Adoom

*rebuilds engine* over REALLY long time. Thanks CAM.

Making new engine mounts. Old ones were a bit not right.

Then on the first or 2nd run at Manfield. BHG

Bores were fucked

#1 and #3 spark plugs had melted electrodes.

So I did this

It's the 4 port head

It needed a rebuild though

Had to move the BOV to before the IC so it didn't vent E85 into the engine bay....

It's the red bit down there.

And a dyno run. Low boost/High Boost.

And I didn't mention I messed around with an aquamist water injection system.

The dyno guys tried putting straight E85 instead of water in it.

Extra 20KW on the same boost!

But the flow from the injector nozzle was not consistent so they suggested replacing it with a fuel injector.

I'm not the best at brazing....

Making the fuel tank for E85

And an oil catch tank

Baby fuel rail for the single injector.

At some point I decided to make a better clutch pedal.

A straight one...

I also put a stop on it, because it was pushing the clutch springs too far and they would touch the clutch plate.

The Starlet speedo cable screws right into the CA18ET gearbox. But it reads ~20% high.

With the link, I could use a PWM speedo and a speed sensor in the box.

I'm cheap/poor, so I tried to find a factory fitted pwm speedo I could use. No such luck.

But a rev counter is pwm. So after very much fucking around I ended up with a rev counter with a speedo faceplate  

It turns out I don't HAVE to have an ODO?!

I made a spider.

It lives on the roof of my house now

And I got a fibreglass bonnet and bumpers.

And I got a better radiator

Then I took it to the dyno and said "can we turn up the boost?".

And they were like "holy shit why hasn't it exploded before now? It goes really lean and starts detonating. You should LINK ECU it."

So I got a link and made a fuel rail to take bigger injectors etc....

Too much torque happened, so better clutch

The replacement shell had rusty doors, bootlid, bonnet, guards and under the wiper motor.

I swapped the bootlid, bonnet(minor straightening required), right guard and I just happened to have one spare guard for the other side.

I fixed the rust in the drivers door frame, but the passenger side was worse so I bought the yellow door.

The box doubles as a handy table.

Discuss: //oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/51323-adooms-1982-kp60-starvia-discussion/

So my project thread started out on Club-K then moved to Toyota Team 80's then Toyspeed. Now here I am.

I'll just put in some historical highlights rather than copying the whole 14 pages/6 years....

I started off in 2005 with a KP61 4 door, for $300 from Pick A Part.

I was all like ermhegerd must have rotoreee because I was in my early 20's.

Then I wanted to get a 4age...

Then a low km CA18ET single cam 1800 turbo from an S12 silvia became available for FREE!!!

Over a period of 3 months THE STARVIA was born.

But after about a year or two, I got rear ended while waiting at an intersection. The car was sandwiched between a big ute and a twat in an accord. The damage was mostly to the shell so I could salvage everything else including some panels. The buy back value of the car according to the insurance company was $300

So the insurance money got me a 2 door with no engine leaving change for UPGRADES!

Upgrades like: LSD, coilovers, a 2nd bucket seat, intercooler.

 

STM said tuning price would be about the same for both units. 

Did they mention what the price might be? Or just "about the same"?

I have a Storm G4 with a CA18DET that I will need to get tuned at some point, in the hopefully near future...

Yeah over time the vibrations and stuff can cause it to fatigue. I'd do as Brick said and box it.

Yeh, I've just been looking at photos of escort crossmembers and they are all boxed in.

no, as long as it is fully insulated

 

my boss used nolathane spring shackle bushes to make his engine mounts. 700hp and they dont show any sign of wear or breaking

Progress.

Pajero lower control arm bushes.

The question I have is, should I gusset the mount on the cross member? It seems pretty solid already.

Like this, or something?

Remove the flywheel and clean the points with some fine sandpaper. That's what was wrong with mine that had been sitting for 20 years. 

 

a suspension bush with a crush tube in it works well for what you are talking about

Does the bush need to be bonded to the crush tube and/or outer metal tube/sleeve thing?

I need to make new engine mounts for my ca18det KP starlet. The current ones are those cotton reel type mounts, so not captive. It is a race car, but I don't really want to go as far as solid mounting the engine. 

I like those escort world cup crossmember ones that have the horizontal bush with a bolt through it. They look reasonably compact and easy to fabricate. 

I came across an old post where Cletus said not to use any old bush because you cannot do it up tight and the hole goes oval, or something like that....

What kind of bush would be suitable? Is there an economical option that does not have $100's of escort/rwd/brandname tax added to something that cost $20 to make?

I know a chick withna rwd ca18det manifold in her shed. Should I inspect it for you

Yes please. If it has no cracks and she wants to sell it, I'd be interested.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Yopcz-IYDyQ

 

this guy shows spark test, if you have access to a buzz box i can send you some nickle rods.

 

dont let them tell you its hard.

Ah, chuckE2009, I like his videos.

Not worth trying to fix it dude. Aftermarket?

An aftermarket one that is not rubbish will probably be several $100's which I don't want to spend. The factory one is supposed to be fairly good.

Does it leak? I have welded cast manifolds before with a mig after grinding a little groove along the crack.

I don't know if it leaks. I've haven't had the engine running let.

The stuff I've found about welding cast iron are all about preheating and special wire.

I imagine that the heat cycling on a turbo manifold over time will crack any weld I make with my mild steel mig wire.

So my ca18det manifold has some cracks.

It has the trypical crack you can see here on this photo I took with a potato

I'm not too worried about this one, the casting on the back of the crack is pretty thick.

The one I am worried about is this one.

There is a bit too much light to see the other side of the crack, but it's right on the left edge of the wet bit. So it goes all the way through.

Is it worth trying to get it fixed? Or do I just keep checking trademe for one and believe them if they say it's got no cracks.

I do have another manifold that is not cracked, but it's FWD, or an early model, which puts the turbo much closer to the block. Too close.

You can see the ruler in the first photo how I measured them. The FWD one is 125mm, the RWD one is 140mm.

Cheers.

I'll have to go to pick a part with the cordless impact gun and my old pulley as a guide. 

So I'm replacing the CA18ET in my Starlet with a CA18DET.

The ET uses a single V belt. The DET uses poly-vee/multi rib thing pulleys.

I only have the alternator with the single V pulley.

Are the poly-vee pulleys pretty standard on nissans? Or are they all sorts of different offsets and diameters?

I don't think this was already suggested. Delete the factory booster with plate thing so you only have the master cylinder. And install a remote booster elsewhere.

Look, the past! //oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/20139-remote-brake-booster/

Mine won't start when the choke is off, even when warm. It runs fine off choke once started. I read something about drilling the idle jet out a bit bigger. Has anyone done that?

Oh yeh, forgot to say I got a much stiffer tensioner spring.

Went for a ride today. Max speed on seal was 57kph according to the GPS! It didn't feel so fast, I guess it's cause it's only doing 3800rpm. Most of the grass was epic muddy, it just skidded all over.