Popular Post Roman Posted April 24, 2015 Author Popular Post Share Posted April 24, 2015 Car's now safely back at home, awaiting the next round of pulling it to bits and wondering why I pulled it to bits. Well, this went well. Straight after nats I pulled the engine mounts out, to see if I could tip the engine a bit to fit the dual injector manifold without hitting the bonnet. Looked like this wasnt going to work, so I shut the garage door. went upstairs and had a drink. *7 weeks go by* It sat like this until Tuesday night, when I decided that I am making a poor life decision by not attending a Taupo trackday in 2 days time. So stayed up till 2am getting it back together, then got a wof 4pm Wednesday and hit the road. My previous best lap time was set on a damp track, so I knew I could easily do better. The car had HEAPS of grip! and was super stable through the fast turns that used to feel... unsafe haha. So I was stoked to set a new PB of 1:56.0 buuuutttt my clutch shit the bed after only 5 laps. So there's definitely more left in it, my best lap was pretty shoddy, some sectors I was still actually faster from last time. Combining best sector times from both runs there's an easy 1:54 I reckon. Spent the rest of the day taking some pics which was fun, but a comical series of events means I'm currently on a bus back to Auckland to grab the truck and trailer to head back down and pick it up. At a guess I'd say the clutch lining has demolished itself, but time will tell! Will be a few days yet until I have the car home and can yank the engine back out. 12 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post Roman Posted May 23, 2015 Author Popular Post Share Posted May 23, 2015 I've put the rego on hold for three months, because it'll be a while till I can get the clutch out.In the meantime however, I thought I'd do some work on other bits on the car write a haiku:Registration holdswith more confidence than clutch.Fuck you, stupid carIn super fricken awesome news though , Link decided to make all of their unlockable ECU upgrades free with the lates bout of firmware for the G4+So this means I can now setup knock control, extra datalogging, OBD2 junk, and electronic throttle control if I want. I was looking at buying knock control eventually, so pretty happy with that. So I'll wire up the knock sensor to the proper input now instead of laptop and headphones.I'm super keen on launch control and flat shifting! These were existing features but need a clutch switch wired in.I thought this might be a bit tricky to do, but I had a look under the dash...The clutch pedal has a stopper bolt to limit its travel. The brake pedal has a stopper too, but it's threaded switch instead of a bolt. That has the same thread pitch, woot!So I got another brake switch from a Toyota at Zebra today, just need to screw it in and wire it up. Easy! This in conjunction with traction brackets and the higher rpm limit now, i reckon I might scrub a little time off my PB of 14.3 at the drags. 12 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roman Posted June 1, 2015 Author Share Posted June 1, 2015 I extended the wires on the clutch switch so they are long enough to reach the ECU. Then I pulled the front of my car off, coupe life 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roman Posted June 5, 2015 Author Share Posted June 5, 2015 Things to do... I've still got the factory narrowband oxy sensor in the exhaust manifold, only for sake of preventing an exhaust leak. (left hand side)So I need a nut to weld or screw in, anyone know what the thread pitch is?I guess I can just take the oxy sensor to an engineering shop or whatever. Had this guy lend a helping hand:Just a note on the T3 AE86 castor arms - If I were to do this again I would likely just use standard arms instead with polyurethane bushes.Reason being that these things seem way overkill on weight and size, and also the adjustor part looks to have rusted which is going to make it a pain to adjust later on.Where as the standard castor arms still seemed fine after 30 years on the road or whatever, rather than 10,000kms later looking a bit worse for wear.Very high quality product dont get me wrong - but just not really ideal for my application I dont think. I havent checked the rose joints but I consider them a maintenance item which will likely need replacing at some stage too.Also the Aliexpress 'titanium' heat wrap is actually excellent. It's lasted way better than the fibreglass stuff I've used previously, and it's only having problems where I've been a noob wrapping it.Even when banging it on the side of the car getting the exhaust in or out, it looks to hold up pretty well. Reccomended! It looks rugged using hose clamps all over it, but works better than anything else I've tried and is easily adjustable if you need to rewrap a part or whatever.The goal was to reduce under bonnet temperatures, I havent measured this either way but it seems to have made an improvement to intake manifold temperatures according to the hand-ometer.I have taken both of the front gaurds off, and it is absolutely shit caked in dirt! From some gravel bashing/nats/etc.I wouldnt normally care except for that dirt holds moisture, which means rust of