mjrstar

Agreed with cletus you will need to use both ports, blocking off 1 port will just allow pressure to build in the blocked off portion of the m/c and you will end up with bugger all/no braking performance from the port which is in use.

Also basically for a road car there is no such thing as a master cylinder which is too big. The bigger they are the higher and firmer the pedal will be (which is awesome)

I'd be thinking the sensor should be located on the engine rather than the rad? would give a more true/meaningful reading.

I have seen some cars which are bloody hot at the top and can comfortably hold hand on at the bottom, you might find once the bottom is warm enough to switch the fan on it's a bit too late?

good work,

Just a little FYI, if you find some evo 1-3 rear coil overs you will have a similar length set-up and will have a normal eye end instead of the stirrup style bottom mount that the evo 4 onwards ones have.. Might be worth looking in to?

For sure not a cheap project, I have a few bucks stashed away so no need to borrow the money.

Fingers crossed it should look something like this:

http://www.waikatosheds.co.nz/images/ga ... ge/163.jpg

Also my thoughts are turning to floor prep, IE: do I go for some 2 pot concrete paint to keep it tidy or is there something better out there?

yes the pad is 10x8, I think it looks odd because the fence in the background follows the contour of the ground.. as for the pricing, I have extended that a bit (quite a bit) the shed build cost is 33k to lock-up stage this included uprating the internal roof girders to allow for no central posts. ( I reckon this will be well worth the cost to have a full clear span inside) but there is extra for storm-water drainage and driveway access to keep the council happy.

I'll also be putting a few metres of concrete out the front. Yes I would have loved to build a 12x12m shed but I was unkeen to have to jam it right in the middle of the paddock. The 10x8 gives the minimum distance to the boundary and has sufficient clearance of the septic drainage lines on the other side.

8M deep means I can easily get the mini and the starlet in nose to tail if needs be and have more than 1.5m clearance to the end of the shed. It will also allow for a decent bench and a normal car without having to squeeze past. I did look at 11M x 7M as another option but i would have run out of room ,and also price up a high stud mono pitch versus the barn style, there is very little difference in price.

Waikato sheds seem to be up front with all costs compared to the likes of versatile who like to hide their pricing a bit.

It's a bit of a shithouse day here but it looks like the concrete is a goer...

^^ I have on-forwarded the PM I got from Mikuni

Something around the M16-M20 80mm long dynabolts would be about right I reckon..

I'm no expert but I'd say it would depend on shed design, ie: if you have a wooden poled shed you could just have a dirt floor..whereas if you were fixing a steel framed shed to a concrete base things would need be pretty solid

But as a minimum bank on 100-120mm thick with re-enforcing,and possibly deeper (maybe 300mm)around the footings.

(beware this is just my estimation)

Oh yeah he's coming back... Also doing drainage for storm water and sinking the water tank in, probably should get ditch done for the power if he brings back a skinney bucket..

The same dude/company does the concrete so he still has some work to do...

^^ A bit late perhaps....

\

giving the carb a bit more lean means that it will start when hot now..

also new plate

no doubt some will not approve of ditching the black plates, but it's not exactly a mint mk1 with period mods so I'm happy enough to jam a white plate on there...

^^ yeah, although kind of hoping that since I already have 2 double garages, the new 3 bay barn should keep me happy for a while...

Thanks for the PM, I will continue to look around/chat to people...

oh yeah waikato sheds, not the cheapest but seem to be the most efficient comprehensive regarding material quality and an all up build cost.. unsure who they get to erect it...ended up going for a 10x8 barn style, would have loved a 12x12 but space in the paddock where I wanted would not quite allow...

Well after a bit of a paperwork mission with the council (over land size and shed location) i am hoping to have some earthworks starting next week..

Looks like it's going to cost a bit more than expected just stuff you don't normally think about like drainage for stormwater etc..

Spoke to Sinco customs the other day, they are talking 1600+gst for a basic 6 point tig welded job which didn't seem too bad...

^^ link doesn't really tell us much??

Well if it's non turbo and the cooling system is in ok nick, just rock the old bolts I say.. But then again it's not going to be me stranded on the side of the road with steam pouring from the bonnet.. more likely head softness and warpage will be an issue compared to stretched head bolts not maintaning the torque..

If they are a straight 75 FTLBS (which seems a bit high to me) the shortest ones should be ok... It's when they suggest 45ft lbs then 90 degrees rotation that you really need to chuck them in the bin..

I have re-used my 1G ones in the past and run 20 psi boost with no failures, although i realise M series do carry a bit of a BHG stigma with them, also are you trying to remedy a past BHG? or is it a head replacement for fun?

^^ and about a squillion dollars?? (well unless you know someone at Toyota)

Chuck up the thread pitch, diameter and grip length etc....

Standard old Toyota BS, I had mega issues getting shit for my boat anchor/1G (like $2900 for a set of rings) But I would not pay for ARP unless they are A: Cheap, or B: you are trying to extract mega HP from the engine.

In the end it's just a threaded stud and a certain length, there WILL be other options out there.

You might find a 4age/1jz/4g63/whatever has the same size stud which will do the trick.

Details on specific torquing procedure, if they are torque to yield then please replace.

If not then just re-use.

you may also find that there are after-market replacement studs that are a similar sizing (minimal grip length difference) so it may be worth digging a little deeper.

There will be other shit that interchanges between different flavour engines.

^^ sounds like BS(or extremely nana-spec) unless it's multiplied by a 1.5 ratio rocker or similar??

Sounds like it'd do the trick...

I'm sure it'd make 200kw on a 2 litre twin cam 16 valve, although not too sure about an SOHC 8v, although maybe it would with the right cam and head mods etc.. My 1g had a similar turbo on it a few years back and made 190 kw at 13 psi.

I also think you'll need to stick to this sort of size it you want to maintain early spool without going twin scroll.

You'll probably find that IF the .48 chokes it up too much the .63 housing could be brought by itself swapped over, if they use the same wheels.

The T25 really is a tiny flange, it would put a fair bit of restriction in the system. Size wise what he has listed will be slightly smaller than a factory TD05-16g from an Evo.

http://www.frantik.co.nz/MasterPowerT04E.html

I have this T04E T300 STG 1 with the .63 rear housing.

Oh hey,

If you wanted one of those TD05HR's is a good condition one on MMC for $400 with manifold and I might have a spare brand new TD05 inlet flange or you can buy them on trademe? Plus you should be able to sell the manifold for a bit?