azzurro

this is what i understand, but it may be all balls:

fiat running gear (ie twin cam) is a bolt in (pretty much).

these are based on the 124 series which had coil springs in the rear, same as on 124 Coupe as well, so there is quite alot of aftermarket stuff out there for them. However the susp was designed and set up from factory to ride higher than the fiats due to rough russian roads/snow/fat babushkas so lowering to bumps = not really that low.

Also lowering makes them handle like shit, (moving wishone mounts etc etc required to fix geometry esp if you are looking to go real low) but they do look 100x better.

most lowered 124/210x ive seen use coil springs rather than installing coil overs as the strut top mounts (rather than the OEM spring mounts) would be taking all the suspension stresses and cars weight, and are not that strong as they were never designed for it. On the front, for eg the lower weiht/stresses would all be on the lower shock mounting bolt.

can be done but poss not worth it? You would have to change so much to get them to work properly. Just chuck some one way adjusties at it.

If the coils are 100m ID then toyota estima rear srings will fit - easy to remove from an estima, plenty being wrecked and have a higher spring rate. Niva springs are also an option and come in a range of rates (colour coded)

you will need an internal spring compressor to get the fronts out tho, as they mount on the bottom wishbone, but have the upper wishbone around them :\

swish, was also on my pine/watchlist,

so i thought you might appreciate these

yus!

But will you look at that smug face:

had to get a new exhaust and install windscreen filler strips to obtain the ok, which i was expecting, but otherwise testing garage was very happy/impressed. Car also looks better with the extra window chrome.

New exhaust is 2" from factory headers to a big dogleg muffler (not quite straight though) before the diff and a straight though 'mini cooper' after the diff. Has a 2 1/2 inch tip which has yet to grow on me, but im sort of surprised as its about the same sound as my cobbled together job, if a little more rev happy. Ill take a photo of it soon (before it gets all dirty) as they did a pretty nice job. Only concern is it might be a bit close to the diff.

Have been pottering around in it this weekend + the round trip to town for Wof and back and forwards to sort out screen and exhaust showed there are a few teething issues still to sort out. The car enjoys a spiritied drive and pulls strongly. However, I sense it has more to give.

The to do list

* Wheel alighnment - my eyelighnment seems to be pretty good actually, and car is tight and predictable, new bushes etc probably help alot.

Only issue is that the steering is now very heavy esp when slow, but that will be the new found negative camber, and getting used to rolling just a leetle bit before turning the wheel.

* related issue, need to trim back the steeling column plastics a mm or 2, as the steering wheel boss rubs on it and makes a very disconcerting noise.

* carburettori - the original solex seems to run ok, but there is a strong petrol smell in the engine bay after engine is off and seems to have hot start issues. Bad photo but you can see wetness on the manifold and carb body

There is also hesitation at load but could also be an ignition/electrical/timing issue

Ideal solution is twin 40 sidedrafts, but as ive blown the budget on the exhaust, second best option is a Weber DMS from a 1600 TC 132 which i have already. Only the linkage rotates the opposite way, and requires a fuel return, but i have the correct accellorator linkage from a 132 that will work, and a fuel sender in the tank already with a return from the same car. Will need to run the line tho.

* will reinvestigate ignition coil - am currently running an unballasted coil setup after previously misdiagnosing PO wiring debacles, so i should check that the points are not burning out/causing hesitation etc, and try running with a properly wired up factory system.

* engine developed a worrying metal on metal rattle that increased and decreased in line with revs, and voltometer was very jumpy (13-15V). Traced the rattle to a missing (not loose!) lower alternator nut and 120mm bolt. Alt was held on by top adjustment bolt only. That fixed the rattle.

Voltometer is now less twitchy but still not solid. I have a new solid state external regulator, and the alt was refurbed as well but there are a couple of things that it could be/should do anyway:

* considering also obtaining an AU?? Falcoon alternator as a 95Amp more or less 'boltin' modern upgrade to the 40A extrnally regulated OEM job if i stumble across one at Pick-a-Part.

