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Posts posted by Adoom

  1. So the threaded collar that pulls the chuck mounting flange onto the spindle taper was stuck. The guy I bought it off said the previous owner also could not get it off and broke the big c-spanner trying to undo it. So this thing has been stuck for YEARS.

    I reckon some gorilla had been trying to "undo" it with a big fucking hammer..... the wrong way, so they were tightening it. 

    Enter....ME. Right! big fuck off levers must solve this!

    So I tigged a 12mm bolt onto the c-spanner to fix it.

    Then made this no-turning-for-you thing.

    And put a long big of bar on the spanner handle.


    And discovered that my 82kg is insufficient weight to hang off the lever.

    So I swapped to the other side so I was lifting the lever up..... and proceeded to start tilting the lathe over.... Hmmmm

    Then I tried putting the trolley jack under the lever so the lathe was just starting to tilt, and whacking the collar with a hammer....Nope.

    So then I tried wedging a big bit of timber between the bed and the drip tray to give me a place to put a scissor jack. And jacked up on the end of the spanner.

    There was creaking from the jack and cracking from the wood. I got a whole lot of pressure happening and I was just waiting for it to explode in my face. I gave the collar a smack with the hammer and BANG! it fucking turned. HAH!

    It still didn't want to push the mounting flange off the spindle taper. So I started hammering on the back of the bit of angle. SUCCESS! The taper came loose and I could push it off by winding the collar by hand.

    It was a bit grubby in there.

    Here it is after I gave it a scrubbing with WD40 and a scourer pad.


    So the 2.2hp motor I want to try put on it has a 24mm shaft. The dual belt pulley that needs to go on it is for a 28mm shaft. I will try make a sleeve to make it fit. I'll also have to find a taller key.

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  2. 58 minutes ago, Muncie said:

    Nah the one i used was same colour as yours had been retrofitted for modern cutting tools etc. probably went up for sale about 6 years ago.

    I learnt on my granddads myford from around 5 years old. Lathe is on my bucket list.

    What size tooling did you use? It didn't come with any. Looks like maybe 25mm, or 20mm with a bunch of shims...

  3. 1 minute ago, Muncie said:

    where did you find that ? had an exact same one at my old work which has since shut doors wonder if its the same machine.

    It was in carterton. Old guy had it for years. I think he said it was ex railways.. or some other gubmint place that has since shut down.

    There was another one on trademe recently. It looked exactly the same model. Same year even. It was in Hamilton. This one. https://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=2362340323&archive=1 

    Is that the one you are talking about?

  4. So since the engine mounts were welded to the chassis rails. And the modified sump is back on the engine. I suppose I can put the engine back in and figure out how much I can lift the steering rack back up.

    Shouldn't take long.... the engine was already on the crane.

    So I put the engine in the hole, I put one bolt through the left engine mount because that one got there first. Just lower it a bit more and slide the right side bolt through......


    The hole doesn't line up.

    It's off by 3-4mm...

    Is it just the urethane?

    I'll try align it with a big screw driver... Nope that's didn't work.

    Have the chassis rails spread?!

    Offers up front cross member. Nope those bolt holes still line up.

    Did I put the engine mounts on the wrong sides after painting? Surely not.

    Swaps mounts around.

    Puts one bolt through. Other side still still doesn't line up. And engine now tilted nose down.

    So I suspect, that when I removed the engine, then cut the temporary tack welds to prep for fully welding the mounts, I pushed the mount plates much more snug against the chassis rails so they were further apart.


    Simplest solution I can think of is to try shim the mounts off the engine block with washers to get the holes to line up again. Then I'll weld those washers to the mount so it cannot be installed without them.


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  5. 17 hours ago, Beaver said:

    Nice products would be worth a shot. They have an online catalogue and a lot of places here can source them

    Aeons ago, when I worked at Road and Track in lower hutt I got long wheel studs for my Starlet. "Nice" may have been the supplier, but afaik they came from a local stockist. Early 20's me though they were expensive at the time. Suspect it might have been ~$200 for 20. 
    So R&T might be able to help. 

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  6. I need some new bike footwear.

    I have some of these:

    Long link is long

    Stuff I don't like about them:

    They aren't designed for doing much/any walking. 

    They are quite flat with very little grip.

    For a while, I wore them around the office because I CBF carrying shoes everywhere, it didn't take long to wear through the soles.


    So I think I am looking for something more dual purpose. A motorcycle boot that I can walk around in and doesn't look too out of place at the end of a pair of jeans in the office. They also need to be waterproof because it rains outside and that's where I do most of my riding.

    I found these, but don't know yet if any of my local bike shops stock them.



    Does anyone have any recommendations?


  7. Sooo when I was chasing out all the threads I managed to put the wrong pitch M10 tap through one of the bellhousing mount holes.

    So had to invest in some thread repair kits.


    OUCH! My wallet.

    I got an M6 at the same time because there are some stripped threads on the gearbox. ...the gear lever retention plate thing is held down by four M6 bolts and all the holes are stripped. 

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  8. WTF is an axle cross supposed to be? Do they mean the trailing arms??? They are more of an "L".

    How is it for rust...

    Battery fallen through the battery box and dangling?

    Rear subframe mounting points loose/broken?

    Broken exhaust mounts? Probably this one I reckon.

    Not much else under there that could make a knocking like that.

  9. 4 hours ago, yoeddynz said:

    Cool saw. Would be so handy.  What's for me curious is how big is the top drum/wheel? From what I can tell it must have two wheels on top and the blade must be far more flexible then a normal wood bandsaw... 



    2019-08-27 17.43.09.jpg

    You got it. The top wheels are a little smaller that you have drawn. The bottom wheel is about right.

    I think the blade is 0.6mm


  10. I gave the welder assembly a clean with compressed air. It had loads of metal 'dust' all over it. Which I assume was conductive! I should probably try make some kind of plastic dust cover for it.

    I traced the wires... Round thing at the top is the grinder motor. 2,3,6 are joined together, which looks original.


    As far as I can tell, the welder and annealer should have been working, it was only the grinder motor that was no longer connected.

    AFAIK, if I add in the wires I've drawn in thin lines, the motor should work.

    So next thing to do is pull out the multimeter and check the switches all work and there is continuity in the transformer coils.


  11. So I bought a metal cutting vertical bandsaw. It's single phase.


    I picked it up on the weekend. It belonged to a fabrication shop called Metalmorphic. They bought it new ~35 years ago(the plate on the motor says 1982) and stopped using it about 5 years ago because laser cutting exists.

    All I've had time to do is take the blade guides to bits and clean them. Looking at the photos I realised I put part of the top support in backwards, so the locking screws face the wrong way.


    I knew the blade welder wasn't working when I bought it, he said it had been "fixed" some years ago, but it's not working.

    Here is the photo from trademe, it's much cleaner now. Looking on google, it seems like many saw brands use "identical' blade welders.


    I'll probably never use the blade welder and just buy ready made blades. But I thought I'd take it apart and see if I could find what was wrong with it. "How complicated could it possibly be?".





    Someone has been in here before me... That switch with all the cut wires is to turn on the little grinder. I assume the red cable originally came here rather than the terminal block? And then yellow wires from here to the terminal block? The grinder motor also has a loose red wire with a spade connector on it that has nowhere to connect to.

    I assume the two wires coming from the saw are phase and neutral, and it earths through the casing?

    Does anyone else have a blade welder like this and can take some photos for me?

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