DriveBy

Thanks.

If you put a replacement plate on it doesn't change the first registered date

Yeah but it does record plate history and date changed normally which is why I was asking if anyone had experience with this situation e.g.

http://www.carjam.co.nz/car/?plate=gjb390

yea but would normally show on the plate history.. but because its way before the electronic system then it might have been lost.. seems legit anyway

This is what I suspected and wondered if anyone had seen similar.

Cheers!

Mitsi GTO - full plate is LT6181. Was wondering if re reg'd cars back then weren't recorded just assigned a new plate.

Any of you seen later number plates on an early car?

I'm looking at a parts car/project with number plate LTxxxx but carjam says first registered new in 1973 with this plate? (May-1973). Has mileage to corroborate use on carjam.

From memory the L number plates wouldn't have been out until mid 80's?

Does anyone know what the guts with this is?

New wheels - Got a set of Advan A3A's in 14 inch. Rears are 6.5 inch and fronts are 6 inch. Offset +6. There is more room in the rear to go wider but will need guard rolling. Front has no more clearance to the guard but could fit another inch or so toward the strut. Rears running 175/65/14 and fronts 165/65/14. Surprised how much better it stops than it did with the 165 supercats on the stock 13 inch wheels. Any serious brake application use to result in more tyre squeal than stopping ability. Have had a couple of hairy moments. 

Pic of wheels:

And a pic in front of a suitably old school backdrop

Not sure what's next have been mulling over getting a pair of sidedrafts and learning about carbs. There is a poorly listed sidedraft manifold on trademe that should fit but it has no linkages so not sure if it's worth buying bits and pieces or just bite the bullet and order this:

I was going to start tidying up the body but I have come to like some of the poorly handpainted patches and dings etc. May just get the big dings out of the bumpers if it doesn't mean rechroming and try and find a front grill as the one on it is a little bit rough.

Any opinions/thoughts - //oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/42845-drivebys-1973-mitsubishi-galant-gto/

Sweet will get some tonight.

Rim with no tyre just test fitting up on the jack. Can't imagine there's enough movement when it's dropped to bring it under the guard?

Yes they come in more positive offsets?

On a mitsubishi gto. Rears are 6.5 inch with +6 offset and are flush with guards but fronts even though 6 inch stick out a good 10-15mm. Pretty keen for more flush than that.

Quick question that someone might know - I've got a set of 14 inch Advan a3a's and the 6 inch fronts have got +6 offset and stick out too far from the guards. Do they come in more positive offset? Like +16-20?

Cheers

That's not how vacuum advance really works, if you are at WOT there should be no vacuum in the manifold hence no vacuum advance. Its made to apply extra advance under cruise for a better burn/economy.

My bad. Had similar problem in starion which was vac advance. Also assumed entirely stock meant it was original engine. Might just go and peruse the pics and vids instead of trying to hang out in tech.

Vacuum advance unit issue? The diaphragms in the unit do fail/split etc.. and then can't advance the timing as the revs increase. Check that and the vacuum hose running to it.

 ...and Mitsubishi will never be a collectable nameplate...

Oh and wash your mouth out.

Have been looking for a Starion for my collection for a while now. If I want a 12-valve DASH GSR-V I'll be paying ten moonbeams to get one out of Japan, because of their collectability over there.

 

And yes, I know as soon as I bring it over here it'll only be worth $500 because it's an '80s blue smoke machine.

 

On a related note, you guys would be shocked if you saw how much BFMRs are worth in Japan now.

Even more moonbeams if you can find one would be a widebody DASH powered starion. That will be/is collectable. Or gullwing.

Starion.

Yes

Ford Falcon all the way. They can haul everything in the back just like a people mover only longer, way cooler, and they don't look like a loaf of bread with the end sawn off crooked. I'm on my third EA wagon. First one was still running sweet with 463,000 on the clock when it got crashed, second one the auto trans shit reverse with over 450,000 on it, got a manual one now with only 250,000 odd on it so I'm good for a few years as long as the rust doesn't kill it.

He's looking for a $20k wagon not a $200 wagon.

Springs were only a pair of fronts as the rears are leaves so maybe that's why cheap?

Snells springs has blown out apparently and no longer in bizzness.

Hey Driveby, if you don't mind me asking, do you have any idea on prices? I'm hoping he will be able to do something similar for my car. Cheers.

Springs including freight were around 250 from memory. Also got new shock inserts (powered brand) and got him to machine the front struts to accept, new bump stops and dust covers etc and that was 350 freight included.

I used a dude called Chris Alexander from Suspension Tech Ltd in Auckland:

suspension tech ltd c/- E&H motors 179 manukau rd pukekohe

Email address: rallyeescort@icloud.com

Found his details on trademe and he matched up a spring I sent him for a shorter spring with same rate etc.. and a couple inches lower. Ended up being a dobi sport spring I think and the ride is spot on both height wise and firmness. He can also do custom springs he told me if need be but usually he can match what you want. I think I had to give him measurements between spring perch heights too.

He had a quick turnaround and was pretty good with communication so would trade again in that regard.

Good luck

Got the rear springs in quicker than expected so now she's closer to the ground and doesn't have the ass in the air anymore.

Needs wheels now. Will start looking for some 14's. Originals are 13's.

Thanks everyone will just go with first plan and cut it down and jam it back.

Yeah thought that myself but no access from above. To be honest it is really fucking me off. Don't want to jam it back up with liquid nails but might have to after I've chopped a couple inches off it.

Bit of an update. Have changed front to some lower springs and shorter shocks. Inserts in the front shock housings were changed and the ride is slightly firmer but not bad at all:

Struggling with the rear. Ordered some 2 inch blocks which were apparently guaranteed to fit, unfortunately blocks didnt's fit, u-bolts were wrong bit of a blow out so decided to get the rear leaves reset instead. 

Mission getting the old bolts off etc...

Also ripped bump stop off and can't figure out how they come out properly so I can replace them. Pissing me off to be honest.

But I did get the reset leaves and new u-bolts back and they look good. Will get around to fitting them in the next couple weeks.

Hi all,

Have been attacking suspension on my GTO and i have ripped the rear bump stop on one side out and for the life of me can't figure out how they are replaced or what.

Pics:

I want to shorten these anyway but does anyone know how these are replaced? I have whacked the metal bit that looks like it is pressed into the body and no joy. I can't imagine the little rubber knob that has ripped off just pushes in? I will resort to gluing it in if needs be but I want to do this properly.

Also if anyone knows where to buy new ones that'd be appreciated too!

Wrist bands are snake oil tbh. Paihia bombs are a combination of a downer and an upper. Downer is the bit that makes the sickness go away but makes you a bit drowsy, upper is to counteract the drowsiness. Think these days the downer is phenergan and the upper is a caffeine tablet but not 100% on that.

Sealegs is pretty good. Have a coffee/redbull if it causes drowsiness. Have used and can recommend.

There is a pharmacist only product called nausicalm which is a tablet as well. (Also sought by druggies so usually kept out of sight and sold to legitimate people only). Can cause a bit more drowsiness.

Patch is called Scopoderm. Is pretty good but has some side effects too. Patch goes on behind the ear and lasts for up to 72 hours.

Be aware that all the above can react with alcohol (ie decreases your tolerance) which may/may not be a good thing. 

This happened to me once, had taken battery out, put back in and didn't tighten battery terminal connectors. Fixed by tightening connectors. Felt a bit dumb but oh well.