* Water pump pulley - is installed behind mounting face to obtain correct offset when i conveted to electric fan, but ive never been that happy with it. The front face of the pulley mount boss has a wee hub to centre the pully which isnt present on the rear of the boss AND i had to cut holes for the puller when i removed it once before, which bent it, and so the belt pulley is both not centred on the pump shaft and bent/unbalanced - this is shaking the alternator (hence loss of bolt and rattle + wonkly output?). Its also no good for the water pump. I have a spare pulley that i will get pressed on but with the mount reversed. But this also means removing the radiator...

* Ignition switch is dodgy - wobbling the key has all kinds of bizzare electrical side effects, however adding Relays to the headlights and ignition circuits (which runs all load for these though the switch contacts!) + a clean and fiddle should resolve most problems im thinking. This ignition has a bit of sentimental value as i managed to cut a new key for it myself so id like to keep it (and im cheap).

* Under sill trim clips - still searching and pondering alternatives.

* Clutch/gearbox - seems ok, not slipping but there is a thrust bearing whine in neutral/peadal out, and GB is very grubby/oily. I think also that the driveshaft might be a bit out of balance as the stick is wobbly (increasing with speed) and rear has a bit of a wheel blalce wobble feel at same time. Could be the pillow block or spider i suppose too. Anyway, all To do when engine removed for engine bay tidy up. 5 Speed Bolt in GB suggestions welcomed.

* have a tow bar to clean up and put on for bike racks and a roof rack to pick up and make fit as well. These along with its massive boot will make it an ideal family missioner.

I also had a breakage - the manual throttle control cable (needed when cold or for driving without legs) which is actually a stiff wire, snapped just inside the engine bay at a kink. So what else but #8 wire?

works better than it ever did!

Finally got all the bits needed to finish reassembling the front, (bearings and radius rods)

thought i had been sent the wrong wheel bearings or had odd hubs (woudnt be the first time) but i realised after a wee rage that the outer cases were still well stuck in the hub so no wonder the new ones were 'too big'

as i dont have a good drift and i didnt want to mess up or score the hubs ive cleaned and repacked the originals but used the new nuts that came with the bearing kit, which is all was really needed anyway as the existing bearings are still in good nick.

tis all now complete with the wheels back on, just an 'eyelignment' (have about 10deg toe out at the mo!) and some paint touch ups on the flat at the bottom of the sills that i missed while its on the stands, and a few other chips and so hopefully will be on the road (or at least have a list of what needs doing ) by the weekend, all going well.

Fingers crossed...

Semi related pic to make update not all lame:

i have rims same as those ^^^ that need sandblasting and repainting (and new tyres), which is what ill roll eventually, but this time i dont think ill black out the 'iron cross' bits, much as per this rotten potatoplop:

bahhh!

just realised this is on tomorrow not friday.

there goes my imaginary deadline for woffage (hopefully).

next time fo sho

Meanwhile, have been putting my nice new shiney and competent 'jonnesway' ball joint splitter from BNT to good use after work this week in prep for this long weekend (nice one JC ).

purchase price was 2x stanley one, but has done as many joints as 3x of the other ones, so thats actually (todate) 66% cheaper and 300% better quality in the long run.

have removed all front suspension gubbins, which are now cleaned, sandblasted, repainted and rebushed etc ready to go back in:

everything, except... the upper wishbones which the mechanic next door to the mrs work didnt get onto rebushing before COB thursday

fair enough, he had paying customers who wanted their cars fixed for easter

so ive only got this far with re-assembly:

only the upper wishbones (obviously) and radius arms to go back in and then everything needs to have an eye guage alignment and be tourqued up.