course.Need to dig out the wheel well gaurds if they still fit, or come up with some other solution.Anyone done anything like this before? Not too sure where to start.Annnnddddd another thing I want to fix, is that the wiring comes through the firewall at a really fiddly spot. It's only this way because it's how the factory loom needed to go, which is no longer relevant. I think I'm gonna end up buying the 2.5 meter long look for the LInk, and run the link wiring all the way to the motor.As the other problem that this would fix is the absolute clusterfuck of messy wiring under the dash that I can easily get rid of.It's just been an hour or two of basic spannering and I've got the whole front of the car off, and the motor and gearbox are about ready to come out. Love how easy it is working on this thing!! And as time goes on I find ways to make it better and easier too.Will get the engine crane tomorrow and hopefully have the motor and box apart some time over the weekend. 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roman Posted June 6, 2015 Author Share Posted June 6, 2015 Coupe Echo life! Do you even lift, bro? Oooohhhh, yep that'll do it... Centrifugal clutch conversion! haha. Flywheel still looks good and shold skim up fine! stoked. No idea why engine oil came out of the flywheel bolt holes though! Do they block off a gallery in the crank or something? Bizarre as there were no signs of oil leaking into the bell housing at all. 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roman Posted June 21, 2015 Author Share Posted June 21, 2015 Hi, story time! Holy fuckaluckalucka the K20 motors have got so much more cam duration than a beams motor. And a bit more lift.Apart from that the other specs seem reasonably similar to the M/T Altezza engine (Comparison is against my single VVTI engine)Way smaller throttle body on a K20 which is odd. The big hp builds seem to go for gigantic throttle bodies though and 4" intake pipes. And the age old question, 20v throttles on a beams motor, or standard manifold? The standard intake manifold has 45mm diameter runners. With bell mouths on the end. In a fancy plenum with a big throttle body. Silvertop 20v throttles at the throttle plate are 43mm diameter. Blacktop 20v throttles at the throttle plate are 45mm diameter. buuuutttt a throttle body still has the throttle shaft blocking some cross sectional area when it's open, so it's effective area is more like this:So: (Altezza manifold) 45mm dia no throttle: 1590mm square of cross sectional area (Blacktop 4age) 45mm dia 4mm thick throttle shaft: 1410mm square of cross sectional area (88% area of standard runner) (silvertop 4age) 43mm dia 4mm thick throttle shaft: 1280mm square of cross sectional area (80% area of standard runner) You'd need a 47-48mm throttle body (if it had a 4mm shaft) to get a similar cross sectional area to a standard 45mm standard runner. In other unrelated news also took the yellow car for a bit of a spin to blow the cobwebs out, still going strong!(Or, at least as strong as a 3AU is capable of going haha) 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post Roman Posted July 16, 2015 Author Popular Post Share Posted July 16, 2015 Soooooo with my airbox intake thingy. All is well and good, but when the motor gets to 6000rpm, datalogs show that there is a 3kpa pressure drop at the inlet manifold all the way to 8000rpm. How much is 3kpa? About 0.4psiwhich doesnt sound huge, but when you're working with 14.7psi atmospheric pressure that's about 3% of air (and power?) being lost before it can even get a chance to get to the throttle body.3% of 200hp is 6hp so wouldnt complain about a 'free' gain of half that much if I could halve the pressure drop.So my first thought was, why not go from the current 3" pipe to maybe 4".But then I thought, since I no longer have a MAF, why have any pipe size at all? I could have a bellmouth straight on the throttle body for max flow. Then have a big enclosure to feed it filtered air with minimal pressure drop.This would take up a lot more space than a normal intake though, So the first things first is see if it seems feasible for space.I took a photo of the motor as straight on as I could (If wanting to do this, stand back far and zoom in, to minimise perspective distortion) and drew a rough sketch in Cad to see if theres' about enough space for a bellmouth, some space around it and a panel filter. Seemed okay so I plonked the motor back in and started on some CAD (Cardboard Aided Design) to see how much space I've got: Then roughed something together in cardboard, this is the Rapid Brototyping stage: Then copied the dimensions to CAD: Then made version 2.0: Back to CAD, made it more roundy looking: Then started working on the second half of the airbox.So now I've got a pretty good idea of the maximum available area I can work with to make it any size smaller than this. (It's pretty big and gumby at the moment)At this point, I've got two options - I can keep the intake getting air from the big hole through the wheel well area and down to the front as per previous. Orrrr, there's a 91mm dia hole behind the headlight, I could get air from here and/or here: So time to head to Solidworks and try some stuff in the flow bench thingy.TWO INTAKE ENTER. ONE INTAKE LEAVE.I've set the airbox opening to be a source of atmospheric pressure air. And the throttle body area drawing in 170 grams/sec of air (As per datalogging from a few pages ago...) When I keep the airbox diameter really large, even with shitty bends. It keeps the pressure at 101kpa right to the bellmouth.