azzurro Posted August 20, 2015 Author Share Posted August 20, 2015 Despite the new wagoon, i havnt fogotten about this bad boy either, even tho its out in the rain. All this is a bit of an overdue update of little things. got some nice new tail lights - also painted the scummy bit of alloyw that fills the euro plate holder look at that high potential for electrical conductivity! Also removed and tidied up the number plate and reverse lights using a combo of good bits from my stash and the fitted ones shiny and colourful. painted the cam covers too, these are not so colourful Also got another set of rims, these ones ex-Myte128 - i quite like them! thanks to GuyWithAviators for the schweet pics from last months BF meet Also got my name pulled in a draw at last months Caffine and Classics to go to a filming of a "Hot Rod TV' episode after this weeks C&C. Dont know much about the show TBH its on the way home from this months C&C and they provide lunch and refreshments. yay, winning! 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
azzurro Posted December 6, 2015 Author Share Posted December 6, 2015 Went up to Waihi on an OS cruise for Pizza, and then snuck off out to Te Arai for a surprisingly good surf. Car went quite well, which is good becasue OS Drag Day coming up on December 12. i also took this on the way back from Te Arai to Muriwai, SH16 between Wellsford and Kaukapakapa, then Peak Road to Waimauku is a great drive! Unfortunately is after the really nice twistly bits but cars running well - Camer is jammed in the headrest so the mic is a bit muffled, so turn it up. 6 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
azzurro Posted December 14, 2015 Author Share Posted December 14, 2015 went to OS Drags on saturday, great fun day with plently of variety, and shits and giggles. pics talkies (^pic shamlessly stolen from Niswhale who posted it in the Dragday pics thread ) car ran well, shaved 0.7s off last years times, and was very consistent. Made it to the third round of DYO, but was pipped by Veggie who eventually won - again! 5 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
azzurro Posted August 5, 2016 Author Share Posted August 5, 2016 I havnt updated this since nats! Here are some nats related pics... 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
azzurro Posted August 5, 2016 Author Share Posted August 5, 2016 Drove this poor neglected thing to charge the battery up. Its been pretty wet and wild 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
azzurro Posted December 11, 2016 Author Share Posted December 11, 2016 Drag Day was on this Saturday. //oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/53865-oldschool-christmas-tree-drag-day-mark-4-december-10th-meremere/page-24 Unfortunately the 125 was having some electrical issues (deadish battery/no start) so i didn't do any runs and ended up organizing the staging all day. Great spot to watch from, and lots of banter over the head mics. Those dudes see EVERYTHING. Anyway on the way home it disgraced itself even further with a sudden rear brake lock up on the motorway, and pedal went rock hard. Was hot enough to burn my finger when i touched the caliper. Couple of OSGCs on the way back to town also stopped to see if i was ok, and i ended up a little tipsy by the time the tow turned up, by which time not only had the brake had freed itself up but the car started up and drove onto the truck I suspect either the caliper handbrake mech or something hydraulic up stream of it, as it has sometimes been slow to release when I haven't driven it for a while before (a few pulls on the hand brake loosen it up), but this was the first time it has happened while driving, and the first time i could feel it in the pedal (ie just fine then *on*, and I hadnt even touched the brake!) I pulled the offending caliper off today, nothing obviously untoward, so re greased the slides and boshed it back together. The brakes have been a bit odd lately, and as I already have a brake line kit incoming as the hard lines are getting a bit rusty, I will do a big brake refresh (new master, pads and rotors, and swap out the booster) at the same time. Silly old bugger is getting jealous of the wagon i think. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
azzurro Posted May 7, 2017 Author Share Posted May 7, 2017 Now the 2300 is pretty much done, it can move outside. so the 125 can get some long overdue attention. Since the shameful display on drag day (the brakes incident on the motorway) Its been started and moved around a bit but not driven anywhere. I have been collecting bits for a brake refresh tho. Fronts seem fine so concentrating on the rear. Most of the hoses etc from ladapower.com, hard line set from autoricambi.us and diff seal, pads, discs, regulator and master from fiatparts.co.nz Started with dropping this, oh yeah, the diff pinion seal is leaking too... hard brake lines are definitely grotty and a bit rusty, got a full set to suit a 124 spider cheap from the states - so far so good. bench bleeding the new master with old diff lines worked out very well! I had to replace the hoses with slightly longer ones as the new master has top entry tangs on it instead of side ones like the old one cleaned out the reservoirs and greased the pedal and booster pivots, new master on old booster, new vacuum hose to inlet manifold and one way valve thing. I should probably change out the front hard lines but they are actually fine, as were the rear ones to be fair. Maybe one day... 