2JZKP

there are 2 tiny holes by the lr boot seal above the taillight n thats the only bits i could find, its a sedan, auto 5m engine

haha good stuff, i deserved that one kinda left it way too open

dont really know how else to explain it lol, what would you consider a good price to buy one for in those specs?

hey guys am wanting to know roughly what youd pay for a mint, next to no rust 215000km ms112 crown super saloon? with new wof and reg? drives mint etc etc

just after a rough idea

maybe run custom intake pipe on engines with one big throttlebody, share the tps wiring between computers?

if i was doing this id slam the 2x(insert engine here) in there with the auto boxs, wire the boxs up to same computer as said earlier, run 2x vn commy diffs(easy to get and 3.08 ratio) weld the centres and just run a single axle each side no centre axle

id flag the centre axle purely because less hassle, time etc etc etc and if youve ever driven with a locker and snapped an axle itd allways do a better skid than a normal single spinner diff on that wheel ie no load share, and the centre axle would be prone to snapping if the centres were locked as if trans shifted at different times one diff would try spin faster than other putting mega stress on centre axle

i think if the trans shifted at slightly different times all thatd happen is the rear end would try "steer" the van with one wheel going slightly faster than the other, similar to fiddle brakes

All good man shouldnt be 2 much of a problem, i managed to sort the southwards one reasonably quick

i did all the compliance work on the green trabant, the one that is now in southwards, a few years ago, that was running a 12v system, i work at vehicle testing station/wellington vehicle compliance, had to do full rebuild on brakes, get it running, had rust in the floorpan and around the firewall area, needed seatbelts throughout and we had to make a custom plate that was welded in to the rear parcel tray area to accomodate rear seatbelts, had to change the headlight to dip to left and a few other bits

have to admit was awesome to go for a cruise round the hutt once we got it all running properly, got sum looks n made me want one haha

agree with seedy al, did some polytech time and it was shit, got in the workplace n did my apprenticeship there instead soo much better/more fun/ you get paid...

trust me im also a professional

different end of the car but i had to replace some rear bushes for the rear diff arms in my 81 ex a couple of years ago and managed to get them brand new from mitsi for reasonably cheap, 30 sumthing trade from memory, so that may be a go, unless you specifically want nolathane?

95% sure they are all front sump mate

to get custom ones made that sounds a fair price of around 1500, your average off the shalf forged pistons would set you back 800 if not more nzd easy so if he got those venolia ones for 800 custom id go for them even know it was 2 month turn around.. but just my 2c

thanks bud gave them a ring they have 1 available so will hava think bout pricing etc

hey guys im after a workshop / lockup in the lower hutt area, preferably want it by myself as i have alot of stuff and need space for the project build/perkjobs

anyone know any?

something atleast 6x6metres or bigger with power/maybe water

let me know

andrew

0221049094

to put the 1600 in the 1200 you will have to bolt the engine x member in as the mounts are different, but since you allready have it its a easy job, unsure of the dash wiring side of things but id say from when i had my 1600 gsl ex it had all the gauges in it, so id say youd have to swap looms as the 1200 wont have the extra gauges the 1600 has

on the pluys side if you end up doing it and swap the 1600 into it you can then from there go up to the 2 litre 4g63 which will bolt onto the 1600 xmember

id go to howat even if i was in palmy hes a damn good engineer

i have 4 genuine jaf badges that stick to ya rear screen, they are flexible and from new the rear is sticky but all have lost their stick but go on a window with superglue mint, if anyone wants em let me know, i get more every now and then

i am not sure personally but if you have both driveshafts there id try just bolting the one piece in see if it works? or lay them next to each other and measure overall length

happens all the time when theyre quiet they go looking for work and fail stupid stuff, ive seen heaps of these same bushes in estimas/ipsums and they allways look like that just surface cracks

played it heaps, am now bored with it so i just turn it on and go drifting in the 2008 m5 bmw lol is a really decent drifter and not the normal skyline/silvia/rx7

cheap easy to get parts for upgrade would be commodore 3.8 v6

if it was me id run it, but as requiemk said if using a 20det loom it wont plug into your 25det computer, id try source a 25det vvt loom man will be the easiest option

seal imports are awesome, i go there to get heaps of different seals for automotive stuff only ever had to get one thing custom made so not a bad range of bits

if all above fails (very unlikely) head down to your local fastening supplies shop with thread pitch and length measurements and ask them for a grade 8 or higher hi tensile bolt to suit, in some cases you may need to run a washer so take that into account when measuring lengths, but go this road if all above fails, im sure arp will do something for you

bieng a gt it will have disc rears and the caliper is also the handbrake yes?

id make sure all the caliper slides are working properly and give them a good clean out/grease, maybe work the piston back and forth a couple of times in the caliper to make sure its not sticking.

if not there should be a proportioning valve for the rears which is usually located on the firewall follow the rear steel brake line from the master cylinder to the firewall and there should be a valve lookinig thing located there, unsure of how many pipes are coming out of this but i assume 2 one for left and one for right. try removing this and cleaning it out thoroughly as sometimes they get a bit of dirt/silt stuck in there partially blocking it so the brakes will get some but not all the pressure, if that doesnt work id try replacing it with a good one. give it a real good bleed, staring at lr then rr then lf then rf should hopefully be all good after that

double check none of your steel lines have taken a hit by debris or been crimped also as that would cause it

andrew

farked if im carrying it back across the road haha, thats what i have a van for haha

parkers is Custom Autoworks, behind cambridge automotive on cambridge tce in naenae right behind bunnings warehouse down the little drive/alleyway, john will have it