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mjrstar

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Posts posted by mjrstar

  1. Agreed with cletus you will need to use both ports, blocking off 1 port will just allow pressure to build in the blocked off portion of the m/c and you will end up with bugger all/no braking performance from the port which is in use.

    Also basically for a road car there is no such thing as a master cylinder which is too big. The bigger they are the higher and firmer the pedal will be (which is awesome)

  2. good work,

    Just a little FYI, if you find some evo 1-3 rear coil overs you will have a similar length set-up and will have a normal eye end instead of the stirrup style bottom mount that the evo 4 onwards ones have.. Might be worth looking in to?

  3. yes the pad is 10x8, I think it looks odd because the fence in the background follows the contour of the ground.. as for the pricing, I have extended that a bit (quite a bit) the shed build cost is 33k to lock-up stage this included uprating the internal roof girders to allow for no central posts. ( I reckon this will be well worth the cost to have a full clear span inside) but there is extra for storm-water drainage and driveway access to keep the council happy.

    I'll also be putting a few metres of concrete out the front. Yes I would have loved to build a 12x12m shed but I was unkeen to have to jam it right in the middle of the paddock. The 10x8 gives the minimum distance to the boundary and has sufficient clearance of the septic drainage lines on the other side.

    8M deep means I can easily get the mini and the starlet in nose to tail if needs be and have more than 1.5m clearance to the end of the shed. It will also allow for a decent bench and a normal car without having to squeeze past. I did look at 11M x 7M as another option but i would have run out of room ,and also price up a high stud mono pitch versus the barn style, there is very little difference in price.

    Waikato sheds seem to be up front with all costs compared to the likes of versatile who like to hide their pricing a bit.

  4. ^^ link doesn't really tell us much??

    Well if it's non turbo and the cooling system is in ok nick, just rock the old bolts I say.. But then again it's not going to be me stranded on the side of the road with steam pouring from the bonnet.. more likely head softness and warpage will be an issue compared to stretched head bolts not maintaning the torque..

  5. If they are a straight 75 FTLBS (which seems a bit high to me) the shortest ones should be ok... It's when they suggest 45ft lbs then 90 degrees rotation that you really need to chuck them in the bin..

    I have re-used my 1G ones in the past and run 20 psi boost with no failures, although i realise M series do carry a bit of a BHG stigma with them, also are you trying to remedy a past BHG? or is it a head replacement for fun?

  6. Standard old Toyota BS, I had mega issues getting shit for my boat anchor/1G (like $2900 for a set of rings) But I would not pay for ARP unless they are A: Cheap, or B: you are trying to extract mega HP from the engine.

    In the end it's just a threaded stud and a certain length, there WILL be other options out there.

    You might find a 4age/1jz/4g63/whatever has the same size stud which will do the trick.

  7. Details on specific torquing procedure, if they are torque to yield then please replace.

    If not then just re-use.

    you may also find that there are after-market replacement studs that are a similar sizing (minimal grip length difference) so it may be worth digging a little deeper.

    There will be other shit that interchanges between different flavour engines.

  8. Sounds like it'd do the trick...

    I'm sure it'd make 200kw on a 2 litre twin cam 16 valve, although not too sure about an SOHC 8v, although maybe it would with the right cam and head mods etc.. My 1g had a similar turbo on it a few years back and made 190 kw at 13 psi.

    I also think you'll need to stick to this sort of size it you want to maintain early spool without going twin scroll.

    You'll probably find that IF the .48 chokes it up too much the .63 housing could be brought by itself swapped over, if they use the same wheels.

  9. The T25 really is a tiny flange, it would put a fair bit of restriction in the system. Size wise what he has listed will be slightly smaller than a factory TD05-16g from an Evo.

    http://www.frantik.co.nz/MasterPowerT04E.html

    I have this T04E T300 STG 1 with the .63 rear housing.

    Oh hey,

    If you wanted one of those TD05HR's is a good condition one on MMC for $400 with manifold and I might have a spare brand new TD05 inlet flange or you can buy them on trademe? Plus you should be able to sell the manifold for a bit?

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