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Posts posted by Adoom


    1 hour ago, Abarth said:

    What am I looking for with a auto darkening helmet? I was doing a bit of welding on the weekend and came away with scratchy feeling eyes. My current helmet is a entry level one, even though I jammed a new battery before I started I don’t think it’s as good as it should be, also it looks like it has grinder swarf melted into the lens so I’m 100% sure that isn’t helping.

    In the market for a new one, recommendations? My eyeballs thank you in advance :)

    There should be a plastic cover over the lens that you replace. The std rectangle ones are only a few $ at Mitre10.

    I bought one of these Optrels two years ago, it may be an old model now. It was pretty expensive for me, $800. But the clarity in dark and not dark mode is fantastic, a massive improvement over my previous one! It also has a big viewing angle, not like the typical letterbox view.


    I'd definitely recommend it if your budget can accommodate it.


    Note: My previous experience has been with a cheap non-auto darkening helmet. Then a ~$200 auto darkening helmet. Now with the expensive optrel.

  2. 10 hours ago, flyingbrick said:

    I know many pro welders that use a dab of stainless when shit gets bubbly.. never even seen a failure coz of it. 


    I must get some stainless rod and try this! I assume that unless you are welding safety critical parts for NDT, it won't matter using a bit of stainless?

    • Like 1
  3. 1 hour ago, Goat said:

    Hello welders,

    TIG filler rods.

    What type and diameter would I need for the following:

    • Mild steel exhausts, panel steel and motorbike frames. BOC seems to only offer 1.6 and 2.4mm diameter. 1.6 fine for what I need?
    • Stainless exhausts (is this usually 304?)



    Where is the best place to get this from online?


    I got my tig stuff from these guys, just because it's all online. https://www.prolineindustrial.co.nz/cat/welding-equipment/tig-welding/tig-filler-wires

    I am still a novice, but I used 1.6mm for my mild steel exhaust. It went okay, you have to be really crazy with cleaning the weld area, any trace of oil or dirt and the weld fills with bubbles then you have to grind out and start again.

    • Like 1
  4. Lubricating the hose under the clamp with silicone spray so they don't pinch when tightening appears to have fixed the leaks.

    Now I'm trying to identify the cause of an oil leak at the adapter plate for the remote mount oil filter. I'm hoping it's just the figure 8 o-ring that needs replacing, not a pin hole in the weld.

    • Like 2
  5. 45 minutes ago, mjrstar said:

    In my experience your leaks would disappear if you threw away those cool looking clamps and just used budget worm clamps. 

    The t-bolt clamps can work OK-ish when you gave a barb or bead to shoulder to snug up against but seem to be near useless when clamping over a bit of parallel tube. 

    Damn, I got the cool looking clamps because there were going to be so many of them and right in your face.

    I did put a bead on the aluminium tube, using the modified vice grip method. Maybe it will help if I move the clamp right on top of the bead, rather than beside it?

  6. Pieced together the radiator pipes. SO. MANY. CLAMPS! It was actually slightly cheaper this way than buying some random rubber pipes with the right bends and cutting them up.

    It was still far more than I was expecting.

    I have cranked the clamps up as tight as I can but I still have leaks when the engine warms up. A bunch of leaks. :(

    It seems to be sealing okay at the engine and radiator connections. I'm thinking that since the joints where it is leaking are almost never going to need taking apart, I'll squirt some silicone sealer between the pipe and hose, then put the clamps on again.



    • Like 9
  7. 10 hours ago, JustHarry said:

    Is it possible to make the alternator moveable like most things?

    In theory, yes. But I don't think it's advised because the mounts are single shear when most pivoting alternators are double shear.  In my scenario, I don't have the clearance to move it anywhere.

    Some people make a bracket to mount an adjustable idler pulley. But this "stretch fit" belt is by far the easiest option. I just don't want to find that it is possible to be too tight and damage the alternator bearing.

    I tried looking up multi-v belt tension specs, but they required specialist measuring tools. 

  8. Can a 5 rib poly-v belt be too tight and damage the alternator bearings or something? Or are the bearings stronger than the belt?

