mjrstar

i had thought about this series too, it seems if you are mates with someone who is in charge you can have the rules bent for you.. I'm thinking i might send the dude afew pictures to see if it's worthwhile doing some more mods to the car ...

Just saw this, I might jump in the car and head out... won't be an old car they are still all in auckland. I'll be in my rather untidy silver evo.

Nah i don't know what cam it had in it when it was first built.

I'd suggest the 286 is probably a bit wild for a road car, unless you don't mind having to dial up around 2500 rpm to get the car moving. (the big wheels don't help)

My mate had a 1293 with 731 cam and a pair if 1 1/4 carbs, it had a really nice torquey feel to it. Pretty sure it made around 50kw atw.

The 286 really needs 7000+ rpm to be making the most of it. I'm hoping the 296 will pull nicely to around 8k but time will tell.

http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motor ... 965301.htm

Not sure $1800 would be enough to make it track worthy..

Kinda liking the pin striping, maybe I'll put some back on SUPR6

pretty sweet machine and way less butchered than the red machine parked in my shed.

^ Amen. Even the 47 year old NA 1500cc Cortina pushrod could see you at a whisker under 200kmph on the beginning of the dip into the hairpin at Pukekohe. Gawd knows how fast a modern turbo engine would take you

My 1g turbo starlet would red-line in 5th at 225 well before the kink in the back straight. (4.3 diff)

I have since changed to a 3.9 which has seen over 240kph. The poor old bodyshell doesn't like it judging by the gaps that open up at the tops of the doors.

1j turbo's are coming down in price?

although big turbo diesel sounds like a pretty cool option.

The latest WOF craze seems to be to ping any steel within 300mm of a seatbelt anchorage as "structural".

If you are planning on some trimming up some holes to fit speakers or whatever i'd look at other options.

Anthing like a 4age corolla/lein or vtak civic/crx etc pod intake and exhaust mods.

Extinguisher (or 2).

a set of semi slicks and decent pads.

Rollcage, seat, harness.

A decent set of shocks and maybe some springs.

^^ in that order.

If funds permit a few stickers under the bonnet for extra top end power.

Go to track days and practice.

Dodgysam: that one of yours has a blody nice wheel choice, i went cheap on mine and got some ex escort rims filled and drilled. Makes me want to do to a tougher looking rim.

Forced:

I had thought about a 4efte (gt starlet motor) but decided I like the sound of the Highly strung A series with a big cam and not too much in the exhaust department. 1/2 the fun is not knowing what you'll have to fix to get to your destination. the only time i have been properly straneded was the day it dropped a valve.

On all other occasions i've found something on the pre-flight inspection, or whilst tinkering with something else.

One amusing incident involved the wiper wiring loom catching fire and melting through my plastic oil pressure gauge hose. That took a bit of fiddling to get home without calling for backup.

or the time when it decided it needed to jam itself in 3rd gear, not ideal trying to pull out in to traffic with a grumpy engine, jumpy clutch and only 1 gear. then driving at 6500rpm in 3rd to keep up with the flow of traffic.

It's that sort of stuff that makes old cars more fun.

AFM would cause it to die at anything after idle, as it doesn't realize it needs to add more fuel. So will have similar symptoms.

Flatmate reckons the TPS is the most likely culprit.

I have done this on my evo to prime up the new turbo, sure it doesn't idle pretty but a partly cracked throttle will make it run..

VERY unlikely injectors are blocked enough to cause.

What else have you done to the car lately?

Sounds like a lack of fuel to me, check pump voltage and pull off fuel return and see how much flow you have got.

Might pay to check fuel filter too.

Afm and map failure should allow it to start fine and then idle like crap, more throttle will generally make it run (slightly better) the symptoms lead me down the path of the fuel system having a bug.

Quality of the tint film is the key, I have chatted to a couple of tinting pro's and they both said that repco-supercrap tilnt film is just junk and the end result will reflect this.

I have done my own and found getting nice edges to be the most difficult part.

so engine wise it was an expensive engine rebuild, it needed new rods, crank, pistons, plus all the usual junk, the engine was already .0020" over so was sitting at 1293 cc.

The decision was made to go to .0060" to take it our to 1330cc. the "race" head i already had got sat away in the corner ready for the bottom end to be rebuilt. the bottom end was balanced up including a metro clutch setup modded to take a heavier clutch diaphram.

The resulted in a clutch plat that was almost too thick to properly release. and full engagement about 2cm from the floor. As you can imagine a bitey clutch soon saw the end of the first set of uni's. So i upgraded to cooper s uni's. which also did not last too long.

The next step was to go to a metro diff (sick of changing Uni's and i had callopsed diff output bearing) and metro C.Vs. not long after this my flash head with oversize valves decided it didn't want the valves to stay in the head and promptly tore a head off the stem.

This of course led to a very sad looking piston.

from there the valve spring pressures were measured and they were running WAY too much spring pressure. So the head got all new oversized valves and the spring pressures set up properly. Whilst in there the ports got a bit of a teflon coat to keep things slipperey.