(This graph shows velocity instead of pressure, but you will just have to take my word for it.)When I try a different (simpler/smaller) design that sucks are through the 91mm entrance hole in the front panel of the car... I lose 0.2kpa straight away.Which isnt much, but it just points towards the idea that bigger is better for everything pre throttle body. (Red is good, yellow is not so good, green is less good, and so on. Read the scale damnit) For experiment's sake I thought I'd see what happens when I run the "Big" airbox entrance on an airbox that's 10 meters long. Despite what you'd think it still stays 101kpa across the whole thing, right to the bellmouth.So it seems to indicate that the length of intake means bugger all compared to diameter. Even throwing some harsh 90 degree bends in there, the cross sectional area is so huge compared to the throttle body that there's effectively zero pressure drop.Aaannnnnnnnnddddd that's as far as I've gotten.But the plan from here is to make a cardboard model of the exact shape that I'd expect to build it.Then put it into CAD, then I've got the options of getting bits lasercut or whatever, to minimise the odds of cutting a finger off trying to build something properly. This whole thing might be a big waste of time and acheive nothing at all, but it's helping keep me sane through winter so that's always a good thing.But, I'm pretty confident in my ability to quantify a change for better or worse now. So even if it's a failure it's a win, because Coupe Life 15 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roman Posted July 18, 2015 Author Share Posted July 18, 2015 So the bellmouth turned up: Good news is that its got a super thin wall thickness, so slots into the tapered part of the TB quite far.So I'll be able to make the airbox a lot smaller than I was first expecting as its a bit tight near the radiator.However the shape of the bellmouth itself isnt overly amazing, it's like its a flat outer part, then a rolled transition to a flat 45 degree section, then a rolled profile to straight pipe. Rather than the ideal shape which is quarter of an ellipse.Not sure if that makes any tangible difference however, but might try find something else similar with the better shape. It's probably this way because it's a zillion times easier to manufacture and no one notices the difference when buying one. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post Roman Posted July 20, 2015 Author Popular Post Share Posted July 20, 2015 MOAR off topic nonsense with no work done on car haha. I thought I'd draw up the throttle body as well, and a proper bell mouth. So including the throttle plate, throttle shaft, bolts, etc.Previously I'd been specifying a mass of air being sucked through and looking at the pressure drop. But if you want to figure out if changing something acheives an increase in mass flow you do the opposite. So I created a pressure drop at the rear of the TB, and adjusted it until the mass flow rate roughly matched what my engine consumes (~150 grams per second is ~6000rpm at WOT)So with a bare throttle body, 1kpa pressure drop = 150 grams per second flowing through it. Notice where the red arrows are, because the air needs to turn the corner its reducing the effective diameter of the pipe. Then with a bellmouth added, drawn to the ideal proportions and same pressure drop. mass flow rate bumps up to ~190 grams per second, easy to see why. Then if I "Half shaft" the throttle body shaft. Bumps up to 203 grams per second. If I rounded the leading edge of the throttle plate (instead of square) and tapered the rear half of the throttle plate to a knife edge, increases to 211 grams per second.None of this potentially means anything because it's just DaveScience but its fun to muck around with and learn about things. Now of course fitting a bell mouth and those other things wont mean my engine sucks in 211 grams/second of air. It just means that it will suck 150 grams of air with a reduced pressure drop. So a higher air pressure around the runners. However it is seeming increasingly feasible to reduce the existing ~3kpa pressure drop by a fair bit. I'm on a maintenance plan of using solidworks only often enough to stay consistently awful. But my understanding of the flow modelling program is improving slightly heh. 10 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post Roman Posted July 26, 2015 Author Popular Post Share Posted July 26, 2015 After making 100s of CAD drawings and cardboard mockups After making Dozens of CAD drawings and cardboard mockups After making about 6 CAD drawings and cardboard mockups, I've got the final shapes for everything. The finalised design shows about 0.1kpa pressure drop across the whole thing when stationary. If moving forward at 100kph it gets positive pressure right to the bellmouth when drawing 170 grams/sec.Notbad.jpgTime will tell if I'll ever see