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post azzurro Posted May 7, 2017 Author Popular Post Share Posted May 7, 2017 new proportioning valve with one new line to the diff flexi (other one is from teh master and thats a hoist job, so nope!) - i slotted the adjustment slot a bit more than factory so it may even have enough rotation to work with the lowered suspension now. You can also see the end of the 'new' (i mean better) hand brake cable from my parts stash featuring intact dust boots and slightly less used new pinion seal in. New Remsa pads and discs, the old discs are ok, but the old pads were very sticky from when i was having caliper leaks ages ago. Id suspect the brake issues were: - sticky pads - master was a bit grogey - maybe old proportioning valve - everything else is nice to do and i may as well since ive got the bits now The blue HEL brake lines i installed a while ago. The calipers dont leak, so Ive theft them well enough alone! Also wanged in some lower rear shackle bushes, these were the only ones that needed replacing, lucky cause i only these ones to use - i got a 10 pack cheap, they fit the 2300 too but it used 4, so 4 still left!. Ended up with quite a pile of old and crusty stuff replaced Nearly ready to go back in, Just need to bleed them now. I have a few other things on the list to do including pondering the following questions: - why does the battery keep going flat? (ignition switch needs rewiring i think) - why do the tyres keep going flat? (time to swap the rims for another set) - why does my Italian car that lives at the beach like to rust? (time to extend the garage) 12 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
azzurro Posted September 4, 2017 Author Share Posted September 4, 2017 So, ive extended the garage, its a shelter station modfied to suit the spot with a tarp instead - the trademe ad under-guesstimated the measurements but the mods i made meanthe van will fit under it and i can still put it up normally with the proper cover in some other place, one day. Not 100% weather proof but 100% better than nothing Anyways, 125 has sat ^there ever since the last update, but i have picked a few scabs, starting from the front: 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
azzurro Posted September 4, 2017 Author Share Posted September 4, 2017 Drivers door never quite fit right and has bubbles in front and rear corners, drivers rear door looks fine* *apart from this, from half way up the flippin window frame. What the hell, i dont even?!? The solution for these two doors are the best of the spares i have, which look pretty good except the door swing stops in the spare doors are the later 'lada' style which is all together better apart from the mods needed to my cars old style pillar mount (or the doors) to make them work together. Probably the doors... Anyway sorting the doors is now at the bottom of the list. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
azzurro Posted September 4, 2017 Author Share Posted September 4, 2017 base of the C pillar where pinholes in a previous repair and not cleaning out the panel seam properly have come back to bite me: 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post azzurro Posted September 4, 2017 Author Popular Post Share Posted September 4, 2017 and the wheel arch, there is was a 6mm factory hole just inboard of the tub seam in the apex of the guard for a plastic fuel line clamp to mount. Good one. I have also been here before, check out the thickness of the wob (thats me!) on the right over my last patches and the paint archaeology on the left inner arch repair patches made, getting a solid non popous base for the needed bog skim to join up the previous patches was more important than getting it perfect nice and slow tack wait, move, tack wait for less warpy, but also more grindy after skim number 42, its like it never happened apart from the offerings of oxide Car is now turned around with much the same to do on the passenger side, aiming for drag day 14 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post azzurro Posted September 10, 2017 Author Popular Post Share Posted September 10, 2017 moar rust :/ started from teh back working my way forward. A lot of bubbles and chips and seam at the base of the C pillar and boot and also boot to valance stripper disced back but no holes, so thats nice, still have to bog it back up again all the same. Anyway thats boring no pics. First holes are in the sill below the rear door, you can just spot a butt weld where i previously replaced the section forward of here: Still nice and solid and clean where i got paint in: This is why you should always do it properly - i tried filling thin spots last time and it doesnt work long term... a bit of CAD and then to the machine shop! And then in lots of time at all, BAM! a bit o primer for appearances sake, tends to catch on fire and contaminate the weld if it gets hot Nice! (this never happens the first go) tack tack tack tack tack tack tack tack tack tack grind then DA, done, and next bit 10 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post azzurro Posted September 10, 2017 Author Popular Post Share Posted September 10, 2017 Skip to the front, same gig: Pick the scab: excise the cancer construct new bits glue bits in remove 90% of glue. Tidied up the bits i could reach inside and painted them, + gobs of seam sealer squished though from the wheel side to hopefully reduce the amount of mud and water that this area collects 12 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post azzurro Posted September 10, 2017 Author Popular Post Share Posted September 10, 2017 back to the middle of this side, i was thinking about how to attack this area while doing the other bits. Annoying design and lots of acute angles bleahhhhhggg oh well, chop chop. You can tell why they always rust here! Right behind the wheel into a tight corner with factory leaks into and around the A pillar. This is was replacement (not new) fender, but i needed to chop a lot out to get at the a pillar properly anyway, and it is sized nicely to the end section of the fender thats not welded. the the 'channel' is actually a hook for the top of the fender as there is no access to weld