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[Update Sep 2019] turns out there was a wiring link missing on the supply to the resistor block was never there, now car runs better than it ever has in 2 years had a mate looking her over, he says "hey you've not got that jumper #5" makeshift Jumper, which I'll probably never upgrade [Update Aug 2019] Had the second hand Res Block fail while driving to Palmy Meet Have replaced with a brand new unit Now car only runs for 3 or 4 seconds then dies Appears Electrical ie not fuel related Has anyone experianced something like this & got any tips? [SOLVED tl:dr Resistor block failed : but read on to see some steps on problem solving with Electronic ignition in my Hillman Avenger] So drove to work yesterday, Parked all normal (over the Saddle Road) went to go to lunch & hey that's weird Car fires but wont 'run', heaps gas & sounds like its all fine until I return the key to On position, car dies I realise it's fairly basic switching & wires but a little over my head if anyone can dumb it down for a wood worker Started with the Ign switch inspection (thought it was main fault at first as a little wiggle caused the Alt light to blink) then tried a second hand unit with exactly the same results, starts but doesn't run so I'm a bit stumped, checked fuel in line, car runs good with the key in starter position (can rev it a little bit & don't want to wreck starter etc) more pics & Diagrams & maybe I've answered own question with the manual? Ballast resistor? And I'm running Electronic ignition from a later model so other than the chances of the second ign switch having same fault (unlikely) which most obvious Sparky boi have I over looked"? Internal guts of the ign switch are fairly simple too only one contact covering 1/5 > 3/2 1 : to Starter motor 2 : Acc 3 : Dash 5: (labeled it 4 on sticker) is main feed from Battery

Discussion : viewtopic.php?f=18&t=24727 Start way back when I was 17 in '97 bought it off a 'mate' for $1k standard 1300 poo brown with Black vinyl roof Hunt for more powah = 1600 then TC last WOF/rego 98/99'ish couple of radiators blew 2x spider gears thrashin tits off it - sick of that = welded up for fun Rolled in an Auto-X 2007 Salvaging EVERYTHING but bare shell pics : last flight vid : (nearly cried NEARLY!) re-birthed ex T-weir shell with cage (he has more history of it that I have forgot) Pics assembling : Ruanui Rd 1st outing - Bent drivers side front : Otaria Road in car Vid : Pics - bent Pasengers side front : R tried some Italian Solexes which gave grief s***ty running vid : return to Strombergs = 35kw yeti's Dyno 2010 vid : Pics : custom made CNC ACM panel adapters to fit Ramflo's I bought for the solex's (to be reinstalled when I have time/money to pay for a tune) SKIDS : EDIT : (pix and vid's as I find them on my pc's) Discussion : http://www.oldschool.co.nz/phpbb/viewtopic.php?f=18&t=24727 My wood/work shop Spares down at Wilf's have since found at least 2 more to scrounge from

So did a bit more of this on the weekend (Image from last year) and now I have half the forward speeds in the white car, my original 1300 4 speed, which is now behind the 1600 TC 90hp donk options for 5 speeds? other than the usual Sierra type 9 (almost bolt in) http://www.madabout-kitcars.com/kitcar/kb.php?aid=160 wont be needing cert and have an Auto Bell housing ready to go to maybe get something fab'ed up etc W55 over kill or fancy sequential all off the cards but happy to daydream a little here RWD Toyota or something serviceable / future proof MX5 / are becoming unobtainable these days right? or just stick to the tried & tested Costworth cog swapper please discuss