azzurro

so

tell me about how the fugly carib shape is invisible when you are sitting inside it listening to glorious induction noise from the factory throttle bodies

Tidy car. Cover that bitch in silly cone and sell it. Buy a carib.

Good Advice

BANNED

still, passing would be cool...

damnit i reread the quote i quoted.

Mods to original engine allowed to add 20%

new engine, same or less power allowed :\

20-50 and lucas oil bra

done, but NZDM Moreys brO.

Reduced the blue puffs, but not fixed.

my reading of the rules is that  4AFE to 4AGE + 6 speed and LSD is borderline okish, depnding on the care facotr of your wof dude

www.lvvta.org.nz%2Fdocuments%2Fstandards%2FLVVTA_STD_Engine_%26_Drive-train_Conversions.pdf

4.2 Engine modifications that do not require certification
A vehicle is not required to be certified to the Low Volume Vehicle Code,
provided that the safe performance of the vehicle is not compromised,
where the only modifications to the vehicle are those to the engine
originally fitted to the vehicle by the vehicle manufacturer, that result in an
increase of no more than 20% in engine power output from the original
vehicle manufacturer’s specifications.

4.3 Engine conversions that do not require certification
A vehicle is not required to be certified to the Low Volume Vehicle Code,
provided that the safe performance of the vehicle is not compromised,
where the only modification to the vehicle is the fitting of an engine other
than that fitted by the vehicle manufacturer, and that the engine:
(a) is of the same or less capacity or power output; and
( is of the same configuration; and
© the fuel type is not changed from petrol to diesel or vice-versa; and
(d) has the same type of fuel induction system; and
(e) has the same weight, location, and centre of gravity; and
(f) is of the same design and casting family of cylinder block and
cylinder head(s).

4.4 Gearbox conversions that do not require certification
A vehicle is not required to be certified to the Low Volume Vehicle Code,
provided that the safe performance of the vehicle is not compromised,
where the only modification to the vehicle is the fitting of a gearbox or
automatic transmission other than that fitted by the vehicle manufacturer,
and that:
(a) the gearbox or automatic transmission has been fitted using the
gearbox cross-member originally fitted to the vehicle; and

some more on the next page

2ZZ vs 4A

that^  is the PO's new car, he got the same colour and as close to the same specs as possible, and was annoyed that he couldnt get front winder windows (only rear ones). He still asks me about his old car.

duuudes,

i had not considered those fine engines, mainly as they will not bolt in, nor be a 4A-GE, 7A-FE or cheap but mintly low milage 4AFE of some sort.

But glad you got them on the list, and please proceed

(no, do not want a proceeeed engine neiver)

hi,

i love my daily driver wagon, but the trusty 4A-FE is getting pretty tired, now that its just clocked over 250km,

As received:

Doing the do:

Still starts first time every time, and sips the gas, uses no coolant and no oil leaks but burning heaps of oil (yerp, valve stem seals are fairly nominal at this point!)

Apart from the winder windows, the only thing that i dont like about it (coming from a J18A powered Suzuki Baleno GTX wagon) is the engine. Plently of low range 'pep' for pootling along but no real top end.

I want to get a engine/box and ECU etc all together as a known runner ready to bolt in over a weekend (+/- a clutch and engine mount or two) - im thinking front cut.

I understand that any AE1XX front end will pretty much bolt in (higher spec wagons have 4AGE of various iterations fitted factory)

Car already has 1600 EFI (4AFE) and various Trueno bits and pieces eg rear IRS/Discs, strut mount, lowering springs etc , and im not interested in certing so keeping it sensible.

I also want to keep the good parts about the 4AFE (ie economy) and fix the bad (ie oil burning and a bit meh), and the body is super clean and tidy, and i like the colour otherwise i woudnt bother.

So, given CBF spending $400 on new stem seals and gaskets, and i dont know about the cam belt, so tell me about NA 4A-GE engine swaps!