For the next 2 years the car developed an appetite for starter motors, crank seals, distributors, alternators, carbs etc. So I kept replacing these bits and used the car as a weekend fun car. I did the civic dizzy replacement which works nicely, but then the gearbox idler case (where the starter bolts on) decided to split open a bit, since then the car has been parked up on blocks in the corner of my garage. I start it now and then to keep it healthy.

I'm probably just making this project thread up to try and get enthused about the little beast and get back to tearing up back-roads on sunday afternoons.

Talk it up.

Talky here: viewtopic.php?f=18&t=22717

Well this all started out in 1999 as a fibreglass fronted roll-caged race car I had which was de-seamed and not getting a lot of use, so the plan was hatched to find a road going shell to put all the bits in to.

In Renwick I found a reasonably rust free 850 mini complete with wand change gearbox and red interior. The first step was fit the widened steelies with sticky Yokohama a008’s I had and attempt to destroy the original motor and box.

After a few weeks the engine had not died, but it was well down on compression, so it was out with the old and in with the not quite so old.

Travelling through Levin at midnight the engine developed such a loud knock that the massive sterio would not drown it out…

This was the start of the project proper.

What followed a full bare metal re-spray, 4 pot metro brakes, flares, 13’’ wheels and the worlds most expensive ‘a’ series engine rebuild.

Sorry all the progress pics for this are on film as I wasn’t rich enough to own a digi cam back in the early 2000’s

it looks a bit like this today (although probably with a bit more dust on it)

Currently the car is awaiting a shiny new 296 kent cam with matching oil pump, which has been sitting on a shelf in my shed for nearly 12 months..

The reground 286 scattercam copy really does not hit the spot even though the idle sounds awesome.

well i'm awaiting some new thrust bearings to be sourced, i might have to get some made from scratch or machined down form a bigger bearing. so the block is a bit lonely looking like this:

and the head got some love once i had modified my spring compressors..

Thats about all until the thrust washers magically appear, no shiny high spec stuff just a basic factory rebuild, possibly with the 3 layer steel headgasket I have stashed somewhere.

i think you'll need to unwind the balljount from the rack end so you can hit more towards in the inside surface, it looks like thefront surface has seen enough anger, also try hitting as low down (near the rubber boot) as you can.

I have had a couple that were too stubborn for a normal hammer but had great success with the back of the axe.

i'm pretty sure someone mentioned above jacking the bottom control arm up a bit to change the angle the tie rod is sitting on.

Dammed slow post.. What he said above^^^

Is it still running Vacuum advance? if so disconnect it and see if it helps.

i did some running around looking for new crank thrust washers today and i have an engine builder man who can make me some if he can't find any to do the trick. No listings from bearing companys.

in other news i gave the slugs a bit of a clean up.. they have been sitting in a box for a fair few years now.

Also had a fiddle around under the car with a tape measure now that i have accurate measurements on how big a 1j is plus the size of the J-W bellhousing , and it looks like a LOT of hassle unless my car grows 100mm even with the water pump removed the block would sit about 30mm forward of the radiator.

I guess i need to carry on with the 1G buils after all.

Awsome! what barand and full profile are those tyres?

Tyres on that one are 205/50/15 dunlop 02G (mediums). they were the control tyre for targe up until 2 years ago when they switched to 03G's.

I have a set of both 03 and 02's for my *cough* evo *cough* they do make for a nice sticky road tyre if you can put up with the high wear rate and uber road noise.

as for finding bits to repair 1g's well yeah it seems like it's up there with rocking horse shit, although with some 4k big end bearings, 3s mains have got that part of the equation sorted..

I like Bug-Eye Starlets and although that bulge on the bonnet is for the turbo because it's not able to go anywhere else... it looks horrific. Still though, a straight 6 in a Starlet is fucking magic

The bulge is far from ideal, I'd love to go to a smaller twin scroll turbo on a low mount manifold and fit the spare mint bonnet i have stashed.

The problem with the car on the whole is that it's been built to work rather than look pretty, which of course i am now regretting.

I guess mounting the turbo in the boot might make it a bit laggy.

Discuss away.

Also after your thoughts on just making it into a dedicated race car and turfing the 1G in favour of something else?

so i got sick of the nasty fwd offset wheels + spacers so i cheaped out on some sport max 15x8 0 offset with my 205 semi slicks.

not sure i went down the right path here but decided some fibreglass flares might cover the rubber a bit..

the finished product.

needs more low but i need to trim the guards before it finds it's way closer to the ground, not too keen on shredding the semi slicks for sake of a couple of inches of ride height.

He's got a G4 I think, as for the heat on the sensor, I didn't explain myself fully, nothing to do with the readings etc, the info I have tells me the sensors will last MUCH longer if the engine is run only when the sensor is hot.

I'm guessing shit sticks to or effects the sensors life in some other means.

Is there audible knock on rotas?