ta63-1uzze

is it a write of anyone know yet? I had no idea they came out with irs end too. think I want one more than ever now

tig is great for control and mig is also great each are great which is why I have both, each has there plus's but all I really have to say is "weldingtipsandtricks.com " has helped so much , I've watched some videos so many times,

yeah I need 15 for the my centres , so far just 4 to 5 inch wide. I was worried about shipping because if they ping my for tax and shipping it will probably work out more then if I just buy them locally , remember there is 8 to buy at least 150 to 200 bucks each. so tax will be fuck loads.

update, white horse industries , actually very well priced, unknown as to weather or not they are polished etc 15 x 4 = $125 each 14x4.5 =$130 each 15x5.5 =$140 each this is Au $,which is good at the moment verses NZ$ , but then its plus shipping, and tax, so could end up cheaper. but probably not .

yup , sir cletus has posted this lovely bit of information . have had a good read of it, lots of information to sift through .

14.7 is about the maximum you want to push it to should be allot less at low loads , is the battery good and charged fully ? its odd that after the voltage sens wire was reconnected that it didn't drop down to a more acceptable voltage. , starting to get to dangerous point where batteries start to explode. surly getting a 5mm plate tapping a couple threads in it, and welding it to the front of the plenum would solve the issue ? could even make it thinner and weld some studs to said plate if its really that cramp for space ? heaps of boys here have the skills to help if access to welder and plate isn't easily accessible to you ??

yeah I think so , I have been asking about 4 inch wide and 5.5 inch wide . its like 10 bucks difference between the 4 and the 5.5 . also this is per lip. so double it for each wheel for your inners and outers so a full let will be around the 2000 /2200 mark including gst and freight roughly

ok just for an up date, arrow want 15 inch halves $210 .with the precaution of inspecting my centres before hand , if he is happy with the quality of the build then ok to buy 41 degrees wheels wants $195 each half + 40 for powder coating or polishing each , and a cost of 20 for shipping up from well to Auckland. white horse industries, yet to reply . I am probably going to try and use arrow as they are in Auckland, as this makes my life easy if I need to actually go in and speak to someone. if anyone else have any leads to halves please let me know , I don't mind doing the shopping around : )

choice i have sent them a email too, where are the located?? damn they have some sexy wheels, loving the extra deep dish work equips 01s , mmmmmm

as normal cletus you have shone through with some very helpful information, thank you for that, i will be pricing up the halves and once i have a game plan i will get a email away to Justin to make sure my plan is acceptable . thank you sr1600 , i have just sent them a email via Facebook, hopefully they can beat the quote i have from arrow wheels, not sure, i believe them to be an of the shelf item depending on the actual offset you require. my plan is to mill down some welded wheels, extract the center, mill it so its all tidy, grind it with the procession surface grinder to get it back to super lushness . then throw some halves at it with nice new bolts and that should be me all done and dusted.

Ah phone fail,was mentioned to say, use the correct throttle body and sensors,

I haven't had the time to completely read everything. Just a quick scroll , but what about making a adapter plate and just the video correct throttle body? Nice and simple. And if done well will look good too. No magic box required?

Thank you, and no I take on offense at all, I have just read that and would you think that 2.3 (1) b , would be sufficient enough to cover modifying an already existing wheel? I plan to modify an already existing center to fit the offsets I desire, any machining work would be done on a cnc machine , so would be done to a high standard off workmanship and accuracy . I wonder what would need to be inspected or tested to continue with this plan ?

I think you are thinking about it a little bit wrong, it's all done via scale from .5 to 4.5 . Anything out side of that is how the computer sees and recognizes a fault , so tickling it up at lower loads would make it over compensate at higher loads or openings making it go above the threshold and into fault. Is there something a little more precise that you are talking about, what is the issue that you are trying to get around? Can I ask why you want a bigger throttle body? Do you believe it's a restriction at the moment? I am intrigued as to where this is going, throttle bodies are definitely a volumetric designed device and unless you have substantially increased the air induction of the engine there is not allot of good that comes from increasing its size

So have been looking around and haven't had too much luck . Can people please inform me of the various places that sell new rim halves. I am looking at making my own custom set of rims with offsets to fit my car with flairs so they will be quite negative offset. So far the only place I have found is arrow wheels. And although they have been somewhat helpfull I think it always pays to shop Ideally I would prefer shops in Auckland or at least the North Island. Thanks guys , look forward to options , opinions, recommendations .

yup good thinking my friend, is quite hard to see via pictures, but the radiator is lower then the top outlet . so its kind of an issue, but Toyota have put a cooling system bleed on top of the thermostat housing to fix this issue. but luckily i have a vacuum bleeder which make life very easy. : ) the only reason i made the plates is because the suspension isn't on the correct angles already, and i have to re drill the tower so as far as certification process goes if you modify any structural point you have to reinforce it to keep its strength, so i thought that if i am reinforcing it i may as well try and add some more adaptability in there just because i am already changing it. it was never a plan to do this, its just cause they aren't made for the pcd my strut towers came with from factory. i may not end up welding them in, its just an idea at this stage .

