Lump

I got a ride in the Telsa S model (the red one) for two laps - amazing acceleration.

Hi Guys, 

I know we more on the internal combustion side of things around here - but a friend of mine told me about this and it looks pretty interesting.

Figured I'd put it up in here in case anyone else hadn't heard of it who might be interested.

http://evolocity.co.nz/

AJ6 Engine running Carbs - had they ditched the ECU as well and just run a standard distributor?

mainly a few cars that have been at the work shop recently










 

Are the coils/leads breaking down as the engine heats up?

Had a similar issue with my bike last year - the spark plug caps were failing (resistance greatly increasing) it would start and then stop shortly afterwards - eventually it wouldn't start full stop.

Pretty difficult to diagnose when its only happening intermittently 

Go to the supermarket and get some banana boxes - they'll have shit loads of these and you should be able to get them for free. They're really sturdy can be opened and closed easily, good size easy to stack and even different brands of banana's have the same size box.

Righto - got everything bolted back together and it seems to have cured it.

Been for a quick test drive and haven't heard it squeaking - I guess time will tell ifs really gone.

Can't believe that little wear could cause so much noise - it must have been fine wearing in its grooves most of the time and then being occasionally put in a different position making the squeak and then moving back into its usual range of motion.

Cheers for the help guys - much appreciated.

Checked the rear hubs today - both seemed to have that barely noticeable play that a lot of Pommie cars have.

I've pulled the drivers side hub and removed the half shaft (this seemed to be the side the noise was from) the inner UJ by the diff was nice and smooth while the outer one was a little 'notchy'. I removed the notchy one and its got some wear showing - its seems pretty light but I guess I'll know if this was the cause when I put it back together.

 

Assuming IRS. Check wheel bearings for play and hub nuts tight.

(Do jags have hub nuts?)

Yup looks like the picture below (not mine but the same). Haven't noticed any play but will double check.

I've removed the handbrake mechanisms cables etc. had one loose pad in one and a stone stuck in another one. - That'll be it I thought.

Went for a test drive without the handbrake - its not the handbrake! Must be one of the rear UJ's I seem to be able to trigger it by turning left suddenly (sometimes).

Time to order some UJ's and get hold of a hub puller

I've been getting a weird intermittent chirping noise from my Jag lately - most noticeable at low speeds (almost like a monkey laughing) - it happens sometimes when going over bumps or around corners or just going straight and it is car speed dependent but not engine speed dependent. (I've given the car a good bounce from each corner but there are no noises when its stationary)

I've got the car up on stands at the moment (not for the first time with this issue) and its a real head scratcher - can't spot anything rubbing (exhaust pipes cables pipes etc.) - there doesn't seem to be any play or wear in the UJ's and the rear brakes have already been given a good soaking in brake cleaner.

I haven't ruled out it coming from the front - the lower wishbone bushes do look like they've had it (although it does sound like its coming from the rear)

Any suggestions?

What's that next to it on the right?

Mk2 Zephyr?

Looking sharp!

You got a good score with that crack free dash and interior parts

Check out Thunder Road - Moonshine runners - Q Cars with power mills - uptight feds and Robert Mitchum

The car rolling at 1:44 was an accident which they kept in the picture even though it doesn't make much sense.

Lump did you build your jag at an old printing workshop that had like 10 minis parked out the back?

If so, I did a burnout outside in my mustang and sitting in your XJ has given me an unshakeable urge to buy one for the past 4 years...

No I built it outside at a campervan depot surrounded by Estimas and Hiaces. - they've upgraded now and have a roof and a couple of hoists which is great when I need to have a look underneath - would have been awesome to have had the roof back when I did the build. 

AJ6 powered XJ6, fucking nice _b

 

What sort of MPG do you get with it? 

I drove from CHCH to Motueka at christmas time and kept tapping the gauge cause It though it was stuck - think it was about 35mpg on that run  - which given the hills etc I thought was pretty good - wsn't a fluke either cause it got the same going back

It varies around town I live about 5 mins away from work so my commuting figures aren't great if I just do that - if I get in some mixed around town driving it'll go up  to maybe 350km on a 50L tank 

My Jag had a 350 Chev in it when I first got it - I found it a bit thirsty at $2.XX a litre, so when the transmission shit the bed I swapped in a later Jag engine (these are called AJ6's - see signature below) from the square looking XJ40's

This might sound like an odd choice in terms of reliability but these engines do have a bulletproof reputation (not so much the rest of the car that was attached to them) good performance and good economy. They're also available in plenty of rusty UK imported XJ40's. Best of all these engines were also used in the 6 cylinder XJS's (which share a floor pan with the S1-3 XJ6's) so they fit around the front cross member (XJS mounts can be used or you can make your own) and I only needed to add two extra holes to mount the trans. As an added bonus my engine control ECU is made by Lucas

Looking very dapper there sir.