Like:

Im currently pondering Blacktop and a 6 speed, but only becase more hgears is more 2F2F, and IDK more than that

How much to pay? (i see engines/long blocks going for like $100 bucks?) Obv all the bits will be more...but how much?

Reccomeded wreckers?

What engine/box combo or car model to look for/avoid?

Why do 20v engines love to sludge?

Why are Black tops better than Silver tops?

I also need a few suspension bushes, but fucked if I can find a good place that sells them.

Andddddd go!

yes, thats what i said

was easy with all the barpbarpbarp, excessive throttle blips between clutching and gilly whine, noone was looking at me

mint rx photo shoot bomb/stealing

yellow

why does snoop carry an umbrella?

fo' the drizzle, fo' rizzle

tho i think this icy grill is better

nice

moonies that look cool!

...and to my right is my new van...

hope its got a grumpy sidevalve in it

grrr

dont spill any blood red wine

so i rolled to this, snuck in behind the OS rotary club, a glorious sight and sound indeed.

heres some pictures-

Love the dudes face like a tweenie spotting one direction

shiney red

death race red

spare engines in that one red

standing by for spare engines

Took the car out to Caffine and Classics today,

//oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/42367-caffiene-and-classics-23-febraury-smales-farm-akl-10am/?p=1349227

on the way there i got a puncture/flat tyre, but the tyres are a bit old and pretty stuffed had slow leaks anyway so this afternoon after taking this last photo with (3 out of 4) the wards on (for now):

i swapped back to my meshies with nice near-new Direzzas, which i repainted to an off-white aaages ago, and some better wheel bolts instead of the (bloody rubbish!) two piece conversion studs i had before

Also took another half coil out of the front and put an extra 5mm wheel spacer on too, could maybe go another half coil, but ill wait till the 2L is in as its a bit heavier - suspension seems quite a bit firmer too.

Pretty happy with that, hopefully the meshies will gain some depth when they dust up a bit.

the 1608cc engine still starts and runs really nice, but it left this mess on the driveway,

This is just from from sittling while swapping the rims over today, which is very annoying after changing all the seals not long ago, and its embarressingly smokey on over run going down hills etc as well.

So Ive also pulled finger and built up the 2L and stuck the 5 speed gearbox onto it,

just waiting on a couple of small bits and bobs (which may turn into a big order now im getting them from overseas...), and hopefully getting the main missing puzzle piece :

a 5 speed tunnel section should be making its way up in the next couple of weeks  :D 

If it was workign sweet for 6-8 months then its not palsides fault. If it is a sudden change then its something that has suddenly changed to cause this.

what i mean is you should find and fix the issue properly, instead of masking it with more force.

should return to closed without a large® return spring (on the accellerator cable or whatever) there is a small coil spring on the end of the throttle shaft(s) which is more than capable of snapping the throttle closed - if this isnt working propertly theres something wrong (could be that very spring of course).

Its probalby something dumb like a nut comeing a bit loose and letting something catch.

You also said its flooding? non-closed butterflys will let in more air & fuel so will be running on idle/transition or main circuit rather than just too much gas? ie will 'idle' really fast.

Moved the Croma to mow the lawn under it again.

swapped the original injectors back in (with new orings and filters) and took it for a blast. Goes great guns, if a bit laggy, and no skids (did a mean one getting it off the grass tho!)

Seems to cut the ingition or something, on high load - i think it may be fuel related (fuel pump too weak?) as the OEM higher flowing injectors have moved the cut sumptoms up the rev range a bit from the last time i took it out.

On the way back from the last run, it blew an intercooler hose off, but lucky the walk home to get a scredriver wasnt too far!

back on and now it wont idle and is hard starting, and i seem to have lost a park light cover, so thats that i suppose.

Mowed its patch before putting it back, but the next time it gets driven is to get its engine pulled out.

i <3 boost...

they are pretty simple mechanically, you should be a ble to spot it, but you might need to pull it off the manifold

could be

- something jammed in there,

- one of the springs or tabs on one end of the throttle shaft has shifted or come loose/catching on something?