well, been hard at it again, have made a small amount of progress. i have taken allot of time away from the sump modifications , i have been battling with learning solid works and trying to get other small jobs done at the same time, so i decided to just get some of the little things done and come back to the sump when i have completed the little jobs, so firstly i decided to tackle the radiator modifications, i have been putting this of because i had never welded alloy before and the general consensus was that its a bitch , really had skill to learn and all that . but after i spent a day or too just getting the setting right i found that its actually very easy and bloody fast to weld aluminium. i even prefer to weld it now that i have spent a bit of time doing it , i find its very nice to weld almost like it flows differently . so here is the shots that explains everything. these are the setting i ended up with for welding alloy, i struggled to make it work at the beginning, and this is were i ended up at. hopefully this may help someone out there in internet land : ) next bit was to do the fans, unfortunately the fans i got were kind of oddly made, and if you didn't support the face of the fan the mount would fall out of the back. very shit idea, badly though out, pissed me off . because now i had to make some kind of lip for it to sit onto rather than just being able to weld some tabs onto the car and tap some holes. so had to completely re design how i had planned on mounting the fans. i eventually ended up with this well i wasn't happy with the original coil overs i had made i felt that although they worked and would have been ok, that i did actually want the benefits of camber plates and adjustable shock inserts so i bought some bc coil overs , i forgot to take the finished pictures of my suspension, but the tubes are away getting crack tested. so when they come back i will add a picture. now they don't fit my car correctly so i made these plates to weld in so i can also have adjustable caster too , i have yet to speak to my cert guy to see if they are acceptable so i wont weld then just yet. not much more left to make, mainly the sump and high pressure power steering hose. soon it will be time for the strip and paint. oh and i have a sneaky plan to make some custom wheels , so that will be very interesting, hopefully that will work out well for me as i don't want to spend 5 grand on wheels . . . that will be next after my custom sump is done : )

oh dam i didn't see this before,. thanks cletus that is great nice and simple . cant fuck that up : ) thanks to everyone, now i can go blaze a weld . yay, : ) its been a long time since the carina has been on the floor (pun) hahaha

hey you sound like you know him, can i pm you with my phone number perhaps you could pass it along, would rather help out a oldschool member with a cash job then some companies i don't really know .

have pmd him, but me being an impatient bastard and havent heard back so i posted up this question, awesome i will call them tomorrow see if they can sort it out for me. also is there any specific paper work that is tied into this, i know the government loves paper work so i am assuming i there a form that co insides with this process ?? any other places that people have delt with that are good??

hey guys, I am in east Auckland, I am looking to get some struts tested so they are all done and ready when I eventually get certification . so who is close, what sort of price am I looking at to get 2 front struts tested. (bc coil overs) and on a final question, do I heed to have "xyz" amount of plug welds, at any specific size ? I haven't been able to find out any particulars regarding this question in the hobby car manual but I have seen that most people add a couple. I just want to get it right so I don't have to do it twice because I missed out one weld or anything silly like that . thanks

yeah I've used the craig davis one before, the one you hang in the hose i thought it was rubbish, and for the price you pay i felt almost ripped off that it didn't work that well . that is what made me go the other route with a thermistor out of a catalog, and because of the urgency needed i had to do the nut on a pipe idea as i needed my car to drive me to work the next day but a thought occurred to me last night that if you are trying to hide all the wiring then you could put it in the radiator its self , that way all the fan and fan wiring etc all could be neatly wired and run out of sight at the bottom. but since you speak of it almost being finished . . . i am interested in how you are tripping it with the use of the temp gauge if you don't mind me asking how have you gone about it??

get a thermistor from Trident catalog, they have temp ratings in the book. weld a nut to some stainless pipe, insert into you radiator hoes with new thermistor , run that shit to a relay and bam you now have auto fans, the trident book has so great options , so you can set it up to have a fail safe switch system if you want to muck around enough . i ran mine with a duel circuit relay.something with opposite polled circuits so if the temp got up the thermistor would turn the fan on, or if the thermistor or any other part of the circuit failed it would earth out the the other side of the relay and the fans would run continuously with the key on . for the thermistor i boiled the thermostat to find out it opening temp , then added 10 degrees that worked out well enough for finding the right temp thermistor was about 97 degrees from memory, i tried one at 108 but that was too hot i think and it didn't have a chance to bring it down fast enough. the fans wouldn't come on in normal traffic or any normal operating conditions , but if you were to start baking up the tires for a few mins , they would come on at about 3 quarters high on the temp gauge, this gave it enough time for the fans to do there job and bring it back down. it all was actually very easy to make and wire up. this was one of the very first modifications i ever did . the trident catalog has many different options even from multiple configuration pins and circuits to even multiple temperature switching and they are bloody cheap to buy. your engine bay is very tidy , and i know its kind of crude fitting it into the top hose , maybe if you have a big enough tap or even throw it on a machine and thread mill your thermostat housing, that could be a nice and tidy option for housing the sensor ?

yeah i mucked around with mine today and it has full power at the pedal , the knob is redundant when the pedal is plugged in . i have had a look at a friends machine this morning when i was trying to diagnose my issues, and its got a dial on the pedal its self (from factory), i may look at fitting one to my pedal later on if i find it annoying having full power but at this stage its not been a huge issue

yay got some success tonight,. I went over all the basic shit again, and I thought what have I changed since trying this pulse setting annnnnnnnnnnd , dud tungsten . got a fresh tungsten and wham problem has gone, go figure ay . finally, it only took the whole day to figure this shit out. so tomorrow I will be getting in some hours. this shit is exhausting but I am so freeking happy that its not the machine !