mjrstar

I have one if these which came in handy when I did the rollcages in my Mazda and Honda, good for tight spots or small items / areas. I found the smaller tip didn't really suit my normal painting programme of fast an full bore, so I had to adapt a bit.

Foolishly I tried it out on a large panel once, won't do that again, It was painfully slow and nowhere near as even as the normal sized gun..

Pretty sure this is the one..

https://www.autobodytoolmart.com/product/devilbiss-startingline-mini-detail-spray-gun-802405/automotive-paint-guns

10 hours ago, Bling said:

 Neither are SQ5 spec though...

This is the corner I have painted myself in to. Everything is gutless compared to current fleet - sq5, turbo airtrek and modified turbocoon..

I have heard something happens with the Mazdas that causes bore wash and low compression?

Looking for something small SUV type thing for maybe 20k-30k to spend wife is keen on a Ford escape, but these appear to have a dual clutch trans..

What else is out there which is  2016ish onwards similar sized shaped box on wheels but runs conventional torque converter auto. It seems difficult to tell from specs and reviews, but a lot of stuff in this era is DSG. 

There will be something I haven't considered for sure. I guess I could get a second SQ5, but that seems like an odd thing to do.

57 minutes ago, Ned said:

send me the vin and i'll see what the jag portal has on it

Heres therecall:
https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/rcl/2023/RCLRPT-23V369-2384.PDF

Our one needs it

Sounds like you may end up with max charge to 75% ?

Crap photo off my computer screen, alternator doesn't look all that different..

I think the alternator from a 2e is physically smaller but will bolt up to the 1g brackets, long time since I put one onto 1ggte so I'd have to check my facts..

6 minutes ago, datlow said:

Not a old black plate I take it!? 

Nope white, it's been released and is now available, but yeah as a premium plate, so $2499 is too spendy for me..

If I add a letter at the start it becomes a fixed format for $599

Thanks gents.

It's 2 letters and a number which means if it's able to be released it's likely to be expensive... There is a 3 letter 2 number combo that would work to for cheaper..

Perhaps the right place to ask, has anyone had success getting a government issue plate (not mine)which has been deregistered long ago reissued as a personalised plate?

Some sort of additional hidden thermal fuse? / Broken wire.

31 minutes ago, Rhubarb77 said:

 What tyres do you have on your Ute? 

It's had a selection of tyres, from budget through to pirelli pzero, 245 40 19, none last very long, some of the issue in my case can probably be attributed to the leaf spring live axle rear end.

Is this going to be a street car or dedicated drag machine?

If my lightly modified fg turbocoon ute is anything to go by this thing is likely to be a serious handful...

The way the torque piles in from ~2200rpm is insane in these 4 litre engines.

Even with a gentle roll on into the throttle in 4th gear starting at 80kph by the time you get to peak torque at 120kph a few moments later it's properly baking the rear tyres. 

Sounds nasty, if not valve train then could be injector, perhaps unplug one at a time to confirm. Or if you have a scan tool you might see a fuel trim number which is off the charts?

I had similar in my Honda whilst trying to optimise pedal height, back the pedal off so you have a bit more freeplay at the top end of the pedal movement, should be golden.

Does that then mean there is no faff about with starter engagement?

Because non OEM starter placement can be a bit of a pain in the arse to get right as far as teeth engagement and throw out etc.. and if you can eliminate that hurdle it'd be worthwhile.

What diameter is the relief in the crank, can you start them flush by drilling and tapping to m12?

Does that coolant line from the back of the head have a bracket back to the block? I reckon it might need one if it doesn't.

Ooh yeah that isn't going to work..

It kind of looks like the release fork should be in the groove forward of the bearing, as per crude scribble attached? Not right at the back?

Also on my Honda I shimmed the pivot ball outwards, although I had the opposite problem with fine tuning of the clutch engagement window.. this may or may not be an option?

3 bond 1215 for the win, not cheap but worth it. OEM spec for Toyota/Honda etc total bastard to get apart again if you need to.

https://www.repco.co.nz/car-care-panel/adhesives-sealants/gasket-cements/threebond-high-temperature-rtv-silicone-liquid-gasket-250gm-grey-1215-250/p/A1130561

I have found that hylomar required an absolutely immaculate finish to get a good seal, due to the fact it's non setting and pretty thin. The tiniest nick or gouge and you need to find something with a bit more goo to it. Disassembly a breeze generally though.

I have found the BC's pretty good at the lower price point too, perhaps a little limited on dampener adjustment, but no concerns with build quality.

Good news about the intake, the turbos I have definitely are 2 1/4 and 2 1/2 neck. Did you happen to measure the old turbo inlet.. I'm interested, as this could be a suitable intermediate upgrade for my old airtrek turbo..

I vaguely recall an internal rubber sleeve/ ring thing which fits inside the intake to adapt the 2 different sizes, you fit it for the smaller turbo, or put it in the bin for the larger..

That carbon intake thingee looks suitably bling!

You might get the intake to fit if it has a bit of stretch, I think it's about 57mm vs 63mm OD.