mjrstar

^^ well worth the 5 minutes

good work. i Still have not got around to painting the interior in my car..

Looks liike the bill from the powdercoaters could be pretty spendy??

brought a 4x4 off trademe on xmas eve cheap as chips with suspected BHG, even though it had no oil in the water and no water in the oil and didn't overheat.I tightened up the fan belt and chucked some of that diesel conditioner in the tank, used it as a daily for 2 years spent nothing on it and then sold it for 3x what I paid for it.

I suspect that he'd taken it somewhere to trade it an the dealer was attempting to take him for a ride..as they told him about the BHG and only offered him 1800 for a trade.

Not a car story.. but..

I got given almost new weedeater which wouldn't start. Turns out it had no compression due to all 4 head bolts being loose.. Tightened them up and it's still going strong 4 years on..

the 10.5 rear on the evo 8 housing should be a nice combo, i ran the E9 rear on my evo 4 turbo whilst i was waiting for the turbo to be built, it seemed to free up a little bit of top end.

The e9 core has a larger front face than the 4-8 so the comp covers are not interchangeable, also the 9 cover takes up a fair bit more room.. (I had to trim the radiator fan a bit) And interestingly i have a turbine wheel from a 9 turbo runs a super lightweight TI-AL turbine wheel, i have one of these which has a slight bend in the quill shaft so is now ornament spec only which is a bit sad.

If your's is a proper HRA from an RS it should also run the lightweight wheel which is SUPPOSED to improve spool by something like 500RPM??

If the E8 HRA is in good nick and you'd like to save some cash I would reccomend a decent backcut to the current turbine wheel and fit up the same TD06 20g wheel that mine has, you'd only need to machine the compressor cover.

Feel free to drop me a PM if you have any more questions to prevent too much more spammage in this thread.

EDIT DUH, Hey Todd/drftnmaz .... I just figured out who you are

yeah you'd need to know someone who knows someone to get it done for that sort of money... It will go into the 4-8 housing also but the 9 housing has the nice 10.5t exhaust housing and the bigger inlet and compressor cover, which will help flow a little..

evo 4 compressor

evo 9 compressor

My evo has not been properly tuned but is making 229kw at 18 psi on that turbo, with only a walbro fuel pump and home made 3'' exhaust. I'd say the turbo is capable of around 280kw with a bit more boost and a proper tune.

hey mjrstar, what did your TD06SL2R-20G upgrade cost you?

It was around 900 with the rebuild, machining, and the wheels. The evo 9 turbine housing is made out of some pretty tough stuff..

TD05 is a non BB turbo..

Yeah the confusion comes from the lack of GENUINE bits, like I said back in my first post you need to be a bit picky about where you buy the upgraded wheels from..

I believe this is a nice sized upgrade to prevent things tapering off at high RPM but still maintains good spool..

The later model TD turbo from the EVo4 forwards are not upgradable though are they

sure they are.. I run a TD06SL2R-20G setup in an evo 9 turbo.. the back end looks like this...

old

new

Mate had an EB1 AAAAGGGGEEEESSS ago before people spoke of VTEC and i'm reasonably certain his had an gen 1 accord 1500 or 1600 motor from a similar era.

Sorry no REAL details on it other than the fact that even 4 up it would haul ass.. I believe that it was a reasonably straight forward swap??

Probably something similar to this expired listing?

http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing ... 31&ed=true

Sorry for useless post containing no real facts??

+1 for TD05HR working pretty well if you can get the reverse scroll to align with the piping..

Only real downside is that most of the wheel upgrades have to come from china so quality can be a bit questionable.

The evo 9 turbo would be the one to get as the housings are slightly larger but they all basically take the same size wheels. Mitsi did play around with the materials the compressor and turbine wheels were made from.

evo 1-9 compressor

Inducer = 48.3mm

Exducer = 68mm

evo 1-9 turbine

Inducer = 56mm

Exducer = 49.2mm

(Except for E7gta and E6.5 TME which use

Compressor

Inducer = 49.3mm

Exducer = 65mm)

Be warned, the evo 9 tend to dynamite the comressor.. So the next one I get built will probably just use The E9 cores and covers and E4 rotating assembly (which i have recently aquired at a sharp price.)

