KLR250 Posted August 16, 2011 Author Share Posted August 16, 2011 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KLR250 Posted August 16, 2011 Author Share Posted August 16, 2011 As mentioned in a previous post, i had removed the gearbox. Last night i started stripping the engine bay, I love working on this thing, as its in such good condition. Tonight i started degreasing the forward floor pans and tunnell, obviously these have the most muck on them. I decided to use the air compressor and degreasing gun, i turned the pressure up to 100psi, only supposed to have 60psi max, but the extra pressure really moved grease and muck, Tommorrow is the soap wash with scrubbing brush's, should come up really good. Anyone doing this sorta of work, Buy your self toilet brush's, there awsome for this kind of work!! anyway, some boring pics and the pile of stuff i wont be using Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KLR250 Posted August 16, 2011 Author Share Posted August 16, 2011 Epoxy is on and looking nice! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KLR250 Posted August 16, 2011 Author Share Posted August 16, 2011 Got a coat of black down tonight, well the back half of the car anyway, its pretty thin in spots as its only the first coat, but its coming up pretty good i reckon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KLR250 Posted August 16, 2011 Author Share Posted August 16, 2011 Pretty much coming to the end of the underbody painting phase now thank god. Tonight i applied underbody deadner to the wheel archs and the outer floor pans (between the sill and chassis rail) I bought a gun to do this today, $49, worked really well Its so hard taking photo's of black underbodys, you cant seem to get good pictures I will have some engine bay pictures soon all going to plan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KLR250 Posted August 16, 2011 Author Share Posted August 16, 2011 Been busy in the engine bay today, pretty tedious, but im getting there Boxed up the sway bar mount, filled front crossmember holes, and have made some cover plates to cover the uglyness on the front towers. first i made a template from cardboard then i cut the peices out of .8mm sheet this will be welded on and smoothed into the towers, Ive cut access holes to get to the control arm bolts welded crossmember Boxed sway bar mounts. I forgot to take pics of what i did here, basically i welded nuts inside so bolts will hold the sway bar brackets from underneath Ill have a lot more pics tommorrow night, plates will be welded in, Ill have that surface rust blasted off so i can start on some filler and paint Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KLR250 Posted August 16, 2011 Author Share Posted August 16, 2011 More Pictures Im not a very good welder when it comes to this thin stuff, this is about 250 spot welds lol had the wire speed way down, much less to grind this time round heres some pics of the other side pretty much ready for filler I was able to weld the panel right around the strengthening gusset which was good Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KLR250 Posted August 16, 2011 Author Share Posted August 16, 2011 Firewall work today, filled all unwanted holes, next step is to remove the blower fan hump and weld in some sheet. after than i wanted to weld the brake master cylinder reinforcing plate to the firewall and blend it in, much like glenn did to sas01. Im having trouble making a descion on the clutch cable tube that pokes through the firewall, Im using a C9 auto for the most part, but Im considering putting a manual pedal box in so i can swap to T5 for dyno days n such....its so damn ugly though and i feel like cutting it off and welding it up I also cut of those studs that poke through the firewall and welded up the holes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KLR250 Posted August 16, 2011 Author Share Posted August 16, 2011 just removed the heater fan hump. These have three spot welds, Just drill em and hit it and it pops out. then cut out a new peice and welded it in, tricky trying to keep it all flush, still have to go back around it one more time with the mig Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KLR250 Posted August 16, 2011 Author Share Posted August 16, 2011 Okay, nearly finished the drivers side firewall, bit more welding and smoothing and i should be done. I welded up the clutch cable hole, as i figure i can make a nice bolt on bracket like Drew sugested down the road if i want to. The lip is gone! My welding is definatly getting better. In this pic you can also see the handbrake reinforcing plate. Ill weld this to the firewall and run use some stainless buitton head hex bolts here Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KLR250 Posted August 16, 2011 Author Share Posted August 16, 2011 before After Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KLR250 Posted August 16, 2011 Author Share Posted August 16, 2011 And i thought this thing had no rust! yeah right. This weekend gunna be a busy one for me. I havent worked on the car for 2 days. I found rust in the plenum area a little while ago, much to my shock lol, its pretty minor. The plenum looked perfect from the top, it never leaked water or anything, so it came as a bit of a suprise to find rust when i removed the dash. So this weekend involves drilling 100 spot welds and removing the cowl and fixing the rust. Ill take some pic, but the rust on this thing is unusual in that its in the high area on the drivers side. It appears moisture has gotten under the reinforcing plate across the water channel, and create a pinhole, moisture has then gotten inside and sat between the factpory under lay material and the tin, rusting from the inside of the car out, hence the reason i couldnt see any rust from the top. Both air vents are perfect, no rust around them, so it weird. While im in the plenum ill be cutting off the air vent extensions, and welding in blanking plates and smoothing the plenum floor...i really dont know how far ill get this weekend, even if i just get the cowl off and the areas all cleaned up ill be happy. Ill take some happy snaps as i go. Ill be giving the spot weld drill glenn gave me a big workout! I removed the windscreen last night, very easy, i used mig wire, poked it through the seal, and tied a handle on each end of the wire and just cut through the seal, popped it out, and then cleaned up the black crap, which was really easy, as the windscreen