85_z31 Posted October 15, 2011 Author Share Posted October 15, 2011 Got some mean as Camber plates from the USA, 12mm thick upper plates, heavy duty replaceable bearing and came with nut and spacer so they can be used with the factory strut and spring. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
85_z31 Posted October 18, 2011 Author Share Posted October 18, 2011 Some Nice Stainless Lines Already put one side on and the fit / quality is awesome Mega Heavy Duty Diff mount Made by z31 parts.com in the USA - Polyurethane mount for a GM car, always in compression = stronger than OEM , and the box section acts as a cage so if the polyurethane fails the diff can't hit the road. and I changed out the old grade 4 bolts for high tensile bolts, looks pretty sweet seeing gold on black Justin Neil should have my 2 Way LSD back very soon then its drive shaft Loop time !! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
85_z31 Posted June 7, 2012 Author Share Posted June 7, 2012 after looking at ProZac's 1982 Starion and seeing more sweet 80's oldschool jap turbo's i felt obligated to do an update. Redbull fridge we have at the office Diff looks mint when installed. With diff looking so good i felt the drive shafts need a tidy up with new boots and cv grease. Took me ages to get the DS hoop done for cert but it's functional and can be fitting without going near the drive shaft. Been doing a little inter cooling And converting to Coilover to get better spring rates for such a heavy car As part of doing coilovers i fitted a set of Bump steer spacers for corrected suspension geometry Cut the original spring tit off the rear suspension arms Got some flanges welded on some sleeves to sit up in the body of the car Rebuilt the suspension arm with new wheel bearings, brake lines and poly bushings The silver bit on the rear suspension arms is a coil over upper mount from an A32 cefiro flipped over and located in the rear suspension arm, a spring seat fits into the bearing so that the spring doesn't get into a huge bannana bend like the factory spring does during bump compression This photo is a fairly early mockup of how it works Car is all on the ground now the photo sucks but here is how it looks Not as low as I had hoped, some shorted springs and slightly longer keepers in the front will help, it runs pretty stiff springs and still has heaps of stroke length. I can hopefully drive it this weekend now that i have all the correct High tensile shanked fastners for it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
85_z31 Posted September 8, 2012 Author Share Posted September 8, 2012 Been Super busy since my last post here. Car has come a long way since then Rear suspension has been through a few revisions before selecting the final spring rate & length. Had to chop 20mm from the adjustment perches so they didn't contact under compression travel. rear koni's shortened 50mm and now im nice and low and fully captive. With the rear suspension fitted up i fired up the old girl to find a horrific noise coming from the cambelt, so after a new tensioner stud, tensioner cam belt and loads of adjustments it is now perfect again. Turns out the old tensioner moved and tightened the fuck out of the cam belt and stretched it heaps, so i made this crafty wee hole in the cover so adjustments can be made "toyota style" with a little bung plug that gets removed Fitted up the last of the IC pipework and sectioned the radiator shroud so that the factory viscous fan could be retained. I am personally a fan of viscous fans. I nipped up the bi metal coil so it locks in faster and cools sooner. temp holds even at 80deg which is perfect. I also went through a lot of drama with my front camber. LHS was really negative and RHS was really positive. turns out one suspension arm was from my parts car which is a different model year. Supposed to be the same but they weren't. Got it all sorted and got my wheel alignment for CERT , the rear camber at -2.25 just and only just snuck inside the oem + 0.5 rule, and front camber being adjustable pissed in. Spent ages doing heaps of small jobs for CERT. Wrapped the downpipes, bolted up heat shields , made bracket for clutch line, went for WOF , bled the brakes fixed the broken headlight and filled it up with some fresh 95. Picture is at adjusted ride height, Went for CERT through Wayne Martin last night and i believe i was the last one done on Friday night. Dropped it off yesterday and it went straight through and passed first go. Just need my cert plate and I am all good for road legal spec. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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