mjrstar

^^ I have on-forwarded the PM I got from Mikuni

Something around the M16-M20 80mm long dynabolts would be about right I reckon..

I'm no expert but I'd say it would depend on shed design, ie: if you have a wooden poled shed you could just have a dirt floor..whereas if you were fixing a steel framed shed to a concrete base things would need be pretty solid

But as a minimum bank on 100-120mm thick with re-enforcing,and possibly deeper (maybe 300mm)around the footings.

(beware this is just my estimation)

Oh yeah he's coming back... Also doing drainage for storm water and sinking the water tank in, probably should get ditch done for the power if he brings back a skinney bucket..

The same dude/company does the concrete so he still has some work to do...

^^ A bit late perhaps....

\

giving the carb a bit more lean means that it will start when hot now..

also new plate

no doubt some will not approve of ditching the black plates, but it's not exactly a mint mk1 with period mods so I'm happy enough to jam a white plate on there...

^^ yeah, although kind of hoping that since I already have 2 double garages, the new 3 bay barn should keep me happy for a while...

Thanks for the PM, I will continue to look around/chat to people...

oh yeah waikato sheds, not the cheapest but seem to be the most efficient comprehensive regarding material quality and an all up build cost.. unsure who they get to erect it...ended up going for a 10x8 barn style, would have loved a 12x12 but space in the paddock where I wanted would not quite allow...

Well after a bit of a paperwork mission with the council (over land size and shed location) i am hoping to have some earthworks starting next week..

Looks like it's going to cost a bit more than expected just stuff you don't normally think about like drainage for stormwater etc..

Spoke to Sinco customs the other day, they are talking 1600+gst for a basic 6 point tig welded job which didn't seem too bad...

^^ link doesn't really tell us much??

Well if it's non turbo and the cooling system is in ok nick, just rock the old bolts I say.. But then again it's not going to be me stranded on the side of the road with steam pouring from the bonnet.. more likely head softness and warpage will be an issue compared to stretched head bolts not maintaning the torque..

If they are a straight 75 FTLBS (which seems a bit high to me) the shortest ones should be ok... It's when they suggest 45ft lbs then 90 degrees rotation that you really need to chuck them in the bin..

I have re-used my 1G ones in the past and run 20 psi boost with no failures, although i realise M series do carry a bit of a BHG stigma with them, also are you trying to remedy a past BHG? or is it a head replacement for fun?

^^ and about a squillion dollars?? (well unless you know someone at Toyota)

Chuck up the thread pitch, diameter and grip length etc....

Standard old Toyota BS, I had mega issues getting shit for my boat anchor/1G (like $2900 for a set of rings) But I would not pay for ARP unless they are A: Cheap, or B: you are trying to extract mega HP from the engine.

In the end it's just a threaded stud and a certain length, there WILL be other options out there.

You might find a 4age/1jz/4g63/whatever has the same size stud which will do the trick.

Details on specific torquing procedure, if they are torque to yield then please replace.

If not then just re-use.

you may also find that there are after-market replacement studs that are a similar sizing (minimal grip length difference) so it may be worth digging a little deeper.

There will be other shit that interchanges between different flavour engines.

^^ sounds like BS(or extremely nana-spec) unless it's multiplied by a 1.5 ratio rocker or similar??

Sounds like it'd do the trick...

I'm sure it'd make 200kw on a 2 litre twin cam 16 valve, although not too sure about an SOHC 8v, although maybe it would with the right cam and head mods etc.. My 1g had a similar turbo on it a few years back and made 190 kw at 13 psi.

I also think you'll need to stick to this sort of size it you want to maintain early spool without going twin scroll.

You'll probably find that IF the .48 chokes it up too much the .63 housing could be brought by itself swapped over, if they use the same wheels.

The T25 really is a tiny flange, it would put a fair bit of restriction in the system. Size wise what he has listed will be slightly smaller than a factory TD05-16g from an Evo.

http://www.frantik.co.nz/MasterPowerT04E.html

I have this T04E T300 STG 1 with the .63 rear housing.

Oh hey,

If you wanted one of those TD05HR's is a good condition one on MMC for $400 with manifold and I might have a spare brand new TD05 inlet flange or you can buy them on trademe? Plus you should be able to sell the manifold for a bit?

we used to hoon one of these in the late 90's it was epic with a massive bonnet scoop and skull/crossbones on the doors... also please install civic distributor for epic ignition reliability.

http://www.niksula.hut.fi/~mdobruck/sii ... ien/dizzy/

there are a few different ways to do it above is just one method, i reckon the electronic ignition was the best mod i did on my mini.

FYI the EN1 civic dizzy and external ignitor pretty much run the cooper s advance curve.

Be warned, this will almost certainly be the slowest car in the universe.. also i believe these (or possibly the earlier model) ran vacuum powered wipers, which is not ideal when you have the accellerator mashed to get the car to move..

Should be a laugh though and looks pretty solid..

I have one, the build quality is pretty good (it has been apart and looked at) and size wise they are closely based on early garrets.

You won't see any fancy lightweight titanium aluminide turbine wheels but if you plan to run less than 2 bar / 28 psi boost they will work just fine.

PM Barry (BAZDA) on Toyspeed, he may do you a sharp deal as he is an agent for them.

I very much doubt there would be enough temp compensation in the system to cope with running the AFM after the turbo, you should be fine with a good quality vent to atmosphere BOV so long as it's not leaking at idle.. (it may run a tiny bit rich when changing gears). also the transient back/forward air flow may well damage it the AFM. I'd suggest you leave it pre turbo for best results.

Chuck a multimeter on the injectors, somewhere around 2 ohms is low imp and high imp will be nearer 11 ohms.

I'm not even going to comment on power, other than the fact that a drop in 255 l/hr walbro fuel pump will be more than enough fuel unless you are chasing 300+ kw.

My original plan for twin rails on my starlet involved half a dozen bosses that look like the ones in the top of this pic..

Pretty sure i still have a couple of them floating around..

I have the same model, but red.. It will be fine for panel steel, struts and a bit of exhaust work.. It will overheat on long runs on setting D.

the gun and feed system seem ok for the money.. mine has had a reasonable amount of use and has not failed me.

I'd suggest the accessories like the wire brush and welding mask/shield should go straight in the bin.

Probably a pretty sharp price as I think I paid nearer to 400 with the gas regulator