Adoom

I lifted the rear subframe off. Feels like one of those photos showing off the big fish I caught...

With the car like this it made it really easy to measure between the front and rear lower ball joints to find the wheelbase on the drivers side was longer than the passenger side. I suspect it's because I built the alignment jig for the two front mounts on the yellow car, not this one.
I had oversized the holes that the studs come through to allow some wiggle room, but I need to take a further 4mm off both sides. Once I can get it on a wheel alignment machine to make sure it's straight the studs will get welded in solid.

I've started cleaning off the last of the underseal.
I've got to also remove the remains of the original spring seat reinforcement.

I got a big boy drill bit. 1" 31/32nd. Just under 50mm. Including the MT4 taper, it's 440mm long! I had to get an adapter to put it in the MT3 tailstock. 

11 minutes ago, SiRge said:

Anyone gone through design approval process with lvvta/TAC? Ol' m8 Julian thinks my cars too modded and wants to put me up against the design approval, but aside from lvvta website not sending the CCD, the Internet seems pretty quiet on it. 

Yes. I needed to do it for the non-standard method I used to weld mounting flanges to my BC coil overs.

I filled out the standard part of the forms then added extra pages at the end with photos of what I had done so far and scale drawings showing measurements and detail of stuff that's not super obvious in the photos. I had my application delivered to LVVTA office. They sent me an invoice for the $150. Then I had to wait until the next monthly TAC meeting. My application was posted back to me within a week of the meeting and it had been approved.

If it wasn't approved, I'd expect notes saying what I needed to change or additional detail they wanted. Then I'd have a month to sort it and send in before the next monthly TAC meeting otherwise you have to wait another month. 

51 minutes ago, cletus said:

Yes. 

Fuel and brake lines. 

I usually recommend running them away from the driveshaft where possible, as a rear loop on a solid axle car is (a) hard (b) looks stupid (c) not particularly effective

Not quite as bad on something with IRS 

Cool, I'll run them down the side. The driveshaft hoop will be something like the red scribble. The sides of the tunnel and front seat area has two 'floors' with a cavity for some reason so I was planning on bringing the hoop mounts forward to the chassis box section.

Do I recall something about proximity of things like fuel line, battery cable and brake line to the propshaft when routing under the car?
Or does it not matter where I run them as long as it's secure, not going to hit the ground and can't touch things that move or spin?

2 hours ago, Snoozin said:

I've had nothing but good results with VHT caliper paint, Integra's rear calipers are currently painted in it, as are the KP rears. They are steel or cast iron or whatever they make them out of though. Might need to etch prime alloy first then use caliper paint.

The stuff I have on my shelf is Duplicolor. I'll try some VHT. Thanks.

Discovered that the caliper paint I've used is rubbish. Blasted half off half of it with compressed air. They are aluminium so won't rust. Does anyone recommend something that actually sticks and comes in a spray can?

1 hour ago, Muncie said:

 ive chopped my bumper support and that was silly.

 

 

Is the bar trying to occupy the same space as the intercooler? Tetris harder....

Or was it just blocking airflow? I'd just let it block that top section of the intercooler, it will probably still do some cooling in that section.

3 hours ago, VitesseEFI said:

Sorry, don’t know. Many/most LHD cars had it but RHD is pretty much an Oz / NZ only thing, I assume due to local regs. Never seen a dual circuit one in the UK, though they may exist.  Bit of poking around my usual sources has draw a blank. 

What I do know is that you will struggle to bleed the clutch, just because it’s a Lockheed M/C. Devils work they are.  I’d run that line below the reservoir if at all possible as I think there’s a risk it’ll unbleed itself like that.

I'm running them high because the there is very little space between the engine and firewall. I came across a Staaaaaaaag brake diagram on Rimmer Bros which looks identical to the 2500 tandem system. The same master cylinder is listed for both cars. Front port goes to the rear brakes. I'm going to have separate short sections of pipe going to the master cylinder, so if It's wrong, I only need to remake those short bits.

Could anyone else with a Triumph that has a tandem brake master cylinder check which ports are for the front/rear please.

AFAIK, both lines go to a 5 port pressure imbalance switch thing on the passenger side. Then one comes back for the FR brake, one goes to the FL and another goes to the rear.

I've looked in the two workshop manuals and factory blue manual I have but they only show the routing for the earlier single circuit system.  

The arches on that anglebox just look so wrong. Not sure what it is.... maybe the sharp bends clashing with the curvy body? Bubble arches from an escort might look better.

5 hours ago, Stu said:

For your brake line clamps etc I think I have a box of these floating around if they are of any use - I made a heap of them on the CNC.

 

Thanks! Yours look way more refined than my blocks. But they look like they will be too big for me to use. I can make more blocky ones if needed on my manual mill. I might even think about rounding the corners or using the DRO for the spacing instead of "looks about right"... 

Could not find anything for three lines that was available...

Left front caliper, clutch, line to rear.

So... yeh? Or nah?

They are a loose fit. 5mm drill for 3/16th pipe(4.6mm?)

I too can hook you up with a round thing with a hole in it.

Can you draw a diagram showing how the K11 surge tank pump box thing works?
I need to make a custom tank for my Triumph, to fit between the strut towers it has now. I'll need to figure out some kind of arrangement to prevent surge. I was thinking of putting in curved partitions so the fuel gets trapped in the 'dam' rather than going all the way to the end of the tank. I don't really have the space to make a well in the bottom. 

I've got a 3-piece wheel that's got a tiny leak where the halves join. If I use the soapy water on it, it slowly makes foam.

The bolts are real tight, I suspect they have never been removed. So I guess the bead of sealant around the join has a hole somewhere. 
The plan is to clean it real good and see if I can find the hole using compressed air from the outside... But I guess I'm just going to scrape most of the sealant out and run a new bead. 
But what sealant do I use? Is it the same stuff as roof/gutter sealant, or the stuff for the shower????