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Posts posted by Jo_Rolla
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Took it for a drive today and the exhaust is a lot better. Can have a conversation at 2500 rpm and it's still nice and loud WOT.
Swapped the choke from a 26/27 to 25/27 and it feels more responsive at lower rpm.
Is it odd that this piece only has 1 hole? I don't really under stand the intricacies of a carburettor. But my donor carb has 2 holes.
In my infinite wisdom I purchased some dashboard carpet from the USA and forgot they drive on the otherside of the road .
Nothing my textile skills from 4th form can't handle
Will have a go at stitching it up tomorrow. Should come out alright.
Managed to pickup a din slot. It's originally from a slant front I think. Trying to think up a good way to fill the space above it? If anyone has an original radio interior piece I would be keen I've got an original blank lying around somewhere.
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This photo makes the tip look very much on the piss. But I swear it looks good. My welds how ever do not.
Currently if I load up the back with people the exhaust hits on one of the diff mounts so will have a go at shifting it slightly more to the left.
Also need to look at some higher spring rates in the rear as these standard cobras sit on the bump stops with about 50 kilos in the back
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Scored a decent motherlode of bits and bobs. A chunk of it is for a 2 door/ slant front so if anyone spots any pieces they're after give me a bell and I'll let you know if I'm keeping it or we can sort something out.
Got some advice on tweaking my exhaust and have started having a go at that. The outfit that welded on the dumpy really went HAM with the welds pain in the ass to get it flat.
Picked myself up a new toy. now i just need to learn how to weld
not a bad length
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Is a 1 metre tip too long?
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Car is looking amazing. Got any details on the brake upgrade? I've been looking for one that will still fit 13s. How much did it push your offset out?
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Weber 28/36 DCD 23
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7 hours ago, Jo_Rolla said:
Sweet will give that a try.
Anyone know the best go to place to get short pieces of tube? Auckland, North Shore
Steel North Shore quoted some 2 inch 1.2mm mild steel tube for about $17 a metre which seems pretty fair. Will have a go at this when I've got some time
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Sweet will give that a try.
Anyone know the best go to place to get short pieces of tube? Auckland, North Shore
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back in 2019 I managed to score an unmolested 28/32 DCD 23 for a 1500 Cortina. Put it on and it actually runs pretty well. Lacks power down low but otherwise seems decent and have been driving it semi often with this.
also picked up a new daily
been passing wofs with little to no work which im pretty happy about. been told the seatbelts are on the way out so im on a hunt for some.
Has a nice crank bearing leak which is slowing rust protecting my engine bay which will need some attention soon.
Otherwise I've committed slightly to a repower and have been collecting the bits required to get it in.
will give it a refresh with rings, bearings, valve seals before it goes back togeather
came with a K50 with a bell housing to fit an A. grabbed a remote thermostat housing from pick a part. and picked up a 200mm flywheel to marry up a 190mm K clutch with a 4a pressure plate
doors are all starting to show their age with some nice rust bubbles so i've picked up some new toys and will have a go at rust repairing and painting them myself.
Bonus mini pickup spotted in a friends dads garage
discussion link is in my signature
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fair point lol
KP62, 5k With extractors
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8 hours ago, Dell'orto said:
Most likely will be a 5K if they've ground the engine code off though
Haha true. I was thinking it was ground off for a dodgy sale but maybe a dodgy WoF makes more sense
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3 hours ago, ajg193 said:
Does it have lugs on the #1/#4 spark plug tubes?
I think all 5Ks had them, while only twin squish 4Ks had them. They also run the long spark plugs (but so do the twin squish 4K). Either way they would probably be about the same power.
As the tappets are adjustable then it is a solid lifter engine. But people could have swapped the gear over in the past.
If it actually came out of a liteace it will be a 5K. EDIT: Liteace also came with 4K
Another edit: As above, it's probably almost impossible to tell from the outside. Just whip the head off, get it ported, throw a good cam in and make a fast engine.
