ms53_wagon

OK, just went to try start it... Now the battery is flat (hopefully not the engine seized) cause it wont turn over. just goes .....click.... Will have to do more investigation tomorrow, jump start etc. If the alternator isn't charging the batt properly could this make the engine idle rough? milky cap could hopefully just be a coincidence.....? Id be stoked if it was just something to do with the alternator..........haha

cheers guys. any places in west auckland that you would recommend for getting the head skimmed/tested? for the cambelt - if you turn the engine to TDC i thought there was some notches on the cams that lined up vertically..? otherwise ill make sure i use some twink or something to mark the cams and belt etc etc. Ive got a timing light to finely adjust it afterwards. Whats a idler vs a tensioner? Cheers

Ive got a NZ new GT with blue top big port. Started it the other morning and it had slight 3 cylinder action for about a minute, never done it before.... for the last three days its had a rough idle but still driven sweet as - no noticeable loss of power. was a bit worse this morning on the way to work so i checked under the oil cap before driving home after work - lucky me its all milky under the cap!!! milky shit on the dip stick too.... also been using a little water. faaaark The temp has never got above half though and it still drives fine and revs up sweet with no power loss. Im assuming its blown head gasket or maybe a cracked head...? whats your thought? I havn't changed a HG before but I reckon I could give it a good crack, are 4age's easy or hard to do this on? What sort of cost am i looking at for a gasket set (are genuine toyota recommended?), is it a must to change cambelt/pump etc too. Do i need to get the head tested/planed? Cheers Dan

egg whites? hmm, not sure haha Lump - cheers for that info, will goggle leatherique. Im in AKL but cheers for the offer. Ive got to get a rip repaired so may talk to a upholsterer as well cheer

Hey, Anyone have any idea on some products that can "feed" or help repair small cracks in leather? got a AE82 NZ GT twincam 16 (liftback) with the classic deteriorated front leather seats! actually not too bad but lots of small hairline type cracks. Ive heard that you can condition it and the cracks will reduce and the leather become softer? I'm just not sure what product to use cheers Dan

sweet, might just pull it apart for something to do and see what the condition looks like inside, if i keep it for the ke26 i would wanna make sure its gonna be a mint runner anyways - might need some sort of rebuild..?. can you run bluetop internals (lighter, better revving?) in a redtop 7rib block? also, if its a complete redtop bigport engine, can you run bluetop ecu? or would you need redtop ecu etc? should really do some reading up on 4ages - what are some good sites - that club4age website? chur also, whats the thing the arrow points at?

sweet, 7-rib is the red top bigport aye? i heard that they are not really as good as the earlier bluetops..? dont rev as good? yea not sure what it has been in..? the owners dad who was there when i picked it up (was pissed as too haha) mentioned something about some ford race car buildings on the nth shore..? maybe it was out of a ford.... seems like a bit of a mongrel engine then.

sweet, dizzy is pretty fukd anyways, must have got smashed in transit/removal at some stage. do you think that oil drain comes off that pipe at the side of one of the cam covers?? also, that water block on the back fo the head has 2 sensors on it still, and one water pipe that comes forward to the water pump. I cant see where you would hook up heater pipes to either?

Picked up this the other evening. saw it after it just got listed on trademe for $150 bucks buynow so snapped it up. bought it more for some of the RWD accessories really. came with RWD inlet manifold, RWD timing covers, RWD water thing on the back of the head, ecu, fuel rail plus whatever is in the photos. Got a few questions about some of the photos, would be much appreciated if some knowlegable peeps could provide input! can anyone tell if this is a bluetop ECU? what is this oil feed for, an oil cooler?? turbo?? any idea why sump has been modified? is this a RWD alternator bracket or standard fwd? what the hell have they done to the water pipe here? there is an additional tapping here next to the water temp sensor. is this a bluetop dizzy? standard cams? metallic looking head gasket?? also what can i do (bar taking off head) to tell the condition of motor? the engine does turn over but i dont really know too much else to look for? spark plugs looked all the same, and clean. Is it possible to do any sort of compression test? cheers Dan

Racebrakes have always been super good to deal with for me!

someone was trying to trick me and the leads for In and EX where back to front, thats why my adjustments were not working properly and confusing the hell outta me! got both set at about 10deg BTDC now which is good. (this is with vac advance blocked off). at idle should the vac advance be working or is this only meant to work further up the revs?, mine seems to advance from about 10deg to more than 20deg even at idle. is there a way to test this is working properly? still not sure if i have hooked this up correctly yet either?

