governorsam
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Posts posted by governorsam
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had one of those years ago with a formula ford motor and gte box in it.
was one of my favorite cars.
like the project, wanting one again now..
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uploading old photos...
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yup, was easier, and i live on a hill which needs good brakes. morrie minor van, everything is the same. think i also used the legs too, they are stronger than the side valve ones. bolt straight in, no cert.
also bolted the diff in too.
the side valve wheels have a reputation for falling apart at the rivets.
silly thing is, I'm about to change it all again to toyota stuff...
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wheels came on another one i wrecked. appear to be morrie centers with proper new hoops with a rimlock on them. means i can run tubeless radials.
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reassembled, fitted wider rims, replaced flathead motor with a morrie 1000 and ribbed gearbox and van brakes.
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made new panels out of the roof of another one i scrapped..
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discovered a bit of rust...
made new bits...
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started pulling him apart......
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the day i got george home
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angle grinder, wet rag on bits you don't want hot sparks on.
or a die grinder.
or drill then cold chisel.
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Awesome
mad bugger rode it from governors bay to taitapu, over gebbies pass with no brakes.
also made this..
external flywheel runs on the tyre, bit like a solex.
had 2 c50 barrels sleeved together, suction inlet valve (weak spring, no rocker)
lawnmower ignition, exposed everything...
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usually in november, but old syd passed away last year.
used to start at the casmere club in christchurch, then through the lyttelton tunnel to governors bay pub.
on to the wheatsheaf pub, then prize giving at taitapu.
was legendary, usually about 130 to 180 scooters of all types.
mad as, people used to make bikes just for the run..
talk of another one this year on the flat, will let people know if it happens.
think syd was a member of the vintage car club as well.
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came across this album the other day, have been doing this run for a few years now.
might be some ideas in here for some?
cbf putting all the pics up, heres the link...
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http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/boats-marine/parts-accessories/other/auction-389113547.htm
this guy might know, has just put a 4.1 in.
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un plug the 2 wires from the back of the generator, then join the terminals on the generator together with a bit of wire or whatever.
hook your volt meter red lead to them.
earth (battery -) the black lead.
start the car up, should get about 15 to 16 volts from the generator. (or more)
if not, gen is the problem
if you do, regulator is the problem.
or wiring.
still run a gen on my morrie, they work fine on a stock car.
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http://www.smackley.com/2010/02/my-zombie-van-is-for-sale.html
like that, zombie removal...
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keen
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will be at work too...
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http://www.stuff.co.nz/the-press/5194425/Police-have-frantic-Saturday-night-in-Kaikoura
Mr Hansen said earlier yesterday, members of the Canterbury highway patrol and two police from Blenheim travelled to Kaikoura to provide back-up when the police caught wind of a boy-racer event planned for the town that weekend. One person was arrested for driving when disqualified and six cars were impounded, all but one belonging to people who did not live in Kaikoura.The boy-racer meet was thought to have been organised on social website facebook by someone living outside Kaikoura, with the intention of using the town's public Go-Kart track, Mr Hansen said.
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check the other wire has power, might be the sensing wire.
check field windings on rotor first, just put power across the slip rings.
should draw bugger all power and give a wee flash when disconnected. (bit like an ignition coils primary windings)
unsolder the rectifier, get a reasonable size amp meter and check current draw across the different stator windings with a 12v battery.
don't leave hooked up too long, or you will burn out your stator.
current draw will be about what the alternator is rated at. ie 30 amps or whatever.
this checks it under load, a multimeter can give false readings sometimes.
the rectifier is like a series of diodes (one way electric valves) check them when unsoldered from the stator
with a 12v battery and a headlight bulb.
should have power one way, not the other.
failing that throw it as far as you can, swear at it, buy another one.
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the ballast resistor on an escort is a weird setup, a long resistor wire hidden inside the loom.
by pass it, go straight from the back of the key and use an external ceramic resistor.
don't forget the ballast bypass on startup either, usually the spare small terminal on the solenoid cap.
not needed to run, but makes starting easier.
sounds like you burnt the points out too.
new points, new condenser, new resistor, new wires, should go mint.
cheers.
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alternator won't work without the warning light.
find the small wire that goes to the alt, earth it out with a testlight - with ign on.
warning light has 12v from key through the bulb and earths through the alternator field windings.
no light working, the alternator wont fire up.
or put a bulb between the batt + and the warning light terminal on the alt to see if that works.
worth a shot...
Govenersam's morris minor
in Project Discussion
Posted
have you seen my working conditions? out side on a shingle drive way on a slope.
with earthquakes.
probably snow tomorrow too...
mint. haven't driven george in anger in the snow yet.