cheerios Posted August 7, 2012 Author Share Posted August 7, 2012 Heres the finished plug straight off the gun Dressed up a wee bit Bumper black touched up 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cheerios Posted August 7, 2012 Author Share Posted August 7, 2012 Righty! now all the excitement of finishing the wide body plug and silencing all the doubters along the way (yea f*%$# you guys haha) it was time to return to the engine side of things, been pretty quite on the 3SGTE conversion yeah? thats because I did a wee bit more study and a few calculations ($$$ x Reliability / Hp) I decided the 3SGTE wasn't going to cut it. I would need to sleeve the block work the head and it would still be a potential grenade, money grenade.. Sooo whats better than a 3SGTE I asked myself... 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cheerios Posted August 14, 2012 Author Share Posted August 14, 2012 I priced up a few turbo 2jzgte engines and the goin price averaged $4000 hmmm research time. I'd heard a few rumours that the naturally aspirated 2jzge shared a few common parts so after a few hours internet study and shit yarns with people I took a punt and went and found a good 120,000km naturally aspirated motor cheap for $300. I striped it down and confirmed the exact same crank and rods as the turbo engine the only difference in the block is that it has no oil return for the turbo and no oil squirter's for the pistons. The oil return is an easy mod and the oil squirter's as well because the block already has the oil galleries and only requires the 6 m8 holes drilled and taped in the crank case then bolt in some squirter's from any toyota engine, easy as!! Even the pistons are of the same material and forming technique as the turbo ones just higher compression... if your really cheeky you could machine them down to lower compression and effectively have a turbo bottom end cheap. I cut the hole a wee bit bigger and started making the engine mounts. Shes sitting well back! Rules allow 305mm moving of the firewall or 5% of the wheel base (120mm) from a line drawn through the front spindles back to the 1st spark plug. I choose the latter as it gave me another 40mm. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cheerios Posted August 14, 2012 Author Share Posted August 14, 2012 Now the next cool thing you will see is how amazingly this lines up for mounting with the given rules and parts I used. Remember the subframe is from a FD3S RX7 Batman, well the rubber joining mounts im using are hard type JZA80 Supra items (I don't believe in hard/solid mounting engines as its hell on the chassis and the engine itself). I had to drill the subframe holes out from 12mm to 14mm, make a 20mm thick spacer to raise them up and in they went then i got some 6mm steel plate and plated the engine and the rubber mount. Then welded a piece of rhs between the two. Check out how well it lines up, no crazy stretch frame mounts here its almost as if it was meant to be! Cool huh! Heres the finished mount next to a factory Toyota Supra one..... Whats going on in the back ground? Mixing up some bog... Yea who can guess what im going to do here lol File action from a hooded bubble goose 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.