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Adoom

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Posts posted by Adoom

  1. So work gave me some Repco gift vouchers.... #PROBABLYNOTGETTINGAPAYRISETHISYEAR

    Does anyone have any experience with the spray guns they sell? Are they okay, or should I not bother?

    I need something to spray epotec408 (>1.8mm nozzle I think). And an as yet undecided top coat, possibly 2k.

  2. Was that Howat Engineering in Lower Hutt you used? What did he charge you for cutting the splines? 

    ....I've got some CV shafts I need to get shortened and was planning to go see Brian about it eventually. 

  3. 18 minutes ago, flyingbrick said:

    Yup Its a bloody trap 

    I believe it's there so that as you unscrew the ring it pulls the collet out of the taper. 

    Lol. I'm like "jeez this is hard to get out." and tap it with the brass mallet.

    • Haha 2
  4. 8 minutes ago, flyingbrick said:

    Sorry if this is a stupid comment, but I'm surprised so many people don't know this...

    You don't mean the ridge that the collect clips into?

    I've looked at some pictures. Yeh, I should not have removed that ridge. In my defense it's not like they came with any instructions.

    • Haha 4
  5. 2 hours ago, sr2 said:

    Looking at buying this from Bangood. Price looks right, too good to be true?

     

     

    I got one like that a few years ago. Similar price. Also from banggood.

    Only issue I had was a ridge inside the retaining nut thing that prevented it from working. Since I had a lathe, it was real easy to remove that ridge so it worked. That may just has been an issue with the batch mine came out of.

    The are accurate enough for what I do.

  6. I found far too many NOPES for this setup to last longer than 5 seconds before exploding.

    IMG_0107.thumb.JPG.6ce0ce169195f1c2091c0ae5a0bf2213.JPG

     

    Maybe the faceplate......?

    IMG_0108.thumb.JPG.fd49eca4b533008afcce5d972f7f0114.JPG

    That seems..... less dodgy.

    IMG_0109.thumb.JPG.f76b02649f889252b153233d3ac86e28.JPG

    Never used a faceplate before.... Am I gonna die? Do I need some counterweight.... you know, so there's more shrapnel to fly off and hit me, or smash through the roof?

    How many rpm....? It's a small hole and aluminium, so quite fast.... but death and dismemberment do not appeal. 

    • Like 8
  7. 2 minutes ago, sr2 said:

    I've only got one piece of tooling, it's a fly cutter that looks like it's never been used.

     

     

    I have the same fly cutter. It must be the standard tool that comes with a RF30 clone.

    Mine is MT3. I assume your's might be too. I made a drawbar out of std 20mm threaded rod. Something high tensile would have been better, it's a bit bendy when I hit it with the hammer to break loose.

    I get my tooling from Ali or BangGood if some youtuber machinist says it's not shit. I cannot afford legit brand name tools. 

    I got a 19 piece ER32 collett set to hold my endmills. It's okay, not great... just okay. The holder was not usable out of the box, there was a 'lip' inside the retaining nut that prevented it from clamping the collett?! I chucked it in the lathe and removed the lip, now it works good. The accuracy is good enough for what I do. But the only other option is to spend big money on a brand name collett set.

    My mill came with boxes of endmills, but most of them are blunt/broken. I looked into getting them sharpened and it's just not economical.

    I'm sure I made some posts about my mill ages ago...

     

    • Like 1
  8. Sooo I'm looking at a cga3de engine at pick a part. It seems to have done ~150000km. I pulled off the cam cover and it looks nice and clean. 

    I suspect the cam cover gasket has been replaced because the screws have been butchered by someone using the wrong screwdriver and there is excessive silicone.

    The front of the head looks nice and clean but the front of the block and transmission are real oily and filthy.

    What might be the source of all the oil? Just a leaking cam cover gasket and they only cleaned the front of the head when they replaced it?

  9. 2 hours ago, kicker said:

    Hey, not sure how many bits you still need but I met a guy this weekend who is clearing out a large amount of Mini parts, he's done a number of restorations over the years so has collected a lot, he's based in Whanganui

    Imagine a mini. Now remove the front subframe with the engine and suspension. Also remove just the steering rack. Now remove the rear subframe and suspension. Also remove the exhaust. Take off the bonnet, but leave the hinges. Remove the wiper mechanism, but leave the bracket and wiper arms. Remove the front seats. Remove the boot lid. Remove the fuel tank but leave the strap and bolts. Remove the rear lights. Remove the front grill. Remove the doors, but leave the inside handles and door card.

    All the stuff that's left, I need all of that, except the actual shell of course.
    I may be interested, but I'd prefer to get a bulk lot with most of the bits I need. If I buy a bit here and a bit there, it will end up costing a shitload. 

     

    • Like 1
    • Haha 1
  10. Whittled the old front panel off.

    Realised later I should have also removed those flanges on the front of the inner wings.... the new front panel already has them. But that will make it easier to flatten out the damage in the front of the drivers inner wing.

    IMG_0086.thumb.JPG.d07c522c28c06f8f0540071b19c47f5c.JPG

    No photo, but I offered up the new panel. Bloody hell the edges are sharp. Cut my hand.

    • Like 8
  11. I'd use paint stripper. The stuff from super cheap that has dichloromethane in the ingredients is safe for aluminium. Stinks terribly, I think it has ammonia in it. Works great for removing carbon from pistons and valves and stuff without scratching too. Don't get it on your skin, even a tiny little bit will start to burn in a few seconds.

    • Like 4
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