Adoom

I got it warm enough for the thermostat to open, maybe 3 or 4 times, then only running for a few minutes checking for leaks. How would I check the cam bearings are "pissing oil at idle"... All I can see through the filler hole is one lobe. I imagine running the engine with a cam cover off would make a bit of a mess?

I got two new sparkle plugs this morning and put them in making sure the socket was straight. Engine runs MUCH better now. I think I must have dropped the ratchet on those two front plugs and broken them, I'm sure I would have noticed if I broke them when I first put them in. Then I took it off the axle stands and pushed it out into the sunshine and gave it a bath, for the first time in two years! No coolant or oil leaks I can see. The the gauge says the oil pressure is still really high. 60psi at idle and 100psi(max on the gauge) when it's revving higher. I'm 75% sure it was more like 20/60 the first time I started the engine(which is what the manual says it should be). The engine has just been rebuilt. The bearings and oil pump were packed with that white assembly grease stuff, so that is still floating around in there. It has mineral running in oil in it. When I disassembled the oil pump to clean and check the clearances I checked the pressure relief valve was clean and moved easily. What could cause my oil pressure to be so high? I'd rather not have to drop the x-member to take the sump off and examine the oil pump.

So I pulled the spark plugs. And WTF?! Two have cracked insulators?! They are new. I've run the engine maybe 3 times with them in. They certainly did not look like that when I put them in. Any idea how this could have happened?

Mostly sorted the mess of pipes. SO MANY PIPES! Tried starting it again now that the intake pipe is complete. The oil pressure went rather high... All I can think of is the oil pressure/water temp plugs might be mixed up. But it was fine last time... I haven't changed anything.... A bit tight down there... See the timing thingy...

ALL THE FANCE!!

The Link has an input from the ignition "start" position that needs to be live before it will do its thing, like make the sparkle plugs sparkle. Your idea would probably work on something with carbs.

Figured out how I can crank the engine and see the timing marks at the same time.

IT LIVES!!!! So I got it to start and sorted the timing. I used an SR20 base maps, link forums suggested that. Trying to get all the air out of the cooling system. No oil or water leaks so far. It runs rough as. Like it's running on 3. I'll pull the plugs and see what they are like. IC pipe is still not done, I need to modify the bit of pipe that has the BOV, IAC take-off and IAT sensor so it will fit. My turbo oil line still needs shortening, it's 4 or 5 times too long.

Messing around with the plumbing/hoses. I have a shitload of hose clips and about 8 90deg elbows to get some hoses to where they need to go. :/ Got my intercooler back from being modified. Picking up a timing light tonight to have a go setting the base timing/calibrating the triggers. Not sure how I can crank the engine and look at the front pulley timing marks at the same time.... might have to get the gf to assist.

I bought a cheap windows tablet to run pclink on so i can have custom gauges that are in my face. And so i can do logging. I need to make a sturdy but easily removable mount. with velcro straps or something.

Coooooool. How big is it? Can you show us a floor plan? Is it a kit of some kind, or have you done all the design/plans yourself?

Ah, I see the boost leaks out. spose I need that long ugly pipe.

I should have mentioned that the engine has a link ecu and is using a MAP, not an AFM. So if it leaks, it should make no difference if it leaks through its own filter or via the main intake pipe, right?

FYI: Idle Speed Control/Idle Air Control... On my CA18DET I need some crazy snake hose to plump the IAC valve to the intake pipe. Can I just stick a little filter directly onto the valve and not have to have the long hose? I can't think why it would not work. It's not like it needs boost pressure... it only opens when the engine is idling.

I had to remove the fuel tank to replace a fuel hose that had gone hard. The tank still had about 30L of BP98 from 2 years ago so it fairly heavy. I ended up pouring it out the filler pipe into a 20L drum for the mower... then that was full, I filled my 5L bottle a few times and transferred it to the corolla. It will be fine. I also took the opportunity to remove the battery tray, fuel pump and surge tank so I could clean it up and paint it. It was a horrible mess from my old battery that seemed to spew a bit of acid and ate the paint. I also made the access hole for the hoses about twice the size it was before, should be able to change stuff without removing the tank now. The paint is not quite dry yet, so I have not put the rubber bead around the edge of the hole. I've ordered some 2" alloy pipe to replace the IC inlet/outlet. They are currently 1 7/8" or something. I've been meaning to do that for ages, and the hose should clamp down much better once that's done.

Trying to work out if I have the CAS plug wired correctly. I'm fairly sure I have the power and ground right. And 75% sure I've got Trig 1 and 2 the right way around. It seems to work occasionally, like sometimes it displays the revs momentarily in the Link software, but most times it does not. I'm just turning the engine over on the starter. Could it be from voltage drop? It's dropping down to 9 volts when it's cranking. It's the same 360 degree Nissan Opto type as the old engine. Maybe I'll take it off and turn it with the drill, so there is no voltage drop from the starter. Also found that the fuel hose for the overflow from the surge tank to fuel tank has gone hard. It can't be much more than 3 years old :/ I blame supercheap efi hose Which was actually quite expensive. Of course it's the most awkward one to remove, all the other hoses have to be removed so the fuel tank can come out.

More recently. I had to pull the gearbox out because the plate thingy that goes behind the flywheel didn't have holes in the right places for the L-brackets that brace between the block and the lower bellhousing. So convenient that I got a power file for xmas to make some notches in the edge of the plate. I've also just put the radiator and intercooler back in.... The radiator top hose needs to make some bends like a snake practicing yoga... I might have to make it out of metal I think. I also had to cut some of the electric fan shroud off so it clears the front pulley. 3mm is heaps!

Build Thread: //oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/51322-adooms-1982-kp60-starvia/

*rebuilds engine* over REALLY long time. Thanks CAM. Making new engine mounts. Old ones were a bit not right.

Then on the first or 2nd run at Manfield. BHG Bores were fucked #1 and #3 spark plugs had melted electrodes. So I did this It's the 4 port head It needed a rebuild though

Had to move the BOV to before the IC so it didn't vent E85 into the engine bay.... It's the red bit down there.

And a dyno run. Low boost/High Boost. And I didn't mention I messed around with an aquamist water injection system. The dyno guys tried putting straight E85 instead of water in it. Extra 20KW on the same boost! But the flow from the injector nozzle was not consistent so they suggested replacing it with a fuel injector. I'm not the best at brazing.... Making the fuel tank for E85 And an oil catch tank Baby fuel rail for the single injector.

At some point I decided to make a better clutch pedal. A straight one... I also put a stop on it, because it was pushing the clutch springs too far and they would touch the clutch plate. The Starlet speedo cable screws right into the CA18ET gearbox. But it reads ~20% high. With the link, I could use a PWM speedo and a speed sensor in the box. I'm cheap/poor, so I tried to find a factory fitted pwm speedo I could use. No such luck. But a rev counter is pwm. So after very much fucking around I ended up with a rev counter with a speedo faceplate It turns out I don't HAVE to have an ODO?! I made a spider. It lives on the roof of my house now

And I got a fibreglass bonnet and bumpers. And I got a better radiator Then I took it to the dyno and said "can we turn up the boost?". And they were like "holy shit why hasn't it exploded before now? It goes really lean and starts detonating. You should LINK ECU it." So I got a link and made a fuel rail to take bigger injectors etc.... Too much torque happened, so better clutch

The replacement shell had rusty doors, bootlid, bonnet, guards and under the wiper motor. I swapped the bootlid, bonnet(minor straightening required), right guard and I just happened to have one spare guard for the other side. I fixed the rust in the drivers door frame, but the passenger side was worse so I bought the yellow door. The box doubles as a handy table.