The front radius/castor arms are notoriously hard to remove on these, as they never ever get adjusted/greased or replaced after leaving the factory and the big 24mm nuts on M16 threads just rust togther over time. My radius arm removal method (grind opposite corners off the front nut (= less material to remove, i measured) then cold chisel to split the nut) was appropriate in the end. I refined it on the second one and this ended up being the better condition anyway. They have a steel spacer to protect the thread and prevent the bushes being over tightended and this was rusted solid to the first arm. unfortunately i took the rear nut off on the first one so i will never get a new one back on over the rusted bit without stripping it even if i could wind the bugger on. On the second one i only cut the front nut off, so the rear one can stay where it is. Ill order 2 new ones, but i could get away with just one if thats all that can be sourced.

so, anway had to make 2 new spacers in the mean time, what to do... handle of a busted trolley jack that i knew 'would come in handy one day' perfect ID and OD

ran a file down the inside too, and perhaps saved myself about $8 in parts. result.

however, without the wishbones I cannot complete the task and get it on its wheels again, and i have to order more parts anyway:

- 2x radius arms (hopefully can get some in nz, otherwise will get some drift/hot rod adjustable type ones), and

- 2x front wheel bearing kits for good measure 'while im there'

- and still to get the upper wishbones back with new bushes in (which will need blasting and painting)

so will hopefully be going in for a wof this month some time, fingers crossed, but unlikley to ready in time for next weekend

gots me a nice 'jonesway' ball joint sperator from BNT - just from looking at it its obvious its much better quality, and, have popped all the remaining 6 joints without so much as a scratch on it Was twice the price of the supercheap one but i bet i dont need to take it back three times/ever.

swapped BJ splitter for another - Dude wes not going to not swap it as the receipt was more than a year old, so i made him ring head office and had to unleash the bush lawyer till they did. (Not fit for purpose - what good is a ball joint splitter that cant split ball joints!, besides no wear on the teeth etc - id hardly been thrashing it)

Anyway, managed to pop two out (one literally popped out the garage door!) before both teeth broke off on the third. Fuckers were in there good, but thats what they are designed for right? Was using two hammer trick as well to make it last, but the metal they are made from is yuk - its not hard tool steel (like they should be) but dirty diecast shite that reminds me of when me and my bro used to 'smash-up derby' our Matchbox cars. Cheap chinese slag.

So only 6 more BJ's to go. Sigh.

Will get my $ back tomorrow and order a decent one from BNT i think, unless anyone has another suggestion.

So, I do not reccomend Stanley Tie Rod End Seperators to anyone, thats 3 for about 8 ball joints seperated.

yeah, will try swapping it once more, and do the double hammer trick at the same time, too avoid winding it up too much - ive got 12 to do!

but if it breaks again im getting my $ back for a good one + throwing it though the front window of supercrap.

was hoping to the suspension all out, disassembled and cleaned up ready for rebushing this week, with an eye to making it to nats, but this shitty tool made out of stale bread has put me back a day and a half of under car time --- FUUUUUUUUU!

started the removal process on the front suspension today,

but then on the very first (of 12 ball joints/tie rod ends):

arrrrrrrhhhhhhhhhhgggggg!!!!!!!

lucky ive still got this :

and yep, I need a replacement for my replacement. Stanley tools are not what they used to be (Supercheap ), so I think im going to get my money back on this one. You can see from the wear on the face that ive not exactly been thrashing it.

Suggestions on good ball joint seperators?

not much progress lately, been very busy with other stuff.

However, i now have all front suspension bushes, new engine mounts, ball joints and steering whatnots obtained and ready to go in:

but - i want to put all these into cleaned and repainted cross member and wishbones

so, in preparing for changing these over ive reobtained old blue's remaining front suspension from Testament (hes done the 124-125 hub conversion - updates or it didnt happen!) to use for refurbishment, but most of those parts, inlcuding the cross member are bent.

