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Rhyscar
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Posts posted by Rhyscar
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Yeah I understand the reason for the complications. All the modern amenities!
Do modern electric cars have electric A/C pumps? Could make it easier to just fit one of those and leave power steering as is?
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Yeah I get what you mean that's very open. So you're looking at changing to a PS rack/to a rack from steering box? Any room under floor?
This is what the rally escort electric power steering kits looks like. I think these are a bit different to Astra ones as have adjustable sensitivity etc.
https://palmside.co.nz/products/power-steering-electric-kit-for-escort?_pos=2&_sid=e7a8f7c89&_ss=r
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I've had issues with merc ones failing on a friends car we installed one in. Went through a few second hand units before buying new/near new. Car doesn't get a lot of use but has been fine for a few years now.
I'm using MR2 in my racecar (un-commissioned as of now)
All the rally cars are going for the electric columns from later model astra's. Apparently they have better feel than the Toyota electrical columns. Both my daily's (2013 Rav & Lexus) have electric steer and yup there's def room for improvement in the feel department, even on the f-sport Lexus.
Electric column is def a bigger job, requires massive mods and welding steering column (unsure how they are getting this past LVVTA in NZ?). Something to consider at least.
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Fuel pump mounting is now done. Put a lot of effort in to make this easy to access, at the lowest point of the tank and eliminate weak points in the sheetmetal. Time will tell if I've done a good job I guess. Still waiting for a few hose tails to turn up to finish the pipework.
Took a while to find the right fittings to do this 180deg turn but these push lock 150deg -8an ones did the trick nicely. Still trying to decide on the best hose clip/clamps to use in the fuel system. I HATE tridon garden hose clips....
Fuel pump mounted. Used captive/welded bolts and nuts so it won't vibrate loose. Also put foam under all the contact surfaces. Fingers crossed it won't make a racket/racquet?
Used a 255lph walboro/TI automotive pump. Was reasonable and will be plenty for a 200hp 2zz. Fuel filter is FG falcon because it fitted mint in the dual pump bracket from Triple X in taranaki, and because you can easily and cheaply source one at any supercheap/repco around the country. Fuel filters are consumables in racecars.
Last gauge arrived from the US of A. Starting to look almost finished in this area apart from some wiring.
Replaced all the steering components with Toyota genuine parts cause reliability and race prep etc.
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Top job on the fitment. I can appreciate a cut-check-cut-check-cut-check-ahfuck-cut process as much as the next man.
CF hood and this whole car looks great! 100% would own (even if it's a mitsi).
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You can buy the dies to do this at home. Might be cheaper than labour and you get to learn something cool. Chances of bonnet being straight afterwards might be low though. Unsure how much of a fine art it is to stop it deforming as you go.
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Just plugs. Look at the previous owner(s) and ask yourself if they'd willingly spend $100 to improve the efficiency and drivability of their car. If the answers no; then the plugs haven't been done for at least 200,000kms.
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On 26/04/2023 at 11:54, GARDRB said:
What are the cert requirements for an inline handbrake? Isn't the idea of a cable handbrake redundancy?
Yeah it’s not that involved when you have a msnz authority card. But general requirement is to have redundancy; which is achieved by the dual braking circuits in the pedal box.
From my reading it sounds like you could do it without an authority card by using a split circuit master cylinder. But I’m guessing it’s a fine line that would need to be discussed with certifier.
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Do they have to be coilovers? You can get Bilstein's made locally (Racelign is one but I'm sure there are other agents) to correct length and valving for equivalent money..
Could be a much better solution than some shitty chinese coilover (which under $4-5k they are all a similar amount of rubbish)
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Sorted the rear tail lights by using vht night shades paint on Levin facelift lights. These are a bit easier to come by than trueno facelift and they look great like this
also fabricated a gurney flap for the rear spoiler. This was pretty challenging but quite enjoyed working the metal to flex in 2 directions. Should help with the aero/diffuser a bit too.
Dans ae101 gtz came to visit for a while. Very cool car
spent some time undercoating the wheel tubs. Also finished up new hardlines throughout the car and new braided Flexi hoses too. Very happy with how it turned out
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There are lots of people out there who are very passionate about this topic and setting them up.
check this out https://www.rdforum.org/threads/92416/
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I 100% recommend Valentine V1. Has saved my license so many times and in my experience is far superior to escort/uniden stuff. Has a great function to filter out all the garbage signals/radar cruise controls. New ones are more advanced/fancier but do take some time to set up properly.
Import yourself from the states using a freight forward service like youpost to save a bit of money on purchase. Just bought one of the newer model for my mum was around $8-900 landed.
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Loving your progress on this. Happy to provide 2gr doorts for motivation. They go REAL good
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On 23/02/2023 at 18:08, Willdat? said:
I like 99% of what you've said except for the EV part. If you have a daily commute of 70km a 30kWh Leaf will smash that for years for ~$12k, less if you buy a toughie. A Tesla or new anything doesn't ever stack up.
Yeah like I said, if there were decent quality evs available for ok money it would be different. Leaf is ok for commuting but that’s about it, not a mid sized car.
Im really lucky that I work from home and travel 2-3days a week for work (get paid for my kms) so no commuting for me on my own wallet.
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Yeah fuel economy on the 2.4's is the downside. Like many have said, not an issue if not using to commute.
