mjrstar

http://yellow.co.nz/companies/Gaskets/G ... 8_895.html

this dude made me a replacement steel/carbon headgasket for about $160 for a 6 cyilnder a couple of years back, He made a prety decent job. I just needed to provide the original gasket(s), although he has templates for common stuff..

^^ thanks man, that was bloody quick service..

^^ that should look suitably odd....

Any chance someone can jam these wheels

preferably without the yuck centres

onto my starlet:

I'm looking for a second set of disposable / replaceable track rims

^^ I think 3 acres in wellington would be well outside of my budget..

i had a dude try to fail me on having clear indicator lights on the front of my mini..

FFs thay are factory, then he couldn't get his head around the fact that it runs a dual filament bulb in it to do indicator and park light..

Muppets. need more wof inspectors that actually know about old cars etc.

I fear i'll be in the same boat for loud exhaust, no rev lights and window washers at my next WOF check..

I had mine done a while back from driveshaft specialists.. he did a nice job at what i thought was a sharp price, he is not north of the bridge though.

http://www.finda.co.nz/business/listing ... ts-nz-ltd/

My mate had one done there also, there was an issue with the length which the bloke sorted free of charge. (unsure who got the dimensions wrong)

Looking to spend 25k-30k on a decent sized shed (probably 3 bay barn) suitable to fit a hoist and have a concrete floor. Open to listen to experiences people have had or any pitfalls I might come up against.

I'm not really looking to do any of the work myself but just looking for best value for money, so let me know if xxxx company was great/rubbish and things you'd do differently if you were to build a new shed.

Cheers

Matt

following on from KPR's statement is there a standard list of what each letter is supposed to mean.

The suspension is listed as "H-D" it's not a 4x4 offroad machine so it's hardly likely to stand for heavy duty.

I found the windscreen installation pretty easy in my starlet.. Also those are some pretty flash sunnies you have there..

Is there any starter motor clearance issues? I know we had dramas on my mates mk1 cortina beams conversion.

Although the W series box and bell he had meant that the starter was on the oppisite side to normal.

I put a few more k's on the car, seems to have is usual get up and go in the 4500 RPM + range, although i didn't want to beat on it too much just yet...

One minor hiccup which involved throwing off and intercooler hose which I didn't bother fixing (only about 6k's from home) so the car had a decidedly n/a feel and lack of grunt when this happened..

It's been a while since I have driven this thing in anger but it sure scared the shit out of me arcing up the back wheels in 3rd on the bumpy Waikato roads, even at a mild 11psi boost. Whilst trying to keep it under 6000rpm for engine running in purposes...

FXXCK knows what 20psi will feel like with this turbo setup!!

Well today I went through my shim collection, I now have the tightest gap at .12mm which is not too far off. the best bit is that the car now behaves itself. normal idle and pulls smoothly... (It had 2 exhaust valves with no clearance)

Friggin stoked hi 5's all round etc... the turbo is making about 6psi at 3000RPM but feels a bit sad running 11psi spring pressure and i suspect the external is cracking open slightly at nearer 8psi...

If the boost controller wasn't so difficult to operate I'd have that set up to run very slightly more that standard pressure.. Currently has a 16PSI and 20PSI setting which is probably a bit much for the fresh engine.

Also slightly odd is the cold start tune seems to be super rich... not sure what the go is there.. I'm not going to get too phased about that until it's got a few more k's on it..

I reckon an evo 4 up turbo outlet hose MIGHT work in that spot. It should be easy enough to find one pretty cheaply, sadly my google skills atr too shithouse to find you a picture of the hose i'm talking about...

I'd steer clear of the rad hose if at all possible..I'd say it would only a matter of time before it turns to cheese...

EDIT.. Go trademe..

Shit that was quick I'll have a measure up when I get home. from memory they will be nearer to 20 m mm.

I guess I shouldn't have taken my old drive shaft to the tip I had a w series to hilux that was in my bug before I decided to get a massive one made out of brand new bits

Hey if someone has a 4age one handy to chuck a ruler across that would be great on the off chance that they are the same.

thanks

My 1 piece drive shaft was about 500 built from scratch. As for the radiator I'm using an old celica one with the tanks modified. Seems to keep it cool.

Wow looks like they come in heaps of different sizes.

Pretty sure they are the same as st185 3sge's (different from the 4age ones though) from memory they come in 3 different thicknesses.

It's not wanting to idle and is generally feeling like the ignition is miles retarded. It runs with a bit of a miss below 2500rpm but seems reasonably smooth (although down on power) higher up in the rev range. i'm only running 1 bar of boost but it does feel a bit laggy. I'm having dramas getting a timing light on it but i'd say it's close enough to not be the problem.

I have freshly rebuilt the motor but i could not find any skinnier shims for the valve buckets hence why this is making me believe that things are a bit tight in there? Had less than the .2mm specified by the manual.

It is properly tuned etc from the last motor.

Has anyone else had a drama with tight valve clearances and what sort of issues they had.. Also any suggestions as to what might be the problem. I'm tempted to not drive it too much more in case i end up burning out a valve or 2..

Fuel pressure seems about right within 1-2 PSI.

Can i get the shims surface ground and re-hardened?

Cheers

the x member is spaced down 12mm.

I have been thinking about the spacing down of the cross-member, do you reckon there is any downside to it in regard to steering rack position and angle of the lower suspension ams..

This is going to be a pretty nice machine when it's finished..

Oh yeah, did you sell that turbo'd open top machine I liked the look of?

mine was 2.5 over the diff, running pretty low with the hilux setup. The driveshaft/diff head was touching the floorpan before I have any major problems. I would avoid under diff setup if you can..

Still think 3 inch is overkill on an n/a. My old 3 litre mivec diamante made 150 wheel kilowatts on a 2 1/4 factory system...

I'd go 2.5" , my starlet wasn't particularly choked up making 245KW atw out of a 2.5'' mandrel bent system. (it made 15kw more with the exhaust disconnected) Plus 3'' will be a total bastard around the diff.

If you use a decent pressed steel offset muffler and it should be nice and quiet.

a lenght of 2.5 won't cost a lot the money is in the flexi's and bends / labour if you are paying someone to do it.

Time for a jumper lead style bench test I believe..

Did yours have a B series engine? or was it OHC?

Mine were all B powered and I am 99% all of them had inertia starters but I think a mates old E series powered one had a throw out starter.

Mine was a 1977 model of 1.8 pushrod-ness. It did have a rebuilt starter when i got it so maybe it had been fitted with something different.

Mine looks like the top one, rather than the bottom one...

In that case ignore my previous post, it sounds like the mini one will work for you....

From memory though a mini starter will fit,

Unlikely that the mini s/m will fit, it is a inertia pull type and the marina (well at least the one I had) was a conventional throw out type. The Mini has an external solenoid and the marina has a built in solenoid which will also make life difficult.

Mini one below.

and the marina type (well at least what was fitted to mine)

Unless the later model ones a different??