Ridal

I know some of the 4wd ****aces have T series front diffs with good ratio's (4.55 / 4.77) and I've located a CR36 with the front diff still there. http://www.toyodiy.com/parts/p_J_1991_TOYOTA_TOWNACE_CR36V-PD_4301.html http://www.toyodiy.com/parts/xref?s=41311-14031&mJ=on Can anyone confirm?

I've put a dash out of an AA60 Carina (3A-U) in my wagon and need a suitable oil pressure sender to replace my standard switch. Does anyone have one handy that they could get a part number off / one I can buy? Appco didn't have a listing and I don't have a sample.

Just got my wagon going again so might have to come. They have a really good foosball table.

I took the lids off and the fuel level on the front carb was very low. Found a tiny filter on the needle valve was very blocked with rust looking particles so cleaned and tested both lids and replaced. Problem solved. Really enjoying the new cam and carbs! Thanks for the help everyone.

They're on a 5K. After some running the rear carbs chokes are damp with fuel where as the front carb is completely dry (not sure which is normal). The vacuum is plumbed off one of the rear carb runners. The venturi's are 36mm. It hasn't played up on the dyno so I haven't got any afr readings while it's running badly. The funny thing is that it ran fine on consecutive full length power runs so I don't think it's running out of fuel. I will be testing the fuel pressure during a run though just to be sure. I haven't checked the banjo filters so will do that. Pretty unlikely that it would be ignition but I'll test it tomorrow.

I've recently upgraded to a pair of DHLA 40's but the frontmost carb (at the end of the fuel line) doesn't seem to be supplying fuel, so the engine runs on 2 cylinders only. I've set the float levels and cleaned all the jets. The float bowl has fuel and the accelerator pump jets work well. I'm using the standard mechanical fuel pump which supplies around 2.7 PSI. I'm thinking there must be some serious blockage somewhere but I don't have much experience with DHLA's so any ideas would be greatly appreciated. It's intermittent and I've had it running well on both the dyno and road. Sometimes it will splutter between running on 2 and 4 cylinders.

Is the rubber disc you speak of part number 44626‑60010 in the link below? http://www.toyodiy.com/parts/p_J_1985_TOYOTA_CARINA+FR_KA67V-AXKRSW_4703.2.html

Well welcome to the club. I'll inform you of any of my findings anyway. It'll probably be Sunday before I have time to try anything unfortunately.

I can't remember. Is the rubber disc at the pedal linkage end of the piston or something? I should be able to get hold of some proper line clamps. I did wonder about that adjustment and will do as you say. I would have thought the booster would be less effective as the throttle opens due to loss of vacuum? Regardless, the pedal travels much too far for it to be ignored. I've got a good list of things to check now. Thanks for all the help everyone.

Yes it does. I checked the line to the manifold and it's clear. The one way valve is working as it should and the diaphragm in the booster doesn't seem to be leaking. I would have thought the booster would become less effective with more throttle/rpm (less vacuum) and cause more the opposite of what I'm experiencing. Could there be something else wrong? I wanted to clamp the lines for the tests you mentioned today but lacked the clamps. I'll get hold of some and see what I find.

The brake fluid path is reservoir -> master cylinder -> proportioning valve -> calipers/wheel cylinders. There's a chance that bleeding the master cylinder separately will release some air trapped in there. I didn't bench bleed the cylinder when I fitted it. The pedal still has travel when the engine is not running. It's not as firm as my Corona's pedal though. So I guess it's either air in the system or bulging lines, more likely the former.

Sorry I mean the bleed nipples at the calipers/wheel cylinders. Bleeding the master cylinder onwards is the next thing to do. But would that explain the pedal depressing when the revs are raised?

KA67 Carina I have a terrible feeling brake pedal. The brakes become effective when the pedal is about half way to the floor but this varies slightly. The pedal seems to be firm but when I have my foot hard on the pedal and raise the revs at the same time, the pedal will sink even further. I replaced the master cylinder last year, bled the brakes from the nipples twice and have properly adjusted the rear drums (handbrake slack etc). No fluid is leaking. I haven't bled the system from the master cylinder onwards so it's possible there is air somewhere in there. I also haven't had a good look for bulging hoses either. I'm planning on doing a few engine mods soon which will increase the power so I'd really like to get the brakes sorted before that happens. Any ideas? Thanks, James

Plus it's the town of the future.

This seems unreasonably cheap but here is a rebuild kit for sale in the states (synchros and bearings): http://cobratransmission.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=2_2067&products_id=50277003&zenid=e7302cd938de31d8a53434d31350afd1 Does anyone know which T50 has the 62mm OD x 16mm wide input bearing?

I'll try to get a before and after dyno run in for some conclusive data although the current tune is too lean to allow a full run (undersized carb). I'm hoping it will pick up revs quicker between downshifts when I blip the throttle regardless of power/torque figures.

And also in the tractor video you can see he has come to a complete stop but still has throttle on. Must be sizzling the clutch/flywheel.

Possibly. The clutch, flywheel, and cover look like they've been hardly used at all. I bought it off Trade Me a while ago. It has a 190mm machined surface and came with a K series clutch and a heavier than standard cover. If it was yours, do you remember what the clamping pressure of the cover is? What did the machinist think of the strength? I just bought a TA22 clutch to use in my T50.

I'm fully aware of the potential risk and the amount of energy that is stored in a flywheel doing 7 or 8 thousand rpm. The potential gains aren't worth $650 to me, well not at this stage. I think I'll give it a whirl and report back with success/disaster story. I would think most cases of flywheel failure would be a result of high rpm, heat, a certain amount of power/torque, and an abusive left foot. Being behind a 5k putting out around 90 rwhp and using an organic clutch I think I'll take the risk. Am I right in thinking the flywheel will experience less torsional force due to the lower mass?

Has anyone actually had a flywheel let go on them?

It is cast. The engine is built for performance and is I've got a more aggressive cam and side drafts to install in the near future so I think it will benefit from the lighter flywheel. The cam grind is purely for peak power so drivability is not high on the list.

That's right. I'm mainly concerned that it could destroy my K-T bellhousing which are quite hard to come by.

I'm about to install a standard K series flywheel which has been cut down to 4.8kg. Is there a reasonable risk of it shattering? I'll be using an organic clutch so it shouldn't get too hot but it's pretty thin compared to a standard item which weighs around 10kg.

So I removed the cluster and found that if either one of the two plugs are plugged in, the water temp gauge will not move from power off position but when the second plug is in it will flick to the end of it's range in the hot direction. This happen regardless of which plug is plugged in first. What does this mean? I struggle with electrics so any suggestions are welcomed.

Quite possibly. There is what looks like an earth cable in the cabin that isn't attached but it doesn't change either gauge when I earth it out. Perhaps there are others I've missed.