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shaneo

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Posts posted by shaneo

  1. I finally got this back after yet another engine rebuild. It was driving like no other engine that had been built for me so much torque. I was very happy even starting normally for the first time since the EFI set up had been on. I was thinking time to enjoy and just drive it over summer. 

    Went to take it for a drive a week in and it spat the dumby melted two spark plugs dropped an electrode down number 4 cylinder. and yet another xflow stuffed didn't even get 800km out of it. I'm so over xlfows not another cent will be spent on an old engine. 

    The van is lucky its still in my garage after this last melt down it was almost sold as is. 

    The question is now to Zetec or to sell it lot and work on the RS and just have one nice car.

    I don't think the post is worthy of a photo sorry guys.

    • Sad 6
  2. On 25/08/2018 at 11:45, ESKIN8R said:

    Upgrade to the 9" rear drums if you have 8s. You can buy new capri vented discs easy enough and add a spacer kit to the original callipers, or I have seen all new original style callipers made to suite vented discs from the likes of motorsport tools. 

    This should be all you will need and more cost effective . I have put a MK1 master straight onto the fire wall and removed my booster  but they are very hard to find , I also run Freddo brake pads there are so many after market part available from the UK 

  3. 13 hours ago, ajg193 said:

    A few things:

     

    Make sure your wiring is completely sorted and up to best practice standard before dyno tuning. A lot of reputable dyno tuners won't even touch a car if they didn't do the wiring themselves, which is actually fair enough.

    A dyno tune isn't generally going to sort out the little niggly things like cold starting on a humid day or leaning out when you're sitting at traffic lights or hot starting the engine. The niggly issues take a long time to tune (blend factors, correction tables etc) and each time you change something you will need to pretty much retune the whole fuel map, making the dyno worthless.

    Have you flow tested your injectors in order to characterise them?

     

    What you really want to do is get the tune as stable as possible (so it always runs the same, regardless of engine temperature or weather) and then get a final dyno tune done to optimise the spark and injection map.

    The tune was very stable before we took it out everything else was sorted but the random problems just drove me nuts EFI should make your car reliable yeah right .Pros and cons said start again .

    I have MX5 injectors 

    I have my fingers crossed for this time around 

    Many thanks for your help 

     

     

  4. 18 hours ago, Roman said:

    Is it all wired up?
    Do you have a Wideband installed?
    If there's a wideband wired in (I'd reccomend this either way) I can tune it for you, or at the very least setup the Modelled fuel parameters properly  before you take it to the dyno.

    (So some numpty doesnt tune it on traditional fuel model which sucks.)

    If you can pull the ignition table from your Megasquirt setup then it's 100% piece of cake to translate to the Link, no dyno tuning required.

    Anything under say 300hp is pretty easy to road tune in a few hours.
    The most crucial part though is the initial setup, not just punching numbers into the fuel and ign tables.

    Hi , 

     

    Wiring should be finished today or tomorrow and yes it has a Wideband fitted 

    The mega squirt has been pulled out already I had such a shitty time with it . I just went rip that shit out then the problems could be seen . I had paid someone to fit and it looked like a  home handy man had had a hack at it .It was joined into old wiring loom in more than a few places . I almost gave up

     

    I will pm you 

     

    • Like 1
  5. My little Escort Van had a mega squirt in for the EFI it but after problem after problem after problem. I have given up and bought a Link Monsoon but now I need another dyno tune can anyone refer a good place around Penrose Mt wellington area or east Auckland 

     

    Any help would be great I found a guy but he has 6-8 weeks waiting list and I have a gumboot rally on the 9/9/18 

    • Like 1
  6. Been working away on this almost running is very different from when I first got it much work has been done over the last couple of years should be all legal and back to daily at Easter

     Some photos of the changes up and running EFI working well but hard to start 

     

    IMG_0776.thumb.JPG.fab5c65718d16b648293abe320332e28.JPG

    Some new wheels arrived but due to the adjustable A arms and other mods to the front the off set doesn't work . Next problem was the 105 speed headers yet again . I thought I would try one more time but they failed . But the life it had with them on was a large difference 

    5aac2c86868c1_IMG_0798(1).thumb.JPG.07fb2b80516f9da9f1c5313b54bf7216.JPG

    So back to the drawing board what to do and I will work on catching this up to where it is up to so much has been done 

    • Like 1
  7. I had this problem in my old  escort sport almost every second month . I started by doubling up the middle one gasket gue every thing new bolts the lot. In the end I took a gasket set to a gasket making place and got them made from 2mm brass cost me $80 around 5 years ago I still have them and have never had it leak since no gasket gue required every again 

     

    Sorry might be copper cant remember any more 

    • Like 1
  8. The more power you put in the more parts you have to replace. I would go piston. Once you pass the 200hp mark the stress on the car is large as even the high power  escort sport only came from factory with 84hp at the fly wheel. My current set is running 120 rwhp but I have to keep making it stronger and better . All depends on how much you want to spend . And finding a good 40 year old car is getting harder and harder now days 

     

    • Like 2
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