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Taistorm

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Posts posted by Taistorm

  1. Was able to have a look at this thing since lockdown has been reduced and ruling changed. Was able to have a good look over the work and got some better pics. Pretty stoked to be honest, everything looks so much better now that it's straight, Chopper has done an awesome job. Only thing is the right side engine cross member mount bolt is about 3mm away from the radiator, it may have potentially had a slight nudge on the front at some stage but maybe not. This isn't a problem however.

     

    FB_IMG_1588057381608.jpg.a051babf8f0707266741651887ed4401.jpgFB_IMG_1588057384331.jpg.4e27ca9d7020622aff7a441e8d930f49.jpgFB_IMG_1588057387571.jpg.95fb160fc45cbdaadeb1eac5c1cc5129.jpg

     

    Heaps of clearance at the slave cylinder a bonnet now as well which is bonus.

     

    This is going up on the hoist next week so we will get started on the rear end. Re check the diff seals, work out shock mounts and sort some new shocks, look and see if the blocks I have are suitable and give it a general tidy up. Maybe look over the brakes as well.

     

    Cheers

    • Like 9
  2. 11 hours ago, kws said:

    Painless is well known around the world for good quality gear.

    E: Assembled in America apparently, and available on Amazon. https://www.amazon.com/EZ-Wiring-Standard-Color-Harness/dp/B00NO0Y1AS - https://www.ezwiring.com/

    Double E: Yeah dont do the Tardme one if you enjoy having your car in one unmelted piece. https://www.aliexpress.com/i/32890198874.html

    After reading up through various American hot rod forum threads it looks like EZ wire and Kwik Wire were the same company back in the day (maybe the owners went different ways or something) but they've been around since the early 90s. Designed and built in America.

    • Like 1
  3. 14 hours ago, vk327 said:

    beware of chinese junk knock offs, they  look similar but they cheap out on the terminals and end up with fuse holders & terminals melting from poor connection, stick  to  something known like the painless or the kruzin ones 

    Yeah nah would definitely use a company that has been around and pay a few more sheckles for better quality.

  4. 15 hours ago, ThePog said:

    Yea man I wired up the truck with one of these;

    http://www.kruzinkustoms.com/view/hot-rod-shop-parts-for-sale/electrics/20-circuit-wiring-harness-kits.php

    Was something like $350. The quality was pretty good, so nice to have all the wires printed with what they are for. In reality I only needed the 12 way as I ended up with a few spare circuits. The extras were for power seats and ac etc. I used some of these for other shit but 

    It was surprisingly enjoyable to wire things up, I discovered the joys of Deutsch connectors too. I am dumb as fuck with auto wiring, but I discovered that if you just take one circuit at a time it is absolutely fine.

    In reality I need to take the whole lot out and tidy it up or redo due to the extra shit I ended up grafting in, but it was a lot of time so this might be much later.

    Thanks for the info. It all sounds pretty good, I hadn't seen that company so I'll have a look into them. The main concern was if I did order one of the these 'generic' kits, I would find out they were poor quality cable, connectors, cheap constructed fuse box etc. I would be able to work out and route the wires easy enough though. I like the idea of printed labels on the cables and everything being colour coded just to make it easy for both setup and also potential troubleshooting in the future. 

     

    What were the manuals and wiring diagrams etc like that were provided through kruzin kustoms?

  5. Hey everyone,

     

    Looking to make a wiring harness for my Mazda, was initially going to pay someone to remake it but after getting a few generic estimates I've decided to do it myself. I've come across various companies (mostly from the states) that produce universal wiring kits, such as Painless, American Autowire and Kwik Wire. Most of the kits provide a generic fuse/relay/flasher box with colour coded and labelled wiring plus most connectors with a thorough manual with diagrams and step by step guides on the install. Most reviews I've seen online have been pretty good and it looks like an easy way to go about it. Especially if I could potentially get an 8-14 fuse circuit for around $500 landed in NZ and a few weekends worth of labour, it looks like possibly an easy and cheap alternative that takes the stress out of buying all the individual items locally, making my own diagrams etc.

    https://kwikwire.com/14-circuit-wire-harness/

    https://www.painlessperformance.com/wc/10308

     

    https://www.americanautowire.com/shop/power-plus-13-wiring-kit

     

    What I'm wanting to know is if anyone has had any experience with such kits, whether the quality is as good as it seems and so forth. I have pretty basic auto electrical knowledge myself, have carried out many small rewire jobs through work as well as heaps of troubleshooting and repair work but have never attempted making a full body loom. I'm really looking to setup a basic loom with maybe a few additional auxillaries for the likes of a radio and maybe central locking and an alarm etc. Please let me know what you reckon. Alternatively I'll be looking at sourcing the individual components locally and setting everything up from scratch.

     

    Cheers in advance,

    Tai

    • Like 4
  6. Next one was my 1984 Toyota Soarer GZ10. This thing was mostly mint bar faded seats and rust on the rear bumper support mount. I had this in Perth, also purchased from a deceased estate. Was auto with the more desirable 1ggeu, as opposed to the m series engines that all had head failure. Plan was to 2j swap, had it all lined up then I panic sold it to buy a kp62 (I always wanted a kp starlet and they are super rare in Aus). Dumb cunt as I'll never be able to find another one. Such a cool old cruiser with super lush interior and digital dash. Was also super easy to get it sideways. 

