Slacker_Sam.

I finished wire brushing & cleaning the floor. Started hammeriting all the rust. I got quite a bit done most of the underneath stuff, and spots around the cab. Then I Ran out of hammerite. Mitre 10 wanted $50 for a 500ml... dreaming. Only $22 at work. In other news I went and stripped a very rusty 620 ute of a couple bits and bobs. It was so rusty that When i opened the door the whole A pillar came off with the door & fell to the ground.

I was so stoked to find an ignition barrel with matching Key! No more screwdriver starting

And a early shape grille: Top vs My one: Bottom. It Needs a repaint Bit is in pretty good nick.Might alternate between these.

And 1x Hubcap...

My one doesn't have quarter windows! Ripped off. I still cant believe how thin the steel is on these things. seedy Al your one looked quite nice in white.

Sounds lush as.

I had a look at rusty truck. When the guy said rusty he meant totally fucked! the cab is just sagging over the chassis. Not many useful bits on it. So I gave it a miss.

Ok so most of the patching is done. There was a lot more rust than I expected. And 90% was in the floor.

Patches:

This bit was the hardest. The inner & outer sill were just rotten. So I had to make a new inner and outer. I think it looks pretty good considering the metal work tools I have (A grinder & a hammer.)

There are loads more patches underneath, Mostly around the cab mounts. The L/H middle cab mount was completely gone. 

The rest of the rust is fairly minor, a bit of rust kill & some paint should suffice.

Next thing to do is wire brush the inside floor of the cab & apply some Por15 or Hammerite. (I prefer Hammerite because British) Same story With under the cab where I have made repairs. Then Fish oil underneath.

I'm going to be frank... $4300 for that is about $2300 overpriced. Plus you've got to get it up to Auckland so there's another couple of hundy. So $4500 + or - then you've got to modify it on top of that. seems like a huge waste of money. I'd say save your money & wait until a nicer cheaper one comes along.

So this would be the worst part of rust. Not quite sure what to do there. Cut it all out & start again?

If there's no oil under it, there's no oil in it! yoeddynz has kindly lent me his welder so tomorrow I'll spend patching up the rust. Because datsun.

Its true though. Even the roughest triumphs Ive had haven't been this rusty. Must be a Jap thing.

Right whist it wasn't raining I decided to make a start on the rust. one thing lead to another......There is lots of rust.

There is loads of this rubbery putty shit around all the joins. It seems to be holding the moisture against the metal causing RUST

Behind the LH Sill/ Cab mount....Fuck.

L/H rear cab mount. Note to previous owner: Black silicone & mud is not a rust repair..

Under the dash, Not as bad as I thought

Random rust in door. Moisture got behind the bog

I was expecting this part to have huge amounts of rust but no. luckily.

Inside, rust around the seat belt buckle anchor is pretty bad:

The floor wells are remarkably solid

And lastly Top of the Left rear cab mount... More black silicone rust repairs:

Lots of work to do. Its not too bad. Serves me right for buying a Jap over a Brit.

I like the J series Its just like working on a British Leyland A & B series. Its almost exactly the same actually.

Believe it or not that was my other idea.

No ball joints in my front end Cheers for the contact for the wellside. I'm very tempted to get one... or maybe 2 - sell one to recover some cost.

I've also found an incredibly rusty spare parts ute for cheap.

Those red wheels look chur.

This arrived this morning. Thanks TMC-ke70! Just what I wanted.

haha Ute coupe spec. Why are there not any here?? It would be super sweet.

Yea Ive seen those. Car/ute mash up

one of those Thai places haha. I'll have a read up. I would've thought shipping was a fair bit from overseas?

Wellside?

I'd love a wellside. But finding one is the hard part.

or full of Bog haha. Seeing as the factory hubcaps are lost I quite like the Idea of those bullet style centre caps. I think just straight black with whitewall flappers. or maybe another colour with beauty rings & flappers.

Project: //oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/38418-sams-75-datsun-620-utility/

White walls with black wheels? or another colour..

Discussion: //oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/38422-sams-75-datsun-620-utility/

I've been looking for something to replace the Hunter wagon. Sadly everything old & Jap seems to be mega dollars. However I spotted this 620 down the road from my place down a driveway....long story short Its now mine.

Its still got the factory J15 Motor & 4 Speed column change. Seems to go pretty well, factory wheels that look to have been widened at some stage, interiors pretty good, factory radio, mint dash etc.

Needs some rust repairs but meh... Its a Datsun.

Pics;

Rust:

So jobs required are:

*Fix rust

*Give it a much needed tidy up

*Remove gaymax window tints

*new carpet
*Lots of Low

*White walls?

*Bullet style centre caps or Find some hubcaps

I don't think the cefiro has a check engine light.

I hate this car. Its CA31 Cefiro factory RB20DET. It doesn't have a distributor with points & condenser so I'm already out of my depth haha.

It used to start up first pop. I replaced the headgasket & put it back together over a long period of time. Everything is as it was. Timing is spot on, everything is plugged in, compression is good. For some reason It had no spark when cranking. So I replaced the Cam angle sensor & Igniter pack. The coils are all new... Still no spark when cranking. However there is spark & injector pulse if you pull the CAS out and spin it. So I'm thinking voltage drop off when cranking? To top it off Its automatic so I can't try bump starting it.

Remedy anyone?

Sorry mate. I couldn't bare to part with it.

Put a pinto in it.