Ill have to take parts out of red oxide to make a complete straight set but that means that it might not be movable any more which will be a real pain - i should probably bring it home and strip it and get rid of it really.

alternative is taking lil blue to a garage to pay someone to do it all i was hopping to just pay to get the bushes pressed in.

also tried my sand blaster attachement - dissapointing as my compressor is too crappy, so might get a bunch of stuff blasted or dipped and then coated. any west or north auckland suggestions?.

there is also a small bit of rust in the engine bay that i need to get the engine out to access that i should do before WoF time. However if i do that then i may as well paint the engine bay and do the clutch and relocate the battery and deloom the bay and so where do you stop!

also, if im going to do that then I need an engine hoist to do it and that means imay as well use the suspension parts in the car already as the base, but then it will be immobile too.

so basically there is still a lot of messing about to do.

damn my small garage.

ya what ky said, hinge-pin death match

i had the same issue but on my fiat the door pins/hinges cannot be replaced :\

so to take up the inevitable slop in the drivers door I set the top one a wee bit too high, then pulled the door down to tighten up the bottom one.

then the hinges are like this:

|\|

d

o

o

r

|/|

instead of like this:

|I|

d

o

o

r

|I|

this will take some messing around to get no slop and nice gaps.

also my next mod was going to be drilling a small hole though the hinge to the pin for a greasegun/syringe.

also reccomend this stuff:

for hand washing after car time

- its runnier than jif, scour stuff (pumice?) seems to be a finer grade, and feels/smells much nicer on my sensitive man hands

put bit on your greasy mitts, rub it in for a while (no water), then wash stuff and greb off with water, then you can place your filthy paws on them silky drawers without leaving a grubby mark

this is choice

same exterior colour (and shape except the bishops nose boot) as my last one, and same red/white interior as my first one.

wish i could find photos of them. do miss 'em

i just got some shorter ones for my fiat (studebaker lark ones from memory) from http://www.basisnz.co.nz, heaps to choose from, and http://www.rarespares.com.au/rsnz has a good selection as well.

be prepared to spend a fucking age on their websites (esp basis) to find what you want amonst the random shit that the search spits out.

once ordered will arrive pretty smartly tho.

I like that mountshop site as they have the dimensions (yeah, crazy i know!) but they didnt have what i needed.

have been in the south island which was lovely

southland actually looks like this!

meanwhile, received new boot rubbers (last seller in the world with some!) and a cheap but shiny mirror from europe, this is of it installed and also the last shot before raising the front suspension

went up to the storge unit mid week to drop some stuff off and pick up some bits and pieces, and went to the op shop. SCORE!

got these home surround style speakers (but they are all 4ohm ), an unused BMW side lift type jack that fits the 125 jacking points as well as the spot in the boot, and a cool steel toolbox full of old tools all for not much moneys

the centre speaker fits in the little parcel shelf under the dash on the passenger side, and i squeezed a surround one in behind the choke/maual throttle/bonnet release cables just need to get another rca cable splitter thing to listen to the front and rears at the same time now.

also installed the rear lap belts making 2 good ones from a few sets, as well as a lot of other little tidying jobs

and had picked up some springs (rears from toyota estima people mover) from pickapart and internal spring compressors scabbed of EURON8.

despite calculating that these would be perfect I ended cutting another 1 1/2 coils off to make them the same free height as the over-compressed ones, but with a higher spring rate the car sits about 2-3" higher than they did and much firmer too.

Left: original unmodified 125, Centre: Toyota Estima rear, Right: Over compressed 125

New bumps in and have good clearance, and lower wishbones are just above parallel. Test drive also shows that most/all the steering/noise/rubbing issues are now solved. i will still get all the bushes and ball joints done in one go once ive collected them all, as well as blast and coat the wishbones which a looking a bit shabby now relative to everything else.

Rides much better, not too stiff nor soft, with a nice and even sill clearance, perhaps a little nose high which is better i think than nose down like before:

also gave it its first wax, came up much glossier, the paint has almost a powder coated look to it:

i love the colour in this shot:

and one more just because (i wish id closed the door properly...)

very happy, as im much more comfortable driving it the fair distance (for service and repair) for the few jobs still to do.

