governorsam
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Posts posted by governorsam
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f is field
e is earth
n is relay control bit, 6v is fine.
unplug 3pin plug, put 12v "+" to "F" and that will bypass reg.
start up, not reving too much, check voltage at batt. should be 13.8v and upwards as you rev it more.
not too much, as the reg has been bypassed. go over 15 volts, you will start blowing bulbs and boiling batterys.
if all good, turn everything electrical on full - wipers, lights on hi-beam, heater, etc.
run above test again, this will load test alt, wiring and belt slippage.
put volt meter between batt "+" and alt"+" under full electrical load, and rev up a bit.
no more than 0.5v
same from batt "-" and alternator body.
report back findings when done.
go.
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I use a 3m speedglas, paid 250 second hand off trademe. good helmet for what i do.
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pass on the naked bit. bikes bad enough as it is.
where is a good place for 28" tyres and tubes?
that's all it needs for the next run.
and I need a hat.
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cleaning out a mate's shed and found these.
might have to make a tweed run bike.
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my old one. flat black with pinstripe flames / hotwire mags.
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spotted this gte in geraldine on the weekend.
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Open up the alternator and check the brushes. That may be the problem
do this.
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wiring should be fine, just get repaired what is needed. fuse box on these are prone to playing up.
replace fuses, and clean up the terminals with a bit of wet and dry sandpaper.
also check plugs to the dash, sounds like they were the last things to be touched.
failing that, should be able to help after work some day if needed.
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looking good. converted mine to studs, just use later morrie ones.
countersink the rear of the drums and bash studs through.
lets me use toyota mags on it. heaps better.
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discussion/abuse link below
http://oldschool.co....sams-49-morrie/
did the rust yesterday. well some of it anyway.
not looking good..
oh dear..
oh my...
lots better.
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check brushes in the alternator as well, common failure/wear out.
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volvo 5tr.
d2-LUVC3v5Y
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should have an f next to it on the alternator.
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if light is on all the time, put batt + to the "f" terminal (field) and check as above.
voltage should rise heaps. this bypasses the regulator, and will tell you if it is a reg or alt problem.
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loose fan belt? voltage drop?
if you can turn the alternator fan by hand and it slips on the belt, may be the problem.
run motor about 2-3000 rpm, voltmeter on the battery should be 13.8 to 14.2 volts.
now turn on high beam lights, wipers, heater, etc to full, recheck.
if lots lower, its either the fan belt, or voltage drop.
measure voltage between the battery + and the alternator + under load (everything turned on as above, revving the motor)
anything more than 0.5 volts is worth looking at.
repeat with the earth terminals, but go from the batt negative to the block. also check from batt negative to the body.
if all this fails, drink beer / kill it with fire.
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need details on syds run, heard it was on the flat this year?
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use ear plugs.
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put dr250 stuff on it. same motor sort of.
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check linkages and cable clips on the side of the heater box. the hot/cold cable can jam up as well, usually after a broken window at some stage.
glass jams up the flaps, force the lever across.... snap.
did 4 yrs replacing car heaters for a job.
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will need to reverse this
as well or it will read backwards.
governorsam's barn find humber and bsa
in General Bike Chat
Posted
from what i can tell the forks and front wheel are humber, as in humber cars.
rear hub is a perry, and a munted brooks saddle.
no other markings anywhere.
the bsa has a shimano 3 speed hub with twist grip changer.
ladaspeed, keen to get those tyres off you, would be cool to take this thing for a ride as is on the next tweed run.
or even the pub tbh.