     

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    • Like 9
  7. Old engine position. It's hard to see but it was pointing towards the front left and leaning back. This is something that has always bugged me, it also created clearance issues with the air filter and alternator with the bonnet.

    FB_IMG_1585169179625.jpg.8ff54d8c6f0fecb4f80cf5bdac45fcfa.jpg

    Engine repositioned. Sitting a lot more square now with heaps of clearance. 

    imagejpeg_3_7.jpg.25a008e010edabefcbdd6afc9cfd4398.jpg

     

    Pretty stoked! Will need to see what the go is for the sump as the old one looked pretty fucked and had hori notching/probably warped so we might be replacing it or have an alloy one made up. On hold for at least the next 4 weeks due to obvious reasons. Keep well people.

     

    Chur,

    Tai

    • Like 9
  8. Got some updates from Chopper, they've been putting in work leading up to lock down. Pretty happy with where we're right now.

    Modified swaybar/crossmember, custom engine crewmember mounts.

    imagejpeg_2_7.jpg.8e6265a86d593e3c16651d58bd1ca99f.jpg

     

    Painted and fitted with updated PAC engine Cross member and mounts.

    imagejpeg_2_8.jpg.66d965660b66b1cf20d8ebcb5dd16b79.jpgimagejpeg_2_9.jpg.b3a6f2368ba8cae2e6b3846122bb4925.jpg

     

    Clearance at the clutch slave opened up.

    imagejpeg_3_6.jpg.a53e89db7d656c4367fa152eb66eede0.jpg 

    • Like 3
  9. 2 hours ago, dabuzz said:

    good progress, gonna look pretty wild once its done. what colours it going? some 70's racer graffics would look amazing imo

    Shes at the right place now - chopper will sort it out.

    but man, you must have snaked me, I'm waiting to get into his shop too haha

    Haha yeah see how we go. At this stage I want to go with the original red, but I'm keen to do period decals of some sort like you say. Or maybe the advan scheme.

    Haha I've been waiting about 3 months to get it in his doors. Was initially supposed to be a month ago but they've been flat out!

    • Like 1
  10. Not much has happened since last post. Have just been checking over bits and pieces and discovering more that needs doing or corners that have been cut, making things more difficult but that's ok. Currently working out a plan on how to move things forward with the build, with the budget that I have as I need it ready for my wedding at the end of the year as I got engaged a few months ago, I want to be able to drive the groomsmen in and drop some skids haha. 

     

    Anyway I've recently sold the Recaro that I brought last year, and also selling the other ones if anyone is interested (will do a good deal for OS). In reality the seats are still to wide, there will be clearance issues with the tunnel and also the seat belt mount so really I can only get away with 500-510 width max but I think I may have found something that suits.

     

    Also I've been on standby for a space to free up at Choppers Auto body shop for the last 3 months and finally he's given me the thumbs up to bring it in next week. The exhaust will be getting done, and a few other fabrication jobs depending on what I can afford so that's pretty exciting. He will also be getting compliance on board to go over the vehicle and point us in the right direction of getting it road worthy.

     

    Here's a shameless instagram pic, I spent a few minutes putting the bonnet back on so at least it's got some cover on the transporter.

     

    IMG_20200308_121832_632.thumb.jpg.12e6d648b634d497f4608aac0948cc2d.jpg

     

    Tai.

    • Like 8
  11. Hey guys, 

    Might need to move this to a different category if it's wrong but anyway I'm chasing some wedding cars for 2 separate wedding later this year.

    Wedding 1:

    The first wedding is for my good mate. The date is for the Saturday the 26th of September. Looking for at least 2 cars, possibly 4 but it comes down to availability and costs to work with their budget. He is ideally after Australian Muscle, early Holdens in particular (e.g. kingswoods, premiers etc) but beggars can't be choosers so also the likes of old falcons, valiants or even American muscle. The venue is located in Clevedon, south east Auckland. would be approx 3 hours work, picking the groomsmen and bridesmaids up from different locations (close to venue) and driving to the venue. Possibly even waiting around for the ceremony to take pictures afterwards. 

    Wedding 2:

    This is for my own wedding. The date is the 12th of December. Located in Mangawhai, about 3 hours as well. I'm only after 1 car, a tidy rotary, needs to be 4 doors  to fit 4 girls and tidy but also ruckus, This will be paired with my 1300 so have to make sure it's completed this year haha. You will be picking up the bridesmaids from close by and taking them to the venue and maybe hang around for some photos after the ceremony if you like. 

    Obviously you will be paid for your time and services. We will cover fuel and reasonable cash, beers, spirits as required.

    I know this is well in advance but a lot of planning is being done for both weddings haha. Please let me know if you or someone you know might be keen.

     

    Thanks in advance!

     

    Tai

    • Like 3
  12. Just need to work out what pressure and type of oil is running through whatever system you're doing and whether the an lines/fittings are rated for it. Not much help but I'm sure it would be easy enough to Google or call your local hydraulic shop or an part supplier. 

    • Like 1
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