- butterfly come loose?

- throttle shaft a bit bent (they run on bearings)?

ACCs failure to clearly communicate something that is so obviously going to cause a lot of public hoohaa is the actual problem here.

A simple table that showed in simple terms what they were going to do should have been in the press release, eg:

"Car older than X = Vintage and not affected (and in fact a bit cheaper)

Car newer than Y and 5 star (or whatever) = deemed Safe and levys reduced.

All others see attached table, you are probably going up unless you car has a high crash rating*

 

*exceptions too all the above may apply, read the fine print suckers."

EURON8 came over yesterday afternoon to see if we could get the Croma moving, the only thing stopping it being the clutch.

Jacked it up, and managed to get the turbo winding up while in gear and applying the brakes
(also to try to jolt the clutch off the flywheel)

Thus motivated and after some epic bleeding and bodging there is enough clutch to just disengage the cutch while in gear and took it for a blast.

is actually really nice to drive and the engine will be certainly scary enough in the 125. 

The Croma were set up as a tourqy cruiser rather than a top end screamer and is pulled well.

I think it was leaning out on boost tho, so I will clean up the original injectors and put them back in and tidy a few other things before a couple more test drives .

Success!

clutch pedal feel is very soft and stays on the floor, but shifts the slave about 5-10mm (which is about the same as my corolla), and im pretty sure the hydralics are working as intended - they just have no resistance to push against

I can move the clutch arm (that the slave pushes on) with my fingers about 20mm without resistance (cant budge the rolla's one at all) so im thinking rookie & ky may be onto some sort of 'inside the bellhousing' problem.

the clutch is effectively stuck 'on' (off?) and wont disengage.

Ill move it to the driveway (which is level) and give it another bleed/rock in gear before giving up and dropping the subframe/engine out and binning the rest.

in Croma news, i have replaced the slave cylinder with a new one ($30!) and a uno master (+ extra flexi from the uno slave) from pickapart.

unfortunately i cant seem to get the thing bled properly despite pushing at least 3 liters of fluid though it.

Either that or the clutch is jammed on somehow (i can move the arm on the gearbox by hand quite a bit). I dunno.

Engine starts and runs fine, so its a bit annoying that i cant test drive it.

Grass is getting long around it so i will move it to the driveway and give it another bleed soon, and based on that either drive it then strip it, or just skip the driving bit.

___

Recent monarchy related long weekend, we went on a family holiday up to the Tutukaka coast (east of Whangarei), 3 adult sized humans + one medium sized dog + stuff for 4 days 3 nights, 2 surfboards and wetties, no worries.

Only drama was a carb blockage (a small bug/worm in the main jet?!) about 2km from our local servo, which was easy fixed and not really the cars fault.

Also a knock in the rear suspension was traced to (both!) top nuts on the shocks coming loose. One has worn the thread off a bit on one side, and both are missing the lock nut - WTF.

It is using a lot of oil tho, and i pulled the plugs before leaving - #1 was very ashed up to the point of no gap, and all the others were also ashes/oiled to lesser degrees, and these were brand new before heading to Nelson.

Smells of oil on overrun and puffs a bit of bluey smoke on startup, free revving and after idling for a while as well, all of which point towards worn valve stem guides. This is the head that came with brass sheet under the shims, so despite having new looking pistons and a rebore i also suspect worn rings. Way too many oil pressure light on oil surges (one is too many, but sump-baffles have cured this, probably a bit too late) and slowly reducing oil pressure over time also point to worn/wearing main bearings too.

Doesnt really seem to be affecting starting, idles like a top, or performance (surprised plenty of fellow holiday makers thinking they would pass 'that overloaded old blue car' on the hills  )  but time to pull finger and put the NA 2L and 5 speed in which are just taking up valuable room in my too small garage.

Anyway, pics:

ha,

thought it was most apparrent on overrun, so thats what ya get for following too close going downhill.

all bases covered man.