positive pressure at the map sensor though, not holding my breath on that one.I should have some lasercut bits turning up for part of it this week.Then when the car's going again, that's the exciting part! (Posting meaningless graphs about pressure readings while nodding authoritively) 10 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roman Posted August 2, 2015 Author Share Posted August 2, 2015 Parts cutting was a success for the first half, all the bits fit up nicely with a tape test. Now just waiting on getting it tigged together, then figure out some way to hold it up when it's in the car. 7 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post Roman Posted September 26, 2015 Author Popular Post Share Posted September 26, 2015 Since the car's been apart for friggen ages, and had a few big expenses that delayed buying a clutch for quite a while. I decided that it would be an awesome idea to rip the wiring loom out and tidy it up, as well as add a few extra bits. So first things first, holy moley after seperating out all of the circuits and straightening all of the wires (instead of bunched up in the way that suits a FWD celica, which my loom is from) the diameter of my loom has reduced dramatically! Decided to split the loom coming into the engine bay into two, so it's a lot easier to take off. So one half for all of the stuff on top of the motor and everything else down the intake side. So the new loom includes provisions for some extra bits:Clutch switch (For launch control) Brake switch (For cruise control) Cruise control switch A panel of switches for the dash to turn things off and onA second map sensor for datalogging/nerdy purposes E-throttle (this is friggen greedy on inputs and outputs! Got it setup running awesomely though)Knock sensor setup properly (woohoo!)Having the Link output a PWM for the speedo (more accurate than current setup)And some other junk I might have forgotten about, but sweet jesus with all of the extra stuff it's a behemoth of a thing! Takes up my whole lounge floor haha.I finally got a clutch, ended up with a full faced disc Exedy Heavy Duty setup. Hopefully lives up to it's namesake. Been doing the hard yards yesterday and today to get the motor back in with the clutch and gearbox fitted, wiring loom back on... Fired up first pop which was awesome!Still lots to do, (like fit a radiator and the whole front half of the car) but its a great milestone to reach.Just about blasted my eardrums out starting this thing up while the oxy sensor was unplugged! Need to calibrate it before plugging it in, but after 2 days of hard slog to get this far I'm happy to have a break for the rest of the night and get stuck in again tomorrow. Can noooooootttttt wait to drive this thing again! OS drags and summer trackdays just cant get here quick enough 13 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roman Posted October 6, 2015 Author Share Posted October 6, 2015 Been making some slow but steady progress...All of the engine sensors are tested and working fine now, E-throttle is great! I had a bunch of problems trying to get it calibrated, but narrowed it down to a wiring fault and got that resolved.Still working on things like getting the cold start a bit nicer, getting the idle speed sorted and so on. But moving in the right direction.I've started calibrating the knock sensor. Since the knock sensor is closer to one cylinder than the others, that cylinder will give a "louder" signal. So in the ECU software you need to amplify the signal of the far cylinders so they all read evenly.I used the E-throttle idle control to set the idle at a hearty 4000rpm haha.Then looked at the difference in knock sensor levels between cylinders.This motor has the knock sensor located on cylinder number 3, because that's usually the one that will blow up first as it runs the hottest.So cyl number 3 naturally gave the strongest signal and then the others tapered off. With the car running, and looking at the logs I got the signal "about right". Then started a datalog of the motor being held at 4000rpm for a minute or so.To fine tune it from here I pulled the data out into a CSV file and then averaged the results and calculated what the new gain levels for each cylinder will need to be to make them super even.The knock sensor naturally records engine vibration under all circumstances, it can tell when knock happens because knock is a much stronger vibration through the block.So you need to drive the car while it's not knocking and record the signal levels at various rpms to tell the ECU that this is the normal vibration level. Then if it's something like 20% higher than that, it registers it as knock and pulls ignition timing. If it consistently starts knocking on one cylinder first, then I can add an ignition trim to that cylinder to permenantly pull a little bit of timing out as a safety margin.I've taken the car for a bit of a tootle up the road and back, but hesitant to drive it too far without an air filter.Sooooooo my airbox thingy is most of the way there, I just need to figure out how to mount it and what to mount it to. Then one day finish making the other half, haha. will be interesting to see if there's any tangible improvements or whether there's no