dave123456789
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Posts posted by dave123456789
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I had a set of RE002's on my XR6T ute which were not too bad before I went to 19's (now run Pirelli P zero on the rear) - If you can get the Re002's on a 4 for the price of 3 deal from firestone they will be hard to beat I believe. Bugger paying retail price though
I run Toyo t1R on my evo which are also decent but are pretty noisy, and possibly succeptable to scrubbing the outer shoulder off (might be how I drive it?)
What model evo do you have? These tyres will be for an evo 5.
Would rate them better than the re002? I don't care about road noise
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Hey guys I need a set of 4 new tires for a new car, tyres on it a some Chinese crap and want some performance tyres so I can thrash it to death without flying off the road.
Needs to be 225/45/17.
Whats everyones experience? I have used bridgestone adrenalins re002 before and they were great but thought I should maybe ask before dropping a grand on tyres. Im open to other options.
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dont worry man, i know where you can get em done cheap, i had some 13x7s put together. $200 happy deals!
excluding buying bands
and it only took 3 months.
and another $200 to get them re-done straight.
and all the tyre fitments and balances in between
and now 3 hold air
but that's all good now, because i drive round on stock 12"s.
haha sounds like a mean deal.
will pass on that. if they fuck my wheels I then have the really hard problem of finding some spares. looks like you got to pay the cost to be the boss
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Yea I understand the thread is old and obviously prices change/widen steels are more popular so they charge more etc etc.
But does anyone know anywhere cheaper?
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Hey guys, am looking around to widen my steels and called steel surgeon as they did my bros diff but they quoted 115 per wheel up to 2 1/2 inch max or 125 for a band bigger than 2 1/2.
Is there anywhere cheaper? seems pretty steep paying $460. considering according to this thread it used to be $200
I also cant find factory wider steels as my stud pattern is a stink 4x140
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Yeah , turns over all good, just firing on 3 cylinders,
When I put it near the sparkplug I can hear the noise of the spark going, unfortunately , it's covered by all that rubber stuff I can't look at the spark :\
I think ben was meaning remove the sparkplug also but if you cant be arsed just chuck a key or some metal in the end of the ignition lead and see if that makes a spark when resting against the block.
Only issue I have ever had putting a battery in backwards is that the external voltage reg goes up in smoke as soon as you connect it but if its still charging your all good.
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So what exactly do we need to buy and how does it all work?
I want to GPS my cars now. I have insurance but still not getting a car back sucks immense amounts of arse.
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Taken from the hobby manual, so I guess wood is ok as long as it isn't shit wood and solid as? Doesn't state what materials
a) be securely retained in a structure specifically designed for the weight and load of the batteries being used, and
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I know when putting a battery in the boot it has to be in a box. can this box be an old beer crate or made of wood?
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It's about to be welded up. Is this ok?
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I cant really judge from your photo but usually I can weld in some tight spots with the tig. Sheilding is you biggest problem in tight spots sometimes you need to make a dam so you can fill it with argon then poke the electrode right out to get in there
I cut it with a couple of slits and bent it, then cut the slits again and bent it more. came up all good. Will have to wrap these bad boys so it looks less shit but will throw a picture up when its all welded up and ready to go on the car.
So yea, the cut slits and bend idea worked perfectly-ish.
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As I have now bent a couple of runners they have squashed a tiny bit so not nice and smooth on the inside. Im sure this wont make a huge difference either? To bend them I cut some slits and just smashed it over to where I wanted it, then welded it back up so who knows what the inside looks like
Either way its going on the car like this
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cut slits with 1mm cutoff disc most of the way through the pipes, bend then weld up slits? multiple slits if neccesary to acheive angle. poormans kunce lobsterback bend.
Yea that's one of the options. There is a issue though with how do I weld the bit of pipe between the pipes? I could make only small slits though so I can still weld all around it I guess.