I really sympathise with trying to find the right car for normal, everyday working people. My wife and I went round in circles for ages. We found the second hand market from about 10yrs ago is stuffed seemingly as it's when people stopped buying commodore/falcons and started buying silly unpractical utes as their primary family car.Rhyscar's unsolicited car buying advice;
If you want a
reasonably pricedcar to do family, modern, comfyish, reliable, decent fuel economy, tow a decent sized trailer/boat - Buy a diesel Hilux etc for >50kIf you want a reasonably priced car to do family, modern, comfyish, reliable,
decent fuel economy, tow a decent sized trailer/boat - Buy a petrol v6 highlander/Pathfinder for <20kIf you want a reasonably priced car to do family, modern, comfyish but boring, reliable, decent fuel economy, tow a
decentsmall sized trailer/boat - Buy a Rav4 (2L non-4wd better on gas, better engine) or a newer Xtrail/CRV for <20kIf you want a reasonably priced car to do family, modern, comfyish, reliable,
decentmoderate fuel economy, tow adecentsmall sized trailer/boat - Buy a honda accord wagon (touring ones are real nice) <15kIf you want a reasonably priced sedan to do family, modern,
comfyishlush as hell, reliable, decent fuel economy, tow a decent sized trailer/boat - Buy a v6 lexus. KM's don't matter if buying NZ new for <10-15kIf you want a reasonably priced car to do family,
modern, comfyish, reliable-ish,decent fuel economy, tow a decent sized trailer/boat - Buy a BA falcon wagon 200kms or so for <5kSomeone should put that into a graph?
We found the sweet spot with buying cars is find one 8-10yrs old with an ignorant owner (either old or young, never a family), who has hardly used it properly but wants a newer model (whether they can afford it or not). Buying cars is more about who you are buying them off and whether they've thrashed/serviced/paid oil changers or a proper mechanic almost as much as the type of car you're buying.
This is my never-buy modern cars if done more than 80,000kms list;
Any Mitsi, Volvo, VW, Audi, BMW (although I've heard some are reliable, I've had shit experiences), subaru legacy (they aren't as capable as you'd like them to be), Mazda CX5, I'm on the fence with Hyundai Santa Fe's...
Perhaps an unpopular opinion but let's face it, the EV equation just doesn't add up currently. No point taking 15-20yrs to recoup the initial outlay in petrol savings to then have a vehicle thats obselete- may as well keep paying for petrol as net financial gain is zero. Petrol is going to be around for a while still; dictated by the rate of change the world is capable of (or not of!). Perhaps this will change if/when good quality second hand EV's that aren't shit to drive can be had for under 20k?
We ended up with a 2013 Rav4 with 60kms on the clock and a 2012 Lexus with 240kms on. Both NZ new, 1-2owners. Has been trouble free motoring so far, will report back in a few years.
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@fletch yeah towbar will come soon. Good to hear they tow well. Only rated to 1600kg from factory but that’s more than enough to tow my light cars around on a basic trailer.
Most of the newer model are still up round 16-20k. This was owned by a young guy who wanted to be flasher than he could afford and had to get rid of it so I was lucky/a bit of a dick taking advantage.
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On 26/01/2023 at 10:24, sleeektoy said:Lexus models of similar vintage. GS300/350 - super lush spec and same chassis as the markx - als o seem to be creeping down to similar pricing as the markx
+1 or this recommendation. I got this 2012 GS350 F-sport for $10k. 2012 onwards is a massive step up in aesthetics and interior quality. Pretty good value even though has 240k on it. Should go to 400k hopefully
9L/100km on the open road, big brakes and adaptive shocks. All while rolling in sweet heated/cooled leather seats. Welcome to the future!
Worth mentioning look out for crown/mark X/some GS models come with CVT instead of 6/8spd auto. Mainly Hybrid & 4wd versions for GS, all crowns and some Mark X's. I'm sure they're still fine but yeah CVT's generally suck.
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Good to see the bump stops doing their job. Car looks great on the 13's Dave!
Pity about the water pump. Time for external jobbie? or run twin water pumps so if one fails it switches over? lol.
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17 hours ago, Toucan said:
Have you seen Andrews one? It's pretty great
Have messaged you pics
Yeah Andrews one is pretty well done and basic just for hooning around at slow speed. My goal is to build something that we could eventually upgrade get into grass karting (in 5+yrs time). Great inexpensive way for kids to learn about car control and see if they like motorsport. If she loves it we'll likely figure out a way to go down the karting route.
Sam and I have talked about this at length and we don't want to put any pressure on our kids to love motorsport like I do, just give them opportunities I wish I had growing up whether it's motorsport, whitewater kayaking, mountain bikes. These are all sports I wish I had a chance and the confidence to pursue instead of playing dumb ball sports such as rugby/cricket.
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21 hours ago, Willdat? said:
Yeah I've done my share of this. Definitely doable on the electric side with 48V lead acid batteries (for cost reasons) and a brushless motor. 1kW would easy do what you're after, but I'd future proof with something like this kit...
NZ$ 254.73 10%OFF | 1800W 48V Electric Brushless DC Motor Kit High Speed Brushless Motor with 38A Speed Controller & Throttle Pedal & Wire Harness
https://a.aliexpress.com/_mKRdVIKWicked thanks this is exactly what I was looking for! Will add to wish list and start looking for a chassis to chuck it in.
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Is it something like this? https://www.trademe.co.nz/a/motors/specialist-cars/go-karts/listing/3516208834
Would love to know how these things drive the wheels mechanically. Looks to have a diff/spool?
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Yeah definitely. Can you make them go faster?
touge's ae101 racecar - ‘fab it all from scratch’ project
in Other Projects
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im done with getting under the car for a while now thank goodness. Plumbing ticked off the list.