loss in reverting to a simpler design. But I'm well on track towards making it to the OS drags, and maybe some Hampton trackdays prior to that. 7 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roman Posted October 14, 2015 Author Share Posted October 14, 2015 All sensors tested and seems working well, except for the speedo drive so I'll have to recheck that. Buuuuut good enough to go make some doort noises. Felt great taking the car out for a drive again after so long! Finishing the airbox is in the too hard basket currently so I just fitted the bellmouth and coincidentally had a wide entrance pod filter that fits around the perimeter of that. Results so far... First thing is that the intake is frigging LOUD. as in, need earplugs sort of thing haha.This is the difference in pressure drop (scale is in KPA) between old intake and decent bellmouth with pod filter straight on the TB: Only drops 1kpa now, and only starting at 6500rpm+So should be even better once the proper airbox is on there and getting some cold air! Cant wait to get back to a trackday or to the OS drags! 7 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roman Posted October 18, 2015 Author Share Posted October 18, 2015 Been out driving it a bit, so far so good. One annoying thing though is that the speedo and tacho are inaccurate. As in, if you make them accurate at say 5000rpm / 80kph they become inaccurate as the speed changes. I used a test PWM to plot the changes on both and see if they were close to linear or quite a way off. It looks as though the speedo is reasonably accurate from 80kph onwards but the tacho doesnt have a shit show of accuracy.(The flatter the line is on the graph, the more accurate they are. Sloping line = bad ) I've asked the guys at Link to see if they can add the option of using a calibration table to setup the tacho and speedo instead of just a simple multiplier. Also, a while back Glenn (CelicaRA45) Gave me some suggested settings for ignition timing for a standard engine. I've been too chicken to advance the timing without any form of knock sensing, but I'm almost setup with that now so will smash a bit more timing in.Looking at a graph of the difference there should be a few HP in it by whacking some timing in. Been driving it around a bit more though and it's damn good fun!I've set the E-throttle so that 70% on gas pedal is 50% plate opening...It's now SO much nicer to drive at low load/rpm. So really happy with that.Needs a bunch more kms on the clutch before testing out launch control though 6 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post Roman Posted November 6, 2015 Author Popular Post Share Posted November 6, 2015 Cruise control is working! Haha, this is so cool.If you set a speed, it deviates either way by less than 2kph max. It's a little jerky on the downhill, but I just need to tweak some settings a bit.I've never had cruise control before, so it's a bit of a surreal feeling, especially in a car that's 30 years old. Knock detection is setup and working as well too, this took a bit of fiddling to get right. I set it up so that it could pull out up to 20 degrees of timing if it wanted. With the idea that if at a certain load/rpm point it's pulled out 20 degrees and it's still reporting knock, then it obviously isnt knock! So I could adjust the thresholds up and down. Now I've got it pretty good, added in a bunch of ignition timing as per the reccomended settings but there were a few zones where I had to pull it back a degree or so to avoid knock. My previous best quarter mile time was 14.3 @ 150kph, there's now a few indications that it might reach 150kph in 13.5 seconds which could possibly mean a 1/4 mile time in the high high high 13s. 13.999999 still counts! haha.But it's all a load of shit talk until drag day! Might do 14.5s all day long or throw a rod out the block trying to catch up to KPR hahaha.I went for a run up north and back, currently getting ~7l per 100km while still aiming for a 14.7:1 AFR at cruising. Will try lean it out a bit, and fiddle with cam timing and see if it can get even better.Looking forward to attending a few OS events coming up! Especially the drag day, cant wait. 11 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roman Posted November 27, 2015 Author Share Posted November 27, 2015 Well, two mini-projects which have been dragging on for a while are having some meaningful progress made in last few weeks. Link updated their firmware to allow for staged injection to work how I want it, so I dug out the manifold that Sentra Dave made for me (Big thanks!) and then using limited tools available currently (drill & rivets!) bodged together some crappy mounts for the first half of my airbox thingy. Behold, my disastrous looking rats nest engine bay: The first rule of trying to establish if something makes a difference for better or worse, is to isolate it as the variable, no other changes. But meh, got both of these things sorted at the same time, and that's what I'm planning to run so will just chuck it all together haha. I can switch back to a pod filter when it's all tuned nicely to see if the differences come from the airbox or from the injection. After some tinkering to get the AFRs correct, my fuel map is a