is still the factory job beleive it or not. removed the plenum cowl. In some areas the factory had spot welded 3 times in the same area meaning i hade to have 3 shots at it with the drill, real prick that was. heres the rust i have to fix all this is surface rust this should be an easy fix I need some 1mm sheet for the plenum floor, which is a bugger because i never bought any, now all the sheet metal places are closed Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KLR250 Posted August 16, 2011 Author Share Posted August 16, 2011 removed the vent shades, then went around with a dolly and hammer and flattened the lip down in preperation for some sheet metal to be welded in place, then cleaned everything up with the wire wheel, you can get a better view of the rust now as ive removed the reinforcing plate that goes over the water drain Luckily I caught the passenger side in time, just needs cleeaning and rust convertor, metal is still solid Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KLR250 Posted August 16, 2011 Author Share Posted August 16, 2011 Early start today, Trying to get as much as i can done with what i have left of argon, which is bugger all, dont think ill have enough to weld in new rust repair sections, but we will see. Also fired up the heat gun and removed the sound deadner material filled the air vents the worst rust done, got a few minor sections to do Basically i used the peice i cut out as a template, tricky thing here is it bends in two plains, so the best way i found to do it was to tack in the peice at the front, and slowly work my way around, hitting it with the hammer as needed to bend it so it could butt up nicely Nasty Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KLR250 Posted August 16, 2011 Author Share Posted August 16, 2011 welded in another little patch, this seems to be the best way to do it rather than cutting one big section out, as each peice can be shaped to suit where needed instead of trying to duplicate complex curves on one big panel finished off welding the holes left by the old vent and trim inside the car and have been rust converting, ive treated all rust areas 3 times now, metal is starting to look good, will go over it all with the wire wheel again tommorrow. You can seee how the phosphuric acid blackens all the rust areas this is how many spot welds hold in the external plate on the passsenger side Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KLR250 Posted August 16, 2011 Author Share Posted August 16, 2011 not to much to report, waiting for my KBS coating which ill have friday I decided to drill the spot welds and remove the wiper support, as i figured it was a bit of a water/rust trap, I decided ive come this far i might aswell elliminate another possibility of rust. Drill out the welds and removed it, lucky i did, surface rust setting in Stripping the whole lot back to bare metal, as im finding rust under the paint, i definatly dont want this issue again This KBS coating 3 step system comes with its own type of cleaner, rust convertor and coatings, so once i get all this prepped ill do the procedure in here and inside the cowl, i dont think ill have this back together this weekend. If anyone gets a chance, watch the youtube vids on this kbs stuff, Much like por15, goes as hard as powder coat, and doesnt chip or crack, and dries with exposure to moisture, amazing stuff Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KLR250 Posted August 16, 2011 Author Share Posted August 16, 2011 been busy cleaning the metal up still. It all seems pretty boring i know, and it appears im not getting anywhere, but its all hard yakka Paint stripper tonight, then wire wheel and scotch bright, Ill then use this stuff for that pitting and minor surface rust Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KLR250 Posted August 16, 2011 Author Share Posted August 16, 2011 Got my KBS stuff today, Cant wait to apply it all and step ya's through the whole thing, im really keen to see how tough this stuff is, as it apparently goes almost as hard as powder coat. Found a local supplier in traralgon who keep it in stock, preston motors who sell good name auto paint products, they had great things to say also Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KLR250 Posted August 16, 2011 Author Share Posted August 16, 2011 I was supposed to keep you guys in the loop with how i prepped the plenum floor using the KBS products. Unfortunatly i got a little to enthusiastic, and before i knew it i had a coat of the kbs rust seal laid on... heres the first coat, still waiting for the stuff to dry I should be able to recoat in 2 hours. It lays out amazingly smooth, and goes a long way First impressions, the kits awsome, except the busted arse paint brush's supplied leave bristles everywhere, not much of an issue as this will be covered, but handy to know for when i do suspension components. Already the first coat is levelling out. The aqua blast cleaner is really amazing stuff, for something you dilute with water at 1.5-1 its really powerfull! Ill be buying a 4l container of this stuff for sure, as it will be handy on lots of things. The rust blast in all honesty smells like phospuric acid, Its completly clear. It leaves a zinc coating wherever youve used it, and you end up with a white residue with a rainbow like colouring on bare metal areas. According to the instructions you can leave the metal uncoated without paint for up to 30 days. Probably a great thing for when your taking paint down to bare metal, handy to know Ive decided to give a body filler i havent used before a go, its protec evolution, apparently very easy to sand, and pretty good as far as pinholes go Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KLR250 Posted August 16, 2011 Author Share Posted August 16, 2011 not much to report, welded all the internal bracketry back in, and gave it a final coat of 3M rubberised underbody coating just to seal things up really good. I ran out, it needs one more coat, so ill have to wait till tommorrow to finish. I masked things up real good, as this black stuff gets everwhere Im welding the top back on tommorrow i reckon. I cancelled the cowl mods, its just going to take to long, and its a lot trickier than i first thought, ill do it on another build i think. I really need to get back to the engine bay work and get it in primer over the next few weeks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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