Dusty

Do not paint the inside! it will come off go through your engine and ruin it. treat with por15 metal ready or some other phosphoric acide type stuff then use fish oil or some waxy grease on the inside. moisture shouldnt be a problem inside there anyway so after taking those two measures of proctection rust should not be an issue. there shouldnt really be an significant amount of moisture in the intake to cause rust anyway, e.g. heaps of old cars ran cast iron manifolds - it would only be if left for years and moisture allowed to get in there that rust could be a problem. cheers ill find some por15 then. mitre10? intake mani. pretymuch done. its ugly and it leaks. choice. turbo and bov: mitsubishi td04-13g-5 out of a vr4. max 14.5 psi so hopefully good for 12-13 mazda b6t clutch and flywheel: total cost to date $800 + $850 of electronics. shit.

ritieo got exahust prettymuch finished just need to remake a coupple mounting hooks. and bolt it up properly.. heres a shitty cell pics of how it looks prettymuch 2.5" vering off to the left which is now blocked off and the super high flow muffler on the right. pics of manifold tommrow. cant be fucked taking now. also megasquirt and 02 sensor are on their way.

soo i did this today also almost finished my mani. pics tommrow.

ok the rust stays then. im still going to paint the inside though as i dont want it rusting at all. also paint might block off any tiny air holes should have this finished next week and ill start on the exhaust mani. its getting wrapped in heatproof tape. dont convince me otherwise. topmount turbo btw

as badass as it would look it would rust inside. pink or some other rand color i know its shoddy it just my cheap turbo swap. ill do a really sexy swap and overhaul in a couple of years. but for now cheap is the way to go.

got the top on the mani. everything appears airtight hopefully it will be. should clean it up more but i cant be f**ked

mani progress: its gotten really bowed from welding :/ and got a battery box as i was sick of having the battery flying around.

Do this, add spacers where required. 0 offset is the perfect offset imo see top of page dj xdubs car http://clubroadster.net/vb_forum/showth ... 39&page=74 also correct me if im wrong but wheels and tyres must be under the guards by law?

i havent built it so i could.it gets a lot of interference so if i had it continuously running it would keep cutting randomly. made me stall once trying it. if i could fix the interfarance id defently add it in but im to shit at electronics to know how. its -5 volts key on pulses high if i ground it ecu wont get the pulse when using ma shift lights as soon as i get within 1000 rpm of the rpm the light should turn on at it starts randomly blinking from interfarance -.-

probably GTX internals into the B8 block, this is the best way to go, use the N/A rods and just get forgend pistons etc. Ideally the 1600 block is the one too boost as they go alot harder than the 18s, ive seen a high comp 1600 running 5 pound and it would dick an 1800 boosting way more. ok from wikipedia BP The 1,839 cc (1.839 L; 112.2 cu in) BP is a dual-overhead variant of the B8 # 1994-1998 Mazda Familia (Japanese Market) # 1994-1997 Mazda MX-5/Miata (did not have VICS until 1999) BPT Mazda BPT - Turbocharged 1.8L The BPT is a turbocharged and intercooled variant of the BP 1989-1994 Mazda Familia GT-X (Japan) solomiata: Many people have used the less expensive FWD based BP8 motors when doing a performance engine build-up or when they are looking for a replacement engine from junkyards vs a genuine Miata engine talking about bp compared to b6 The 1.8 is the same design and is just as robust as the 1.6. It has the same rods, same oil-cooled pistons, same oil passages, same head design and same crank design Since the 1.8 is really just a stretched 1.6, most everything on the front and back of the motor will interchange between the them. This includes the cam angle sensor, coolant intake pipes, flywheel/clutch assembly, various covers and brackets, cam gears, water pump, and timing belt tensioner, etc. The intake manifold, exhaust manifold, motor mount brackets and camshafts do not interchange because of the bore spacing differences. The 1.8 ‘B’ motor has also seen duty in the 1991-1995 Ford Escort GT/LXE, 1990-99 Mazda Protege, 1991-95 Mercury Tracer LTS and Kia Sephia GS. (FYI, the 90-93 Escort GT and Tracer LTS 1.8 DOHC use the same throttlebody and flowmeter as the 1.6 Miata). There was also a SOHC 1.8 used for a short period in the 1990-93 Protege. i already had the controller so it was like $40 in parts magnetic reed switch (to go on the clutch) 2 push switches one for lc and one for shift lights 2 5ms relays and one random relay could defently be used as a kill switch as it did it on mine. when the controller was powered off it was grounding the signal from the dizzy so the ecu didnt think the engine was turning over so no spark. put a relay in between so the controller could fireup. theres two ways of doing it, spark cut or fuel cut. if you have a turbo motor spark cut will help spool the turbo but can create explosions inside the exhaust due to unburnt fuel. fuel cut is safer and is the same thing that is used for rpm/speed cut i used sparkcut cus i wanted to shoot flames =D doesnt work though picaxe should be fine so long as you know how to program it. i used arduino because its piss easy to use and i already had it. ooh and you will need to be able to debug like read the rpm the picaxe is getting so you can work out the math to convert pulsewidth into rpm.

useing microcontroller (arduino) it reads rpm from the dissy and if it hits or goes above cutrpm (4500) it cuts the spark wires from the ecu to the coils by relay. cuttime is about 200ms and after that 200ish ms it unpowers the relay so spark can go through again. i also added in so it self adjusts the cut time so it keeps it as close to the desired rpm (cut for to long and rpm will drop below desired, to short and it will not drop the rpm enough) thats why the sound changes in the video. if you want to know more just ask. anyway small update. intake manifold is slowly getting done. its going to look shoddy and perform shoddy but i dont care solong as it doesnt leak. as you can see theres a reason i decided not to become an engineer.

Dont bother, wont bolt up to your mx5 gearbox+other issues. Ive been fucking around with a similar thing lately and nothing is easy with this lol. Give me a pm if ya wanna discuss further, always interested in chatting about performance gains with these motors. Nice car too, impressive slam spent to much to not bother. from all my searching im pretty sure it drops in and bolts up. custom intake exhaust and waterlines deal with the rest. will use the electronic distributor and coilpacks from current engine and will run it all with megasquirt. if it doesnt bolt up. i will cry.

am interested. iv onyl seen one mx5 with mods and it was a track car on the back of a trailer :/ yeah im not going that bloody low. would like another 20mm drop and im happy.

eh no way. thats choice dont happen to know if he did anything to the engine? iv got some borbet type a 15x8 -15 offset. but they wont be going on untill after i get another cert due to 195/45/15s being to thin by law -.-. will also roll fenders go lower and would like 15-20mm spacers aswell. and cheers guys

well hi. im callum. this is ma 89 mx5 iv had for about a year and a half now. is my first real car (ford mondeo is not a car) ok quick wrap up of history: brought it lookin like this: then put a bore on it and lowered it on some cheap ass $200 springs after 6 months of no wof and a few fines i decided to make it legal again wasnt pretty. i also took a fancy lookin pic painted tappet cover at some point. was hell bored. eventually i get these ooh yeah $1800 from japan made a skid plate because no way in hell was i replacing the sump. and after figuring out how to make the shocks go lower. i slammed it. deleted the bigbore and replace with a extremely low flow inprezza muffler to try and keep a low profile from cops. but eventually. so old shocks went back in that night. wof the next morning and pinkey came off. eventually mustered up the cash for a cert, slammed it again, failed horrably, raised, passed, lowered with limits of cert. and that brings us to the top pics. got bored and made launch control which ill probabily never use: currently saving/building up for a bpt swap(1.8l turbo engine out of a mazda gtx) will take some pics and update here