ill answer a couple of these myself. 2 - found timing mark - sweet! however this twin timing shit is hard work! haha. can get inlet sitting about 10deg BTDC but cant retard the EX anymore within the dizzy and its sitting about 20deg...hmmm its a real mind bender trying to do both at once! then if i retard the whole dizzy i can get the EX back to about 10deg but the IN is about 0deg! argh. gonna have to have a bit more of a think about this one. 4 - when vacuum is hooked up it advances the mark way of the readable values, i was just mucking round and found a spare vacuum line (open) coming off the inlet manifold so i hooked it too this. but after thinking about it, does this need to be hooked up somewhere before the throttle plate? surprised i never noticed the open vacuum line off the throttle body - think thats why idle was slightly high haha. Will keep trying cheers

Test complete: cylinder 1 = 190 cylinder 2 = 187 cylinder 3 = 185 cylinder 4 = 187 I think that is pretty good? all within about 3% of each other What exactly is this telling me? cylinders and rings are good?, valves are in good condition etc?? headgasket is sweet? Cheers

sick! couldnt get a better answer than that. Thats me tomorrow evening Cheers

Hey, This question relates to my nissan homy, z20 engine (8 spark). originally carbed but now dedicated lpg. question 1: with setting points i have normally just set the gap, but i read that it should be the dwell angle that you measure - is this hard to do/any better than just setting the points gap? question 2: I couldnt feel a timing mark on the crank wheel so whats the best way to mark the TDC point?? I could get it close but not sure how to get it exact. question 3: the old owner mentioned a timing of 10deg BTDC, can anyone confirm this. Also does anyone know what an acceptable increase in advance is for an lpg engine? or is it more trial and error? probably not fun doing trial and error with the twin spark haha question 4: I noticed the other day that the dizzy had no vacuum advance line - it was just blanked off (im guessing since the carb was changed to an lpg setup either you dont need it, or they were too lazy to hook a new one up???). anyway i hooked it back up - should i notice much of a change in the way it drives? question 5: not a timing one but - the muffler has some holes in the bottom of it, can these be welded over, or am i looking at a new muffler? Cheers! Dan

Hey, easy one here hopefully: was going to do a compression test on the van. but ran into a small issue that im not sure what to do about.. When i crank the engine the compression rises on the gauge and levels off at a value (cant remember what it was right now), but then - if i re-crank the engine it will jump up again on the first compression stroke, and again if i re-crank it. Its an 8 spark engine and i was doing it on the exhaust side but i didnt think this would matter? do i just compare the values i get from the first continuous crank till it levels off? Cheers Dan

Still have not made any headway on getting info, soo: where to look next? any ideas? Also regarding the vacuum advance on the distributor (or lack of) - Will it run better with this? or will the timing be set advanced slightly to run the lpg, and would this also split the difference of what the vacuum would advance the timing too anyway...? Cheers

posted on OZdat and fully searched their forum but have not got anywhere yet! didnt think it would be this hard hahaha. Ive seen manuals for 720 utes with the z20 but not sure if its specific for 8 spark, also dont wanna spend $60 odd bucks just to get the info....hmmmmmm

sweet as, ill leave the timing as is for now till i do some more investigation. i also notice since it has been changed to a lpg carb thingy there is no vacuum line to the dizzy, and some vacuum lines from the dizzy are just plugged. would this dizzy use vaccum advance? need to have a better look soon.... cheers

cheers man, i know the bluebirds had the z18 but maybe there is some info in there. yea two sets of points in one big mutha of a distributor! no carb now as its lpg. does anyone know if lpg effects the timing at all?

Hey, Did a google search but didnt find anything - like usual! After the points gap, timing, and valve clearance for a nissan z20(s) 8 spark engine. anyone know these settings? cheers dan

those wheels are a definite win! cant decide if i like them with bands and caps, or just bands? whitewalls will set it off too. Column shift soo epic too.

cool, pulled it out and it seems to be leaking around the top of the reservoir, pulled the lid off and the rubber gasket wasn't sealed properly so put it in correct. hopefully it will not leak again........otherwise she will have to come out again!! cheers

i have a leak in my power steering pump and was going to pull it out to repair/replace. when i put it back in, how do you go about bleeding the lines? I have never done power steering so not sure if thats what you do? must need to clear air from the lines though.... i had a quick look and couldnt see any valves to bleed?? would like to know what im up for if i pull it out, might be easier to leave it for a while if its gonna be a mission haha cheers

sweet, think the cat has long gone if it was ever there. and ill check the merry go round for missing horses, not sure where to get new ones though haha