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burrowssj

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Everything posted by burrowssj

  1. nope not sure, it was for pre 90s cars so assumed it would be fine. I just noticed the fluid was running on the low side an have topped it up but haven't driven it to check weither it will reverse or not. my guess is it wont haha. oil use was castrol transmax M says on the bottle any holden pre 1990 and most European cars, shoulda been ok?
  2. Thanks for the reply, is that 500$ for the lot if you did it yourself? or are you saying get the reverse gear rebuilt for 500? I recently have done the oil in the box as well, the old stuff looked very suspect an was thick an BLACK like diesel oil perhaps even dirtier. either it hadn't been changed in 10years or someone put engine oil in it. I will look into antislip treatment ALSO* is it possible using the wrong automatic transmission oil could make it slip?
  3. Hi everyone good day to you all, I have a couple questions today regarding auto transmissions (which I know nothing about) My reverse gear seems to have given up all but completely. I put it in reverse an sometimes it will have enough guts to move up my slightly uphill driveway but tonight it just gave up, with it in gear I couldn't even push the POS!!! out the driveway(sorry I was planning on going out tonight an now im really frustrated/demoralized). The Drive works very well an always goes in with abit of a clunk, but changes smoothly and have never had any issues with it at all. What sort of repair is this to fix the reverse gear? Does anyone mechanically minded know approximately how much this could cost me(say best case an worst case scenario) Is it going to be in a 1000's? I imagine finding a good condition auto for it would be hard The other possibility is to convert it to a manual, I would rather keep it original and auto and I definitely don't want a floor change (I didn't buy this car for speed) So it would have to be a column change manual. Which means new box/mounts levers rods steering surround an probably more? What do you guys think? I really have a limited knowledge of gearboxs esp automatic ones Oh an its a 1600super crossflow cortina automatic, mk2 benchseat column change
  4. ive done a couple wrxs in my time, easy as once you know the process.you say its single but just in case heres simple way.FIRSTLY you need a small socket set with extensions.remove air box an half of piping(you can do this without removing the box but for 5bolts its easier just to remove it), remove water spray bottle, coil bolts only need to be unthreaded by about 10-15mm an then you can pull off.undo sparks.put in new sparks an tighten to required torque.reverse everything else i said. You shouldn't ever need to take battery out(i never did/have) it would how ever make things easier for you. the biggest problem I had was that the extension I had for socket was the perfect size to get jammed up on the chassis rails apart form that its pretty straight forward remove everything in way, put back together.make sure theres no intake pipes leaking or not on correctly as it will cause problems with boost also should state thats on the older styled 90degree bend turbo subarus. so wrxs upto v2 an the early legacys , might be slight changes on newer ones but its really not hard at all. I honestly Don't know why everyone makes a big fuss over these engines being SOOOOO hard to work on, bunch of whiners IMO, I mean sure its not gona be a simple ford escort change but its really not hard an if it takes you over an hour you need to smarten up or its your first time haha also yes to getting good plugs, its a job you don't wana be doing every 6months an suby wll chew threw cheap plugs fairly quick
  5. If I cant buy one tomorrow il give you a PM could be very handy
  6. ok thanks for the tips ive got 2 batteries charging up right now, an il test out your methods as soon as they are charged. I will also buy a multimeter tomorrow.(what do I need to test here? battery voltage an the generator voltage?) I had quite a decent one but left it in the garage an it is fallen victim to the liquefaction. I also have been following the manual on all my generator work. I was sure I did it right but the generator light still comes on BUT it does go away under heavy acceleration which I tend to avoid but thought it was worth mentioning. I was thinking I might rewire the leads to the coil an starter relay as the wires look to have seen better days an it would definitely not be a bad thing to do, I also happen to have a roll of some very nice 2mm cable to make sure nothing shorts out il chuck some tape over any exposed spade terminals Thanks again Sam
  7. its a brandnew century battery an it cost 145$ an has a 24month warranty. I have taken it out for charging now. Might have to take it to an auto sparky to get them to have a look over the car. I have no after market things on this car at all. its completely factory 1600 crossflow cortina, I didn't think there was anything that could drain the battery on the factory setup which is why ive asked. Would a slowly failing coil make it hard to crank over? I find even with a full charged battery it seems to struggle to turn over an often does the old buzzing noise(almost as if the starter slips)
  8. It has a generator an It wasn't charging so I replaced the brushes and cleaned but that didn't do anything. Even if its not charging it should still hold its charge longer than a week and considering its brandnew as well.... Nah unfortunately I dont have a multimeter to check it out with(was damaged in earthquakes) I am just wondering if there is anything on those old crossflow engines that will drain the charge?. It wasn't flat last sat when I was using it an started up easily but now its almost dead flat
  9. I have an old 1970 mk2 cortina which has being constantly flattening my batteries. I went out an brought a new battery last saturday, it started fine for the small trip I did to the other side of town. and then fine on the way back (all daytime during, with the headlights off). I went to start it today an the battery barely has any juice in it... As soon as I put some jumpers on it it will start straight away... I didn't think old cars had anything that could even drain the battery? I dont have a stereo on this car either. What would cause this issue? could it be the relay/coil? it seems very weird
  10. thanks everyone for your replies an information much appreciated, I pulled it apart to check it for leaks it was of course originally in the dash I managed to get it fixed and blowing hot air! was so happy I decided to remove the whole system all together so I could check it for leaks an make sure it wasn't blocked, I think there was abit of gunk in it because when I stuck the hose on it with pressure it flushed more rusty crap out(why do people let old cars get to this state I really don't know) once it was coming out clean I did the same on the heater hoses, I have a feeling the T junction was to blame as I took it off an could visibly see there was rusty gunk all through it, flushed it out with the hose reassembled an it blows nice warm air out now! was totally stoked that it worked an I have a heater for the cold cold chch winters! thanks again all.. now just to sort the other faults of the car haha oh an p.s its a mk2 1600 crossflow automatic CORTINA (autos are shit I know but I love having the bench seat with column change)
  11. hello im kinda new here but I have been reading these forums for a while. I was wondering if someone could shed some light on the heating system in a 1600 crossflow. Basically I flushed the whole cooling system twice an used that repco flush. the water is now nice an clear but the heater still does not work. I assumed a leaking/blocked core so today I ripped it out an put the hose into it an abit more orange filth came out but it doesn't appear to be leaking at all :/ If anyone has a 1600 crossflow with the single throat carb could they describe where the heater hoses go? Il post the pics of how mine goes an hopefully someone can point me in the right direction of whats wrong with it. mine goes waterpump > heatercore heatercore>carb the weird thing about it is that it goes to the carb which has a double hose connector on it with abit of hose thats been blocked with a bolt an clip check out the pics any help would be much appreciated(this is my 2nd old car do up so im no expert)
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