mjrstar

No takers huh, looks like I'll just whack the drive in at a suitable position to slot the dizzy back in so that TDC #1 gives puts the rotor arm facing the lead for #1 plug terminal.

sounds like it could be noisy lifters, maybe try a screwdriver up to your ear to narrow down the source of the noise...

All good thanks chaps, I also now have my own.

So the initial hover car tests have gone quite well...

I have the engine and box out, and managed to fill up the car with water whilst giving the engine bay a waterblast, this will not turn into the epic rebuild, just a quick tidy up..(it still seems odd ripping out a prefectly healthy running engine)

the new box seems pretty good with the shifter connected, although the gate seems VERY close between 3rd at 1st.. so that could be a bit of a trap..

I have hit a few of the bits with the wire wheel, i did think about getting some stuff powdercoated, but i know the engine will just coat all this crap in oil in no-time so there really is stuff all point.

The clutch is still mint so it'll see another round, although the flywheel was a total B@$tard to get off (again) I bent by home made puller which is made out of 8mm plate..

Hopefully it'll be back on the road in a couple of weeks time.

So I wacked the new cam in the mini today but i'm not 100% happy with the timing, it seems like it needs the cam wheel marks 180 degrees out to give compression TDC on #1 cylinder. (fixed position camshaft gears)

I have not ajusted down the tappets as yet....

This is probably not a big deal, although it's made me a bit unsure as to where I should be putting the distributor drive back in. (the 2 o'clock position)

Do I put it in at TDC#1 Compression,(markd showing 180 degrees out) or with the crank and cam pulley alignment marks adjacent.

Car in question is my 1275 based mini engine, with a brand new 296 Kent MD camshaft on a non adjustable twin row timing gear.

Cheers

Matt

^^ Yeah there seems to be a few stories out there about the various 1G pistons... Let me know if you are consideering a rebuild, I have done a fair bit of research on the easiest bits to source, and I'm pretty sure I have a spare custom made 3 layer headhasket stashed somewhere...

the 1G+t is a viable option, mine was running 20 psi (and occasionally 24psi) and took a serious beating at some track days.

I pulled it to bits as i thought i had damaged something, but as it turned out it was a small bit of turbo impaled in the head causing a mild tapping noise.

The problem with these motors tends to be oil lube on #1 and #6 big ends, don't skimp on oil and filter changes, and keep under 7500rpm and it'll be all super..

another issue with the +t will be the oil feed for the turbos, the oil pressure sender location is on the left hand side, there is probably a picture on my project thread.

http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-par ... 445685.htm

this was pretty well priced, but will not work with the current gearbox (i think)

^^ You really need a dual port wastegate to get the best out of the Norgren relief valve set-up, although they can work like a normal old boost tap on a single port set-up.

Edit: and look how tucked those wheels are, how the f do they steer without rubbing.

I believe the use of sprung loaded guards may help.. ie: a piece of nylon/teflon for the tyre to rub against which in turn pushes the guard out to give desierd clearance.

undo top engine mount loosen bottom engine mounts and try to lean the motor forward? You should have a bit of give without removing the driveshafts.

^^ I have sent you a PM... Cheers.

Hi Guys,

I'm after a loan of an engine crane/lifter to extract the motor and box out of my mini, happy to provide beers for the privelidge etc..

Alternatively if someone has a second hand one for sale I could also be keen.

Drop me a PM.

Cheers

Matt

Also depending on what area and season then Air con is a must...

^^ Pretty unkeen on a 2nd hand one and running the risk of a minor/major chrush injury? although don't really know too much about the other pro's and cons associated with what you get in different price ranges.

any other than a crummydore or falcoon in oz is failburger, my old VT was cheap as chips to buy and didn't fully fall to bits.

You need to remember that in aussie just down the road is 300km + away and on a 24 litre mini fuel tank that's not quite ideal, and don't get me started on the 3500rpm+ crusing speed.

Maybe the mini could be ok if it was for only around town stuff?

I'm in 2 minds about spending 4-5 k for something that I'd probably use less than a dozen times a year.

We'll see... I might just make some rash decision.

^^ I'd imagine so, I only have a couple of meters running along the front of the workbench and cabinets..

I do need some double sided tape or something to tack it down on the edges a bit

Will it be hard wearing enough to cope with stone rash and mashed in bugs?

Also that stuff can be a bit of haven for moisture/rust.

Wings = Front guards? It will require some reasonably patient/fine surgery to the front seams but can be done...

Please fit a later model Japanese dizzy and never have to look at again.

The carpet is pretty sweet addition...

^^ the costs soon escalate, i was on pretty low wages in the airforce as an 18-19 year old and is sure soaked up most of my spare cash...

Yeah it's not quite as mint as it was 10 years ago when the rebuild was first done, as it spent a 3-4 years ungaraged.

On paper it has a fair few goodies to make decent power but the reground cam has really let it down, sure it sounds cool but is not the 8000rpm screamer it was designed to be.

At least now it has a decent dry home.

My starlet on the cheaparsed sportmaxx's (before i fitted the flares)

I am keen to watch the development of this and see which changes drop times the most.

I dare say (if possible) the best gain in a machine of this spec would be to optimise the gearing through a shorter final drive or closer gearset. Better drop in lap times compared to trying to eek out 30-40 more HP.

Well that and top quality brake pads/ fluid would be also way up there on my list.