Oh yeah and the E10 turbo is back to normal rotation (not that you'd bother trying to find one of those)

Pretty sure i have a brand new (spare) compressor wheel (Inducer = 49.3mm Exducer = 65mm) which i would part with if you find a semi dynamited evo turbo, although the compressor cover would need to machined oversize by 1mm to take the wheel..

with the old muffler if you looked from the extractor collector you could see out the other end.. (although that may be pretty common with centre exit exhausts on mini's)

Although you are right it probably won't do the muffler much good..

Yeah the old hand controller is Fxxing painful to do anything other than minor adjustments..

Cheers for the offer,

I might just drop it off for a bit of dyno time to see if I can work around the surge issues.

It's nearly got 200km on it so i'm considering it run in now...

I have one of these which i am very happy with.

http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motor ... 431072.htm

the logworks software supplied with it is easy as to use and gives the ability to datalog on a laptop rather than having to rely on looking at the gauge in real time. although you can just watch the gauge if you wish..

as for position they tend to suggest around 8'' from the turbo and face it downwards if possible.. But it's not too much of a worry, if you consider that tuners get away with putting them up the tail pipe with a shroud to prevent fresh air mixing.

I found a cheap source for the boss was the cast dump pipe from a skyline, they have the correct sized boss that unthreads.. i just welded one of these into the dump pipe.. Although you could probably just use a nut and grind it down to suit.

I had similar issues from a bad batch of gas from a servo.. Car would idle fine but as soon as you put your foot down engine would shudder and vibrate..

Draining all the fuel and starting afresh saw it come right pretty quick...

^^ not too sure on the 4g63 but the 1gge has 10% more lift than the 1ggte it has been proven that the N/A cams make around 30 more HP at high boost.

Had a similar thing happened after selling a car, dude tried to make me pay for repairs after having the car for 6 weeks and doing over 1000k's a week..

I said: I can't help what happens with the car AFTER it leaves my driveway and he was happy to buy the car in the condition it was otherwise he would not have brought it. (or in your case swap)

Buyer beware and do you homework before handing over the cash..

If you wanta warranty on a car you buy it as an EXTRA from those mechanical insurance burglars... FFS even a caryard wouldn't cough up to fix a car after it's sold, so why should you.. The guy does not have a leg to stand on.

minor thread hijack...

I used to have run on issues in my mini..

It has a reasonably large cam(kent 286, and a fair bit of compression 11:1 and a metro hif44 carb)

I have frigged around with the timing and a different carb manifold.. now this new issue is interesting. Around 5 seconds after turning the car off, (now turns off fine with no run0on) there is an almighty POP/BOOM from the exhaust..

It's pretty loud and scared the shit out of me the 1st time it happened.. I'm guessing it's fuel vapour cooking off in the extractors after shut-down..

Is this likely to be doing any damage (other than to my hearing)

well there is this dreamer..

http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing ... =345914365

Pretty sure the serial link and cable is around 170 from link??

I would avoid chinese if at all possible.. although the one i had did last ok.. (decent looking fake garrett with tags etc..)

These t28's seem to produce some decent results.. plus might be in better nick as it'll be newer alternative to 300z turbo..

http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motor ... 132883.htm

but 2nd hand turbos can be pretty hit and miss...

Just looking to set the base timing on the starlet, can do it with either a hand controller, or serial link adaptor and cable if anyone has one. Happy to provide beers for the loanage. To suit older link plus connection.

Please PM me if you are willing to help me out with a loaner.

Cheers

Matt

what about a masterpower turbo?

i've ran a couple, although not for ages, other people have with no problem.

thats what bazdas been running since he stopped using chinese ones.

Yeah I run one of those masterpower jobbies off Barry, it seems pretty well built and they are based on garrett sizings. They are made in brazil.. which has to be a bit better than China, also support for the product will be better if you do need replacement bits.

Just about anything will "work" are you familair nasty hockeystick setup the old zephyrs had..

^^ yeah reasonably keen to get someone in to do it so it doesn't turn to shit / take 3 months.. Will probably have an extra tank for rain water catchment and put a sink in there for hand washing etc..I don't think i'll bother on the toilet side of things as one of the other garages already has a toilet/shower.

Will definately be doing the power side of things, it's not going to be too far from the main house power box.

Currently looking at high stud conventional type sheds vs a barn style with large door in the centre and 2 smaller doors..

could try and find some mirrors off an old honduh city?