Lump

Does anyone know where I can get these in NZ - I'm looking to use one of these as a captive nut for my transmission mount at the edge of the trans tunnel it currently just held by a free nut which is a bit of a pain when I have to undo it (I don't have the equipment to weld the existing nut in - its also under carpet with a lot of horsehair type sound deadening material which looks very flammable)

This thread 's made me realize that its time I need to spend time on my car rather than cash - so its motivated me to get off my arse and fit the replacement parts I've saved up over the years.

I put aside a few hours this weekend and replaced my blocked up bleeder screws and re bled the front brakes.

I also swapped the upholstery from my broken front seat frame onto a replacement seat (from a later model with different trim colour etc) - why did I wait 2 years to do that?

On the to do list:

replace wiper rack (currently worn out and won't hold firmly against the screen so a bit smeary) - got it

replace fabric inside door seals - again I have this brought at a swap meet a few year ago

tidy up door cards and refit lock linkages

fix reversing light

fix speedo cable clicking noise.

fit relay to headlight switch before I burn another one out.

hide ecu and speedo electric drive (currently sitting on the front parcel shelf covered with a floor mat)

All in all the small annoying stuff - probably lots more to list.

If I was going to spend a grand and a week I'd pull the engine and get the engine bay prepped and painted but that's against the rules.

Have you got a multimeter? With your extra electrical load turned on (lights and stuff), measure the voltage at the output stud of your alternator, and the positive terminal of your battery, interested to see what they are.

 

The voltage regulator on the alternator might be failing and overcharging - this happened on my motorbike and the temp gauge overread as its internal voltage regulator (12v down to 7v) couldn't handle the increased loads from the charging system.

Do your gauges over read more when the engine is running faster?

Just wondering if an old ignition coil I have lying around is a possible replacement for the one I have in the car.

The cars running a later Jag engine with electronic ignition (triggered of sensor wheel on the crank) The coil used is a Lucas DLB125

The other coil I have is a Champion CIC31. (This is from the jags old Chev V8 with aftermarket electronic ignition)

I done some googling - But I'm getting very confused where the descriptions talk about 'no ballast resitor' or similar. I'm not sure whether this means the coil doesn't have a ballast resistor and should have one or if it means it is internally resisted and therefore doesn't need a ballast resistor.

Could someone clear up how this works?

Cheers for the heads up, free shipping still seems to be going - just ordered myself some new shocks

The new rear suspension came from a car I got from the wreckers - The chances of finding the last owner and them knowing what grease was in it seem pretty slim.

As you say it most likely a ltihium grease and compatible with mine so I might have to mix em and hope for the best

I think I might have some in the shed. I'll have a look tonight.

Cheers Valiant,  much appreciated

Maybe dumb q but why's copper better? Just coz weaker ignition system?

Probably isn't better,  basically i need the copper ones to connect directly to the coil and spark plug cap

I'm having some on going ignition issues with my bike at the moment.

I'd like to replace the ignition leads - the current ones are a short length with a copper stranded center which attaches to the coils and spark plug caps.

I tried buying an new ignition lead to cut up to replace them but it had a different centre without the copper and could be substiuted.

Can you still get the copper centred ones and how to I spot the difference when picking them off the shelf at repco etc. 

I swapped the rear suspension unit on my Jag last year and now I need to top up the grease in the rear bearings.

I know that some types of greases can't be mixed with others

http://www.mindconnection.com/library/handyman/greasecompat.htm

But I don't know what grease is in there currently (I think its a silvery colour). Is there a method where I can test if two grease types are compatible? (my other wheel bearing is gulf western blue)

PS I know the fool proof way would be to pull them apart and clean the old grease out and repack but these rear hubs are a specialist job and I'd rather just keep up the maintenance than fix something that ain't broken yet

Uggh not fun.