    I am running an alternator only setup on my 1UZFE, so there is no tensioner. An internet person recommended a gates stretch-fit belt of a particular size that fits.

    I looked up the special tool used to install the stretch-fit belts then made do with random stuff that was the appropriate shape.

    I got the belt on, but it's pretty dang tight. Should I be concerned for my alternator?

  9. 2 hours ago, WhangareiKE70 said:

    I genuinely don’t know if you are trying to be rude or if that’s just how it is coming across.  
    Clearly, I made a mistake buying an Apple product for this, but that’s for the same reason I posted this topic asking for advice, I do not understand this stuff. 
    I was of the incorrect impression that because the app was available for both platforms then it would work. Semi-expensive mistake, but such is life. 

    From reading that list it doesn’t seem like any desirable ECUs are compatible with the Apple products.

    In saying that, even the Android/Windows list says that the current Link G4X range is incompatible, and Hatltech isn’t listed either, so maybe the Realdash app isn’t suitable for me anyway.

    I'm am not trying to be rude. I'm from IT, I tend to over explain sometimes.

    • Like 1
  10. 8 minutes ago, WhangareiKE70 said:

    Well that’s dumb. But I mean worst comes to worst I just bought myself a tablet. Then I have to get another something for dash use. 
    On that thread, did they mention if any particular type of ECU was compatible with Apple products?

    Hyperblade posted the Link forum link along with GIANT screenshots. near the bottom of the first page, Adam, the Link guy, says "iOS doesn’t support usb serial port or Bluetooth serial port so it will only work with a few ECU’s that have an Apple approved WiFi bridge.".

    So it sounds like if you want to use an iOS tablet, you need an ECU with Wifi... but it also has to be Apple approved Wifi.


    If you just go to the Realdash support page, they list the iOS approved ECU's.


  11. On 21/09/2021 at 20:42, NickJ said:

    Thats interesting, some brands of Pushlock hose state not to use clamps/crimps as the barb geometry can damage the hose.

    Pretty sure I read somewhere that Aeroflow recommend clamps on their pushlock fittings if it's over X degrees hotness.



    EDIT: LOL just noticed I have basically just said the same as Cletus

  12. 3 hours ago, WhangareiKE70 said:

    So I bought an Ipad Mini 3 (will fit in the standard gauge space). Second hand but in really good nic as I bought it off a friend who has an Ipad hire company, it was his personal one for work so not ex-hire and he has upgraded. Added advantages of working with other Apple bits too, and being slightly older still has an aux port for the music controller idea. 

    Bought a bunch of these:


    1x Hi-beam, 1x Low beam, 2x indicator, 1x handbrake symbol, 1x 4wd symbol, 1x low fuel. That's all the important stuff I could think of? Anything obvious I have forgotten that isn't covered by RealDash? 

    Um. The post I was reading on the Link forum said the iOS version of RealDash doesn't support the Link ECU. AFAIK it's because Apple devices will only 'talk' to serial devices(the ECU) that are Apple certified.

    • Sad 1
  13. 2 hours ago, Nominal said:

    Nice work on getting it running. You must be pleased.

    injectors could be sticky, worry about it later.

    Thanks, it feels like I passed a milestone.

    I should probably move on to wrapping the loom with the expanding mesh sleeve stuff I bought yonks ago. 


  14. Has anyone installed a in-tank efi pump into a fuel tank that did not have one before?

    I'm considering using an in-tank pump on the triumph, for the 1uzfe. My reasons are so I don't need to find an external mounting location and avoid having a surge tank and lift pump, also I would assume it's much quieter(because not-racecar).

    Is it straightforward? How do you deal with fuel surge? The tank has no internal baffles. What about the height of the tank?

    The oem stuff I have seen photos of look like just a big plastic thing with everything contained within it, I suspect I cannot modify that for height, or make use of the included float level.

    Should I just use an external pump and mount it under the car, using the OEM outlet on the bottom of the tank?


    I've finished the ecu wiring and want to test start the engine... but the old external fuel pump I had was fuckzorred(I think the E85 ate it) so I need to think about a new pump now...


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