phatt20

think i got a couple of cars coming too

i hate flushing oils etc, every car iv ever seen them used on seems to end up using oil, and iv had the odd one block the oil pump pickup with the shit its flushed off the inside of the block . ive done a few cars at work now where we pull the sump and rocker cover off and steam clean them top and bottom , its the only way to get them properly clean. otherwise just leave the gunk stuck to the side of the engine where its not doing any harm.

portobello is always a good wee drive, ill  dig the ke11 out and get it wofd before then, shouldnt be a problem. hopefully.

i got a few mates that arent os members but have old toyotas and such and would be keen.

yep ill be keen

Just because people don't like certain cars does not mean that the suggestions made are terrible.

 

They fit the parameters set.There was no parameter to say it must be cool or will guarantee to have girls throw themselves at you.

 

The way I see if is if it is fast and Japanese then it is expensive and/or desirable and hence theft prone which also attracts the po-po.

 

A fast euro is not all that desirable or theft prone and older ones are not that expensive.or reliable

how long are you keeping it?  if its any length ot time just replace everything . time and time again i get cheap arse customers that dont replace water pump/oil seals etc while we are in there , and come back 20k later complaining of a water / oil leak etc . i note on all invoices for cambelts what parts werent replaced when recommended just to save arguments later.

my old workmate was mad on these, reckoned the best/cheapest fix for the shitty fuel pumps/pump motors was to wrap copper piping round the pump top to bottom and plumb the inlet of the pump to it so as it drew cool fuel thru the piping into the pump it cooled the pump motor down. never tried it personally but he showed me one he had done and swore it made them last .

dont let them talk you into injection , carbs are awesome.

/only cos i put them on everything.

^{5 Months would be normal if its a container order. Containers only leave when they are full up. If your gearbox was bought just after the last container left then it would be at the start of the next.}

^{Means you are paying very little shipping rather than fucking heaps!}

yeah i thought that was the case, and iv heard it takes a few months. just thought 5 was getting up there. not in any rush as such tho was just getting worried my gearbox might not be turning up. i shall wait and see what i hear back i guess.

how long does it normally take to get stuff roughly? i got a t50 gearbox coming but was like 5 months ago it was bought and payed for?

worst part is i got a mate who has used ewan previously to sort it all out as im not so flash with the yahoo auctions etc, so sorta feel like im pestering the middle man somewhat. .

looked up ewan on facebook but couldnt find him? not flash on facebook either mind you.

anyone ordered and recieved stuff in the last 4 or 5 months?

i run city mechanical, and yep we deal with a lot of old school cars. k series toyotas are my specialty. i used to work with lloyd i think he works at tn automotive now.  feel free to give me a txt 0272968777 , james.

i got escort metal polishers to do a bike carb manifold for me then they got it chromed somewhere, not sure where, come back mint as, but was bout 240$ odd all up. worth it tho it come up real good.

poor bugger, sorry to hear. hopefully the silly old duck doesnt have her license for much longer.

all the semi downdraft type bike carbs iv used have not been fussy at all what sort of angle iv mounted them on, its sort of one of the main advantages over sidedrafts in tight engine bays,  quite often tweak them up or down for airfilter clearance etc.

in saying that i only use late model/good cond carbs , with a factory bike fuel pump.

have txted you

didnt even think to take the camera, silly sausage. was a good day out.

could be keen but got kids that night so proly have to head off early.

for the love of god dont put su's on anything you want to go hard, if you want to use a cv type carb get some bike carbs.

i take mine down to around 6kg, while leaving heaps of meat where it needs it, then get them balanced. never had a problem with any of them, must of done over 30 by now, many of the engines they have been bolted to do 8500rpm +.

if your in dunedin area pop in and see me, james at city mechanical repairs, 90 bond st. 0272968777.

oh and bike carbs give ya more room non restrictive for air cleaners ( as long as they are the semi downdraft type)

iv used both, would almost have to say go the dellortos just for the fact you can buy an off the shelf manifold to suit so saves a bit of fucking round. most dellortos are gettin pretty long in the tooth tho so i would recommend buying new webers or similar. bike carbs tend to be better on fuel and are a lot smoother due to being a cv type carb, easy to jet, and cheap. so really depends on your fabrication skills / hook ups/ preference really. i would go sidedrafts on a 4age personally.

i wonder if 5k carb is any different to 4k

yep they have bigger venturis, and most are auto choke. lot of people sell 4k carbs as '5k' items tho so pays to know what your looking at.

the factory twin carbs work fine, just need to be balanced and jetted properly by someone that knows what they are doing.

bike carbs are best bang for buck, but being cv type they dont have the same snappy throttle response as dcoe style carbs.