 

I just thought the giant back seat to do shit in and very nice appearance meant that it'd be worth consideration.

 

Shucks. 

 

Would you recommend a Morris/Wolseley/Vauxhall Viva instead as a more reliable platform?

Any old school car is going to require work.

If you want an old Jag - buy one, they're not too expensive and they don't make em anymore - just be aware its not all connolly leather and walnut veneer.

Interwebs are a wealth of info on these old girls - and its pretty easy to work out what you can tackle yourself and whats best left to the pro's (there are plenty of mechanics who know they're not that scarey and will work on them - just a matter of finding them).

If it still sounds a bit daunting buy a Triumph 2000 instead (I still miss mine)

We sell similar kind of things for seatbelt anchor points at work, there are various sizes and configurations. Mostly commonly sold plate is I think 80x40 with a single nut welded in the centre

Ah that must be whats holding the other side on (I've done an engine/trans swap on it - XJ40 engine and trans into a series 1 XJ6 - the transmission mount has four mounting points - two of which match the original factory points - so two new mount holes had to be drilled - I got the engine and trans out of a series 2 which had had the same engine swap although the later models only need one new transmission mount hole drilled and that had a plate which sounds like what you're describing used to attach it)

So it sounds like a rivnut isn't a go, I'll try drilling and tapping a piece of flatbar as TIm13 suggested or getting one of these anchor points and amending it to work.

Cheers Guys,

Does anyone know where I can get these in NZ - I'm looking to use one of these as a captive nut for my transmission mount at the edge of the trans tunnel it currently just held by a free nut which is a bit of a pain when I have to undo it (I don't have the equipment to weld the existing nut in - its also under carpet with a lot of horsehair type sound deadening material which looks very flammable)

This thread 's made me realize that its time I need to spend time on my car rather than cash - so its motivated me to get off my arse and fit the replacement parts I've saved up over the years.

I put aside a few hours this weekend and replaced my blocked up bleeder screws and re bled the front brakes.

I also swapped the upholstery from my broken front seat frame onto a replacement seat (from a later model with different trim colour etc) - why did I wait 2 years to do that?

On the to do list:

replace wiper rack (currently worn out and won't hold firmly against the screen so a bit smeary) - got it

replace fabric inside door seals - again I have this brought at a swap meet a few year ago

tidy up door cards and refit lock linkages

fix reversing light

fix speedo cable clicking noise.

fit relay to headlight switch before I burn another one out.

hide ecu and speedo electric drive (currently sitting on the front parcel shelf covered with a floor mat)

All in all the small annoying stuff - probably lots more to list.

If I was going to spend a grand and a week I'd pull the engine and get the engine bay prepped and painted but that's against the rules.

Have you got a multimeter? With your extra electrical load turned on (lights and stuff), measure the voltage at the output stud of your alternator, and the positive terminal of your battery, interested to see what they are.

 

The voltage regulator on the alternator might be failing and overcharging - this happened on my motorbike and the temp gauge overread as its internal voltage regulator (12v down to 7v) couldn't handle the increased loads from the charging system.

Do your gauges over read more when the engine is running faster?

Just wondering if an old ignition coil I have lying around is a possible replacement for the one I have in the car.

The cars running a later Jag engine with electronic ignition (triggered of sensor wheel on the crank) The coil used is a Lucas DLB125

The other coil I have is a Champion CIC31. (This is from the jags old Chev V8 with aftermarket electronic ignition)

I done some googling - But I'm getting very confused where the descriptions talk about 'no ballast resitor' or similar. I'm not sure whether this means the coil doesn't have a ballast resistor and should have one or if it means it is internally resisted and therefore doesn't need a ballast resistor.

Could someone clear up how this works?

Cheers for the heads up, free shipping still seems to be going - just ordered myself some new shocks