it, so i could just pull it off once i drilled out some spots where it folds over behind the door recess. I rebuilt this whole area last time, all the rest is still good. looking a the piece from the engine side, the 8mm lip hooks on the channel. Thusly: I put a good bead of seam sealer on both sides before tacking it in, and more on after from under neath. The channel will be filled to just below level with seam sealer too, like the other side (i didnt do this last time) And done. A couple more patches on the front valance to do, then its all filler, no killer 16 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post azzurro Posted September 17, 2017 Author Popular Post Share Posted September 17, 2017 the valance, the last stop on my round the 125 tour of rust. doesnt look toooo bad, i guess? LOL. Dirt and crap from off the front wheel gets into the upper panel from the bumper irons hole and makes its way to the lower section that has no drain holes of any note, so it rod rots out the front of the control arm mount. Top stuff. pretty happy with the patch i made Also let in a later model radiator vent. My car has never had cooling problems even with the 2 litre engine and a radiator that is a decade over due for a recore, but seems silly not to have extra flow - the big holes end up behind the bumper. Also seems silly cutting out solid metal You can seen the cross-member closing-panel all in above as well, double skinned like factory. pick below is from inside, you can see the curve of the valance panel opening by the bumper holes, so dumb. tac tac tac, grind grind tac, tac, grind, etc, pretty stoked with the patch tbh, always seems to comes out better on the bits no one will see! Thats all the rust on the body (till next time!) so i can start layering on the bog now, and start on patching/swapping the doors around 10 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post azzurro Posted July 17, 2019 Author Popular Post Share Posted July 17, 2019 Apart from putting primer on those patches above, nothing has happened with this for nearly two years while ive been playing with the ute and wagon. Both are relatively sorted now, so I have tidied some crap out of the garage and peeked under the car cover and found this: This is after pumping up all the tyres and dropping off the axle stands. Looking forward to pushing it outside and seeing what still needs to be done (probably everything) 13 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post azzurro Posted July 28, 2019 Author Popular Post Share Posted July 28, 2019 Connected the battery and the spark plug leads that i had removed to test something on the ute with, and it fired right up! Hopefully a good sign. Video below is the second start and first drive out of the shed for two years. Went well, but the rear brakes are binding which suuuuuuuuux as this was the last thing i did. Might just need a drive. No road drive due to the 2 of 4 doors missing or not closing and a loose bonnet Good opportunity to hose out the shed too! Somehow it looks even smaller with nothing in it! Made a new metal board rack for the back wall from the old clothesline bars that came in the back of the van, much stronger and can now easily fit 12 instead of 9ish max All the primer spots are areas that i have picked scabs or chopped out rust. None of them look like they have blown out again, so thats nice. Still a few to sort out, including the front passenger door. Front just needs a paint. Both doors on this side need a lot of work or swapping. Engine bay still looks nice (this is after a wash, blast with the air gun and lashings of WD40) Swapped the new welder over to 0.6mm wire (new roller came in - thanks AliExpress!) from the 0.8 i used on the exhaust and turned it right down to melt in a few patches on the front passenger door Goes pretty good, but its tricky to avoid the blow throughs on this old thin steel - i dont think the amps go quite as low as my old one even tho they both say 30A min, i think my old one was 'optimistic' even tho its actually more useful to be able to go lower on thin stuff. I have also (finally) replaced the liner and torch on the old one so i might fire it up and see - i probably should anyway to make sure its ok before selling it (or keeping it!) Happy this is making some progress again. 17 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
azzurro Posted September 1, 2019 Author Share Posted September 1, 2019 spent the last month getting this together and ready to paint. I flippin hate sanding Made the door return real purdy and the front bit Got a new paint gun for the top coat to replace my old one that has started spitting. $18 delivered. Flash as. Tried it out on the shuts So i could put the door on for the first time in a long time So i could notice this, and spend a few more evening sorting that till this weekend BOOM Love the contrast Most of it turned out as good as ive ever done, or could expect for doing it in a dusty garage with the cheapest tools but, i had a new issue ive not had (well, nowhere near as bad) , i got a fair few fisheyes, but all in section that followed one of my passes. Maybe my compressor coughed up a lugie, or maybe the wax and grease hadn't dried right off? . Either way Ill have the repaint that bit for sure, bums. Suggestions to prevent reoccurance? 8 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post azzurro Posted September 15, 2019 Author Popular Post Share Posted September 15, 2019 left that alone for a while, i was in a huff and also busy with other stuff finally gave it a wet sand and filled all the shitty little fisheyes with icing, and put another pretty thinned coat of blue down and it turned out much better pulling off masking tape is the best. then lashings of dinitrol. 12 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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