gibbon

how fast can I swap a head out. do I have the mojo. do I want to buy another head gasket. oh god I'd have to make another inlet gasket because they don't exist anymore..... etc etc 

12 minutes ago, Alfashark said:

How's the compression when it's warm?  

Thinking you may have the reverse issue that plagued a lot of Bountys - They'd smoke like a motherfucker when cold, then when they got a bit of heat in them it stopped - Cracked heads I think in their case.

Seems like something expanding when warm in your case and allowing oil to pass.

Haven't tried a compression check but starting to think I'd be best served by swapping my old head back on, be it stem seals or cracked head. 

could be this, just to add some more info this is what else I tried:

I blanked the oil feed to the turbo, pulled the inlet pipe off, disconnected the airflow meter so it was in limp mode, then held the compressor with my fingers to stop it fucking the bearings by spinning with no oil. And what I found was it only smoked after I snapped the throttle shut, ie at high vacuum. I put it down to not having the pcv functioning as the inlet was disconnected, maybe it's sucking through the stem seals... this is a head I hadn't used prior. Is there a way to really isolate a stem seal issue?

it definitely is, but isnt it weird how it doesn't smoke at all until the car warms up. and when it does, it's instantaneous. the revs abruptly drop, the smoke abruptly starts 

4 minutes ago, bigfoot said:

Turbo dying? I have that spare one sitting on shelf

is that the symptom of a dying turbo? This one is definitely blowing oil out the compressor but it spins happily enough at idle, I don't think it's seizing or anything 

4 minutes ago, tortron said:

Is the fuel really old?

 

 

 

some is extremely old. some is new. some is avgas 

So I'm still halfheartedly trying to fix the starion even as it disappears out the door. The thing fires up first crank and appears to run perfectly for a few minutes, then suddenly like a flip of a switch the revs drop them start rising and falling every couple of seconds like the idle motor is chasing itself, and it starts smoking out the exhaust. Given the timeframe I suspect it's as it's coming off it's auto choke configuration or going into closed loop, but not too sure why it would cause the smoking? I always assumed it was blue smoke but s guy today reckons it looked white to him. Thoughts? Next steps to diagnose? 

got the wideband working, just a dicky plug in the back of the gauge, herp derp 

no, fuck it, this motherfucker is going up for sale

aftermarket adjustable suspension, do the threads and adjuster nuts need to be steel to be road legal or is aluminium ok?

On 17/09/2024 at 07:44, dabuzz said:

that's crazy cheap for a runner though, id expect many issues, but you're already winning

yeah I'd chatted to him when it was a good 10k more but this price drop sealed the deal. I'd also done the maths around building up from one of the cheapo rolling bodies but it's never worth it in my considerable experience of buying awful projects. Having the thing complete in the first place is worth so much

On 26/08/2024 at 18:28, bigfoot said:

I have an innovate wideband here you could have. I resoldered the lead on the sensor after my car tried to set itself on fire. Also have the computers and air flow meter off that motor you got from me if you wanted to try them

fuck I'm so filthy about this AEM wideband. It has literally less than five minutes of runtime on it and it's fucking dead. how? why?

I just want to sort out the oil burning issue first. originally it was just smoking all the time but I blanked the oil feed to the turbo and held the compressor with my finger while the car idled, and there was no smoke until I revved up and backed off, then there was a big puff of blue smoke. obviously the turbo inlet was off while I was doing that so there was no PCV function, hopefully that's all that's causing it. not too pleased about having to pull the turbo and wondering AGAIN if I should just yoink the engine out at that point and pop the spare one in

also the windscreen wipers occasionally twitch randomly. only seen this once before on an E100 corolla, and a few days later it spontaneously combusted

I pulled the lower control arms on the Mazda as the rear bushings were torn. Pressed the old bushings out without paying attention to the fact that the inner bores are a slotted shape rather than concentric. Is there a standard orientation for the slots? 

I used to use a hookit scotch-brite wheel until the engine shop told me off, apparently too abrasive even for an iron block? 

too afraid to get them tested because I'm not sure what my options are if one goes bad! yes still running the factory setup, I thought about fitting up the CA18DET inlet manifold but at that point it's basically less work to do the evo head swap 

I just bought a GSR-V workshop manual from yahoo japan. wasn't cheap and all in japanese but google translate is pretty magic these days. i'd say an english version doesn't exist except that when I bought my car, amongst the shitload of spares was ONE tantalising page torn out of an english manual describing the DASH valve system

I was hoping there was a flow per second option rather than being RPM reliant. easy enough to take a signal from the coil I suppose

is it really that big a deal? look at your alloy inlet manifold, it'll have steel fittings out the wazoo. is stainless steel that much worse? I actually don't know

I figured that might be the case, but the rotor is still only where it is, right? If the computer tells the coil to fire twenty degrees earlier, the rotor won't be lined up with the distributor cap pole? 

does speeduino require an RPM or cam/crank position input in order to schedule fuel flow? or will it happily do it based on airflow and temperature inputs alone?

dumb question, but I just realised that my starion has no flyweight or vacuum advance on the distributor. i cant think of another way it might change ignition timing... am I missing something? are there other factory cars that just have locked ignition as standard?

12 hours ago, shizzl said:

Generally cars aren’t required to have a very for a cage. So unless it states a cage on a very plate you’ll be fine.

every rallycar requires an authority card every year to be exempt from requiring a cert for a cage, unless other mods require a cert (coilovers usually kicks this clusterF off). 

Basically there's a car I'm looking at that has a cage welded in, and rego is on hold. Looks like it started to turn into a track car but never got finished. Good to know about the cert, I'll ask about that for sure

Are there any roadworthiness issues around cutting the cage out? The rego may be on hold but I'm worried about taking it in for a wof and being told something like "nah this has had a cage in it, it'll never go on the road again" 

If a car has a rego and a cage, is there anything about cutting the cage out that would jeopardize the road legality?