very different looking place compared to before.Oh, did someone say "Post some graphs Roman"?This is the comparison of fuel maps, with new setup vs old: interesting to note the peaks and dips by comparison, especially around that mid range area.I'm going to concentrate on adjusting the injector timing around these areas where its showing a big change, because I doubt that I could have lost or made that much extra power... It could be that fuel is spitting back out the top of the runners, so you need to make it "richer" to get the correct AFR. No idea why how it could be so much leaner in that mid range part though, unless I've lost power there or this situation was happening previously and now isnt. Although, the car no longer feels like it runs out of puff at 8100rpm so it could be a mix of that, + bellmouth intake doing its thing to breath easier at the top end.Cant wait for drag day, and also Waipu cruise tomorrow! 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roman Posted December 12, 2015 Author Share Posted December 12, 2015 OS drag day was yesterday, and it was a friggen blast! My wideband shit itself before I finished tuning the staged injection, so bought an upgraded sensor that should last a bit longer (Bosch 4.9 instead of Bosch 4.2) Then had one or two nights to try dial in the fuel for the staged injection and make sure it's all fine. In desperation to be faster than last time, yanked out the passenger and rear seats as well as the belts, and made sure to start the day with a near empty tank of gas to be as light as possible. Unfortunately however throughout the whole day I just couldnt get a clean run off the line at all. The motor was running awesomely, I was ~10kph faster trap speeds than previous, but my best time was still half a second slower haha. (14.8 ) I tried a few tricks to remedy the situation... Turned on launch control and set it at various rpm points, didnt really help. Took a bit of fiddling to get the launch control activation working how I wanted, as sometimes it was coming on while I was trying to do a burnout haha. I was doing 3rd gear burnouts without trouble all day, tried for fourth.... baaaaddd idea haha. Ended up doing a gigantic clutch burnout which stunk out my car for the rest of the day haha. woops. I also Setup an E-throttle map that would limit the throttle body to only opening half way in first gear. Didnt help much.Also tried filling up the gask tank right to the brim, to see if more weight over the rear would help. But I just got slower and slower through the day haha. I guess it's one of those things where you cant fix a physical problem (I need traction brackets!) with electrickery.So I was a bit dissapointed with my times, but I was happy to get a trap speed that indicates its worthy of high 13s if it can get a good launch. Still had a frigging awesome day though, its so cool when you have a really close run against someone. I had a camera setup in the car but the axle tramp was so bad that it was shutting off the camera haha! But here's some footage that survived. 5 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roman Posted December 15, 2015 Author Share Posted December 15, 2015 Just before drag day, I took off my intake manifold and used Engineers Blue a vivid to colour the inside of the runners solid black as far up as I could reach. With the idea of being able to check the spray pattern of the outer injectors, by seeing where it washes away the pen marks. Interestingly near the base of the runners it was all still completely black, which would indicate that fuel isnt really pooling and running down, so much as maybe bouncing off the runner wall and then vaporizing. (this is good!) Cant really take a photo to show it but it looks like something like this must be going on. Next thing to sort out though is try get the fuel temps down, both of my fuel rails end up too hot to touch. One thought is that although the main fuel rail is isolated from the engine block temperature by plastic riser blocks, the bolts that hold them in touch both so will conduct heat into the rail. Otherwise could be that my fuel pump is just pumping the bejeezus out of the fuel and heating it up too much. I'll try adding some insulating washers to the fuel rail first and then go from there.If no luck I might look at options for slowing the pump down or adding a cooler. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roman Posted January 2, 2016 Author Share Posted January 2, 2016 Modelled my fuel lines, rail, hot bolts, fuel flow rates from pump etc etc to see what happens.Looks as though just hot bolts holding the rail on are enough to send fuel temps up and up as the fuel circulates.However adding a cooler with a little airflow through it and problem solved. Soooooooo..... I'll do that at same time I fit an adjustable FPR to get the pressure up a bit higher. Once I've got the fuel temperature and fuel pressure sensors fitted (as well as an adjustable FPR for higher pressure) I can switch over to a different fuel equation type in the ECU that should help keep it more accurate with changing conditions.Not that it's awful currently, but something interesting to learn about. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.