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damn picture hosting sites are blocked here at work and I cant see the pictures in my build thread but if you check out my build thread you will see two runners side by side that I have cut, I just need them bent towards the block.
near bottom of this thread if I remember correctly. like I said I cant see the pictures at work
//oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/28369-dave123456789s-1966-prince-b200/
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Not too sure what your doing but if your trying to move a runner away then youd be better off chopping it out and making a new pipe that goes where you need it to. When you bend some thing thats in place itll either need more or less material to make it from a-b so itll need to be streached then bent or shrunk then bent depending what way you go with it. Moving something 50mm depending on its radius can cause an extra 20mm or so more or less length required etc.
I was going to cut it and weld a bit of pipe on lower but as there is 3 runners all close together I don't know how I would weld it back up. Sorry if these questions or comments seem retard but im kind of new to this. Im just winging it and smashing it together so it work.
It doesn't matter if the runner is shorter it will need a bit welded on the end anyway which isn't an issue. It doesn't need a nice radius it just needs to not point straight up, it has to be at a bit more of an angle. I don't have any tools to try bend it myself and figured heating it and bending it would work.
Ill mspaint some diagrams or find a pic for you.
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need some help around the pakuranga area to bend 2 short bits of pipe on my extractors. I can provide photos. just need to be heated and pulled about 2 inches towards the block to clear my carbs. the pipe is already welded to the collector as they are a set of cobys im modifying. I could probably make an S shape pipe to connect it up but would rather try it this way first.
Any idea where to start or anyone got gas and a means to bend this shit for a box of piss or some monies?
also preferably done asap as the welder im using wont be at my house after this weekend. I am also keen to drive anywhere in Auckland to sort this out
cheers
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Thanks didn't think it was a big issue. Just wanted to make sure before the new bits are welded in. As long as it doesn't make it run like arse its ok.
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Will it make a big difference if a couple of header pipes are significantly longer than some of the others? Not a huuuuge difference but a decent bit longer
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Get a mirage like the others said. Nothing cooler than the two gearsticks.
Next thread you will make will be 'First Oldschool Truck'
Why would you ever take it out of rabbit mode? Im sure it has a rabbit and a turtle or is it a turtle and a star? I cant remember was almost 15 years ago I last sat in one and they were pretty poos then.
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Lol at Mirages, Anything will be better than a mirage. Atleast get a starlet or something if your after that vintage otherwise I agree with the others, Old and british will have you learning how to fix most things after the first drive and they are awesome and usually cheap as shit because don't have the RWD Toyota tax
forgot to mention another great thing about british cars is all the fluids leak. Used to make me rush out and check the oil of my old Hillman when I would back out of a carpark and not see any fresh oil there. depending on how weird you are its a great way to keep an eye on the fluids
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It's never going to be a monster but it's supposed to be a cruiser anyway, right? Most only ended up with 202's and the like due to the original engine dying for whatever reason and it being cheaper to get a crappy old 202 to put in.
The G7 was what got used in the S54 GT-B's mate. 127hp with triple webers or just over a hunge with the old single in the S54 GT-A's.
They obviously won't pull the Gloria along as quickly as they would a Skyline but it'd do alright.
..and it's not Vauxhall, so that's ALWAYS a better option.
Yea suppose to be a cruiser but I would like to be able to thrash the tits off it too and actually go places.
Im fairly convinced buying it is a good idea, even just to hold onto it for a bit.
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Mate.
Put the G7 in, get those triples on it. Beauuuuutiful.
Would it perform alright though? I though the Vauxhall was a swap because the original engines were rather shit but I have never driven a G7.
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So I have some good news, I have found all my missing chrome trim so I am excited to have her looking back in top shape. Plus theres heaps of other spares im probably going to purchase as he has a fair few wrecked B200s.
I have also found an original engine so the issue is, do I keep trying to work the Vauxhall engine or buy this mighty 2L 6cylinder monster?
Feel free to talk me into it or out of it.
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Looking good bro.
Lucky there no where as much rust as the other car and your welds look heaps better too
tyre recommendations
in Tech Talk
Posted
I am currently dailying it but hopefully wont be for long. its only a 5k drive to work anyway on 50k streets.
I will look into the Achilles 123 tyres. Why wouldn't you run them on a daily? Wear out too quickly?
Edit: Oh I see they are a semi slick.
evo has upgraded suspension, bigger turbo but nothing super special. just want to be able to thrash it on the country roads where I used to live and feel confident.