Did mine last year - I won't offer any advice because I obviously muffed it - hand brake pads came off the backing caused all sorts of weird issues (brakes sticking in reverse etc) Half way through fixing it now (I've taken the handbrake system off while waiting for the parts to arrive)

Nissan Pulsar (Milano) Although yours seem to be much more tastefull than anything I've seen - usually the centres are green tartan

http://todriveautos.com/im/nissan-pulsar-milano-x1-e/nissan-pulsar-milano-x1-e-01008.jpg

As everyone else has said any rust seen will be the tip of the iceberg

Its a 76 so it will be a series 2 (likely NZ assembled but some were UK assembled NZ new) the electrical switches on these cars have a reputation for being a bit flimsy - this wasn't really fixed until until midway through Series 3 production.

Engine wise you're best with the 4.2 - the 3.4 and 2.8 versions use just as much petrol while being slower (and in the early 2.8L's case a tendency to hole pistons)

In short if your Mums going to get one make sure its in top condition ad she has a mechanic nearby whose happy to deal with it - when sorted they're fantastic cars - get a bad Jag though and it'll be a drain on your time, finance's and sanity 

Cheers Guys,

I was about to order when I found a new set on tardme at a good price. I'll give dime city a go for other items in future.

Hey Guys,

I've got a Honda GL400 1984 and the rear shocks are leaking badly - can anyone recommend somewhere that can sell me a decent set of aftermarket shocks (locally or via the interwebs I'm not fussed).

I've tried a few places round Christchurch and all they could offer me were Hagon shocks which would cost more than the whole bike!

http://www.trademe.c...n-563651522.htm

Saw some factory testing video of these on youtube a few years ago. Never knew they actually made them though

Nice score on the spare parts, those side repeater lamp are impossible to find for one side (can't remember which one though)

To be honest, I'd throw some rust converter into the seams then the cavity wax. I wish Bilt Hamber products were available here. Their cavity wax is designed to cope with rusted surfaces. It might be worth importing some depending on your project's ultimate value.

I hear you about the Bilt Hamber stuff it sounds pretty awesome. PPC Australia have it listed on there website http://por15.com.au/ (doesn't seem to be on the NZ one) I'll start cleaning up the cavities and see if I can order some through them

Are you going to block the drainage holes in the doors with the wax? Might not be the best. But I could be misunderstanding your plan.

Nah the product is applied pretty thinly and shouldn't block holes that big, I'll check they're clear before putting the door cards back on anyhow

I've got a couple of aerosol cans of cavity wax and I'm planning on doing the bottoms of the Jags door cavities, there's a decent amount of dirt built up at the bottom or each door I've got most of it out but they're still a bit grimey. (doesn't seem to be any rust yet though)

I'm going to have a go at them with some PH neutral soap and a thin paint brush tomorrow to try and get them clean before the cavity wax goes on.

Is this the best way to go about this? I don't want to trap any dirt and moisture under the wax as I'd imagine that would just cause rust rather than prevent it.

Cheers guys, I've been saving up some coin to get this fixed - I'll give these guys a call and see what can be done

Ok I believe, my plate was different;

I think I used to know the guy you sold this to. I remember that TC badge on the centre of the bonnet. I had a Ming Blue 2500 at the same time

I might be keen if the old man brings his Zodiac along

I've got some tin worm that needs removing from the Jag. Its in a box section under the bolt off wing

Can anyone suggest anywhere good to have this cut out and rewelded? Looking for a good job but not wanting to spend a small fortune (not that panel work usually works like that )

Jaguar XJ6 is pretty much the same, series 1 through 2

Only series 1 is closed with no vacuum - series 2 onwards are the opposite

Was thinking of picking up one of these.

I like the way they're kinda fugly.

Anybody got experience

I picked up a de-reged GL400 of trademe a few year ago which had sat in a shed for about five years, change oil, coolant, and brake fluid (which had dried out! - master cylinder needed new seals shortly after) and she's been fine more or less since. They're a little top heavy but you get used to them, and while a smooth comfortable ride they're not exactly high performance.

Apparently the thing that can go wrong is the water pump but I haven't had any issue with mine.

I had a mark 2 which never let me down. They have excellent open road handling much better than most cars of the era

I say do it.