Doesn't look like it has the lugs? Sorry for the crappy picture. Not home at the moment.
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I need to drop the sump off for a new seal at some point. Could I measure the width of the bore from below? It's definitely a 4k/5k as it has the sump with 20 odd bolts vs 18.
Could I pull a pushrod out and see if it's hydraulic? I also read somewhere adjustable tappets means it's a solid lifter. But still not conclusive.
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Hey guys, what's the easiest surefire way to identify a 5k? There's no engine block number. It came out of a Liteace. I read somewhere a 5k block has more ridges on the manifold side. Has anyone got a picture?
Here's a couple Photos
Trying to tune a carb but wanna make sure I'm dealing with a 1500 vs a 1300.
Thanks in advance
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Hey guys, sorry if this has been asked.
Just had my starlet fail a WoF for the RCAs under the struts, which have been fitted for 5 or so years. They're Techno Toy Tuning. Anyone had any experience with this? Am I able to get something from a cert guy without paying mega bucks?
I found this:Pdf
I'm currently removing them to go for a recheck.
Cheers
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Lifes been slow again. Got the starlet another clean sheet wof () Drove it on and off for about 10 months. Put a new sub in it.
Had some bad luck on the motorway .
Had to do some pickapart scrounges
Got it sorted. water pump decided it was time to go as well, only 50000ks on it, went genuine this time.
Coming up on 7 years with the old girl.
KP needs a WoF, front wheel bearing and discs skimmed. So naturally I went and bought a weber 28/36 DCD for it instead .
Jimmied up my own throttle cable bracket and repurposed the Aisan carb linkage. Works well .
Struggling to get the tune right. Took out all the jets and got the numbers. They dont seem to quite line up with the original values for the 28/36 DCD. From what I Googled these numbers should be okay for a 5k.
Had a go at it today, seem to be stable with about 2 and a half winds out on the mixture screw, decent idle with the idle screw backed right off, reved out nicely. Took it for a drive and worked well but after about 100metres wouldnt idle any more. and wouldnt start without some throttle.
Any help/direction on my carb/jets would be appreciated.
Joel.
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It's the clutch release bearing!
Thanks for the response, I started poking around the intake to listen for a vaccum leaked and realised the sound was towards the back of the engine and not around the front.
Quick push of the clutch revealed it.
Cheers for the help.
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Hey guys,
I've got a 5k in my starlet that's started to have a high pitch whine.
Tends to disappear at higher revs.
Initially I thought maybe the water pump bearing or alternator.
But I disconnected the belt and it's still has a whine.Any ideas? Would it be one of the crank bearings? Tensioner?
I can upload a video if it would help.Cheers for having a look.
Joel. -
Been taking it out for a few spins around Auckland
Finally got around to installing the new fender mirrors and some much nicer tail lights i've had sitting around for ages. I only had one of the correct bases for the mirrors, so I went without. I may try and create a 3d model of the one i have and mirror when I get some time.
I like these fenders a look more.
Much cleaner!
Scored myself a little workbench, perfect for the 3D printer.
Got one of the new wheels on. not sure how i feel about them. Too much rubber for sure. thoughts?
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raise it, don't rotor it?
Jo_Rolla's 1983 KP62 Toyota Starlet
in Projects and Build Ups
Posted
Finally decided to pull the head off. And make sure it's a 5K.
80mm bore. 156mm pushrods and solid lifters. Dished pistons. Good news all round.
Next move. New cam. Recommendations? I assume as it's a solid lifters I just get 3k/4k grind? It's got a bit of surface rust bust hopefully the cam place can sort this.
I've always suspected I had a bit of an exhaust/intake leak. Some Muppet (being me) put my intake gasket over the original gasket .
Will wait for this cam to be sorted then replace the main crank seal in the process.
Bonus wheel shot. Scored these from @Taistorm just waiting on some wheel nuts.