They are spendy ones which makes me reliant on others, namely:

- remove blast and powdwercoat front suspension components, replace all bushes and tie rod ends (still collecting/saving), wheel alignment.

- install windscreen filler strips

- new exhaust, from headers back

would you be able to do something with this. id like it matt green with some deep dish rims or whatever you choose and as low as possible. can you do tints with photo shop?

hopefully this picture will be ok. if this picture isnt any good il have to get another one. cheers

these:

rule for grinding tight welds etc.

no probs with it so far and ive thashed it

people were blowing their loads all over it. pie/red bull/petrol stops took half an hour as I had to fend off all the piners

lol

re fuel sender,

perhaps the E<->F resistance range is different on your new type one or reversed compared to old, hence funny readings from puter and guage?

or maybe new type outputs volts or something as the fuel level changes instead of ohms so is showing funny readings on your guages?

or maybe its just french and therefore just weird in a mime in a beret and stripy shirt kinda way.

That looks awesome! What wheels are those? Any chance of one with the current wheel combo I have going on?

1. cheers, its your car

2. as they say ^ widened rostyles

3. ok, but had to lower it even more because its got skinny wheels now so it can IRL and well its a potatochop so i just could

looks good, bit of white to offset all that flat black

was hoping to roll beyond muriwai to attend this in a certain blue lump of FIAT, but will be elsewhere at same time and still no wof no reg

hopefully next time

its choice as is

however could you put some of these on and take lots of photos of it please:

also build thread linky:

viewtopic.php?f=17&t=29363

working my way down my to-do list.

flatted and cut, and polished - i now know that my compressor cant push enough air to run the DA, so i tried a big pad on my grinder and it just about blew up after about 1/4 of the bonnet. So, i did it by hand, which was super boring and tiring, so of course i did a half assed job of it and the finish could be much better but Im ticking that off anyway

after that, soundz!

stole these out of my van, which are surprisingly awesome:

which are running off this:

it has lots of cool dials to twiddle and lots of lights, some that even go in time with the music, so i couldn't very well put it under the seat could I? It is sitting on the passenger foot rest and there is plenty of rear leg room so I will find a bit of black carpet to hang over the top of it eventually. It's set up to only run an i-pod (or similar - no head unit required), into the rear RCA input, and works much as i'd planned, but requires a switch on the remote wire to turn off, as for some reason my earlier 'head unit' wiring to the ignition doesnt seem to turn it off when the key is off - i bet ill forget and flatten the battery at some point .

Installed the 125T tombstone seats and my bargain bin blue fluffy seat covers to hide the rips in the drivers bum area. Very comfy and also very classy apart from the blue fluff that they leave on your clothes. (i like the cookie monster but not that much).

Installed some new blue hoses (brake reservoir and booster vacuum) in the engine bay and tidied it up again. You can see my lazy masking lines but I am planning on pulling the engine out at some stage to finish off in here, as well as tidy up some of the wiring etc. Considering putting the battery in the boot at the same time.

Replaceing the reservoir lines meant bleeding the brakes (which needed doing again anyway), which also allowed me to put on my 'warrant' wheels, which also rub less.

After that, nothing for it but to load the family up to go get an ice cream/test the brakes

Brakes where heaps better, but not 100% . This drive also confirmed that the front suspension needs sorting, so this week ill will be ordering all new tie rod ends (4 needed!) and upper ball joints, and have some Studebaker Lark front bump stops on the way - i have all the rest of the front bushes already and found some likely looking springs at pickapart from the rear of a toyota estima of all things, which have slightly thicker diameter wire and less coils (harder) but same free height as muy compressed ones, so hopefully the front suspension will be all sorted very soon.

Low is cool, but handling is better.

After that, new exhaust (current bitza bangs and rattles), screen filler stuff in and then WOF time (hopefully )