Lump

No mine was a Chrysler Avenger with the Square Headlights 1300 manual it belonged to my Great Aunt - my dads still got it in a shed somewhere - unfortunately the the paint all blistered and its covered in rusty pockmarks

I see Chrysler Alpines are on the list too. There used to be a very tidy early eighties one around in Christchurch often near the Hornby Mitre 10 it was 'Apache Red' like my old Avenger (think Dukes of Hazard Orange) I haven't seen it in a while though,

I spotted one a few weeks ago but looks like you've already got it on the list

As above Cheers again.

I got Extreme Automotive in CHCH (they were on the outlets page for Autostop) to order some new front pads down for the Jag as above - just needed to show them a copy of the PDF. The guy reckoned they'd be cheap and nasty but they turned out to be Raybestos which is pretty decent and not to shabby at $6.50.

Needed a rear set as well but those were the regular price as they weren't on the list - still came out ahead I reckon.

Has it been registered all this time - I remember with mine most the previous owners details aren't available full stop as the car wasn't registered in 199? when all the records were computerised.

I think I'm in love....

Finally traced this problem down - a lot of people had suggest bad ground so I thought I'd double check that but they all turned out good.

I was then thinking about running a 12v source to bypass the ignition switch - kill switch etc in case any wiring was shorting out in that area - I was trying to work out where to run the power to and I thought I'd just check the resistance from the positive battery lead (the battery was out being recharged at the time) to the 12v wires that lead to the coils.

Everything read as expected but then I noticed that the resistance shot up if I moved the positive battery lead around - up down left right etc. I removed the lead (which lead to the starter solenoid) and all the braided metal is breaking down at the starter solenoid end (weirdly the starter has never given any issues) the 12v lead to the rest of the loom branches off where the main positive lead attaches to the starter solenoid. 

Knowing that the starter motor is still getting enough juice somehow I took the lead for the rest of the loom and attached it straight to the battery positive terminal and goodbye ignition troubles - she's been running fine for three days now! Theres a few pics of the lead below the smaller red wire was leading the the main fuse / rest of the loom before I bypassed it.

So all in all it kind of was a bad ground - only on the other side of the battery - I'm a new lead made up for it and hopefully she keeps on trucking as its been pretty bloody irritating getting to the bottom of this problem.

 

Roger Moores hitting the town.

Here's an unusual one, seen on The Terrace this week.

 

Thanks guys,

The cars getting towed away shortly but hasn't been written off yet so I'll try and avoid holing the tank or any other damage, the fuel pump looks like it can be removed to give access tot he tank but its got a very fragile looking plastic locking ring.

I'll try getting into the return line - sounds like the best bet.

Cheers

After 20 years of loyal service my sister managed to write off my Mum's old XR6. 

Its currently sitting outside my place waiting to be assessed where it will be written off I'm sure.

Before it gets towed off I'm trying to syphon the fuel tank (it had a full tank at the time of the accident and it seems foolish to let this disappear when there are lawn mowers, motorbike, twin tanked jaguars lying about)

I've got a jiggle syphon hose (with the brass fiiting in it) and it worked great for the first quarter of the tank but now I can't get it to work (no luck using it just a hose and trying to suck it through either) - do these tanks have a baffle or anti-syphoning device fitted or is there some other trick to getting the fuel out?

Coils tested as being fine.

Thought maybe the plugs were fouling makng it difficult to restart - I tightened up a few of the intake clamps which got the plugs reading nice and clean and took it for a decent ride to recharge the battery and everything looked good - but then it nearly left me stranded in town not firing properly - though I managed to baby it home.

- Ive had a look at the battery with a hydrometer tester and it looks like I've got a bad cell. The ignition systems in these bikes win't run without a battery and a dud one will cause all sorts of problems(apparently) - I'll look into replacing this and see if it helps

Spotted this outside a plumbers supply place today

Cheers for the pointers guys, I've found some possible replacements but I've left the coils at the auto sparky's to be fully tested before I order them

Some mates of mine had one for a hire car in the States a few years ago - they came to the conclusion 'PT' stood for Pretty Tragic 

Just going from memory here, but some earlier CXs have high and low speed ignition ciruits. Sounds like one is failing.
Not sure if the Ignitec units are still around, likely superseded by now, but is fully tunable after market system. Wasn't cheap, and earlier bikes require bodging or later spec stator.

I hate spark issues - no opinion on what's happening, but remember the stator/magneto is another possible source of your issue.

I think those are the earlier CDI ignitions (mine has the TI system which is 'apparently more reliable') I have discounted the stator as a possible issue as the charging system seems to run well when the bike is running.

Its starting to look like I should try swapping the coils out to see if this fixes things - can anyone recommend somewhere to buy aftermarket coils for bikes?

Looking at the vehicles in my signature and the issues in the topic - you'd probably assume this is the Jag playing up but no its the trusty old Honda GL400 (basically a CX500),

Basically the issue is it will start and run fine when its sunny and it will start and run fine when its raining but if the weathers in between, misty or overcast or starting to blow up into a storm I just get a whole heap of cranking with little ignition.

If I can get it to fire up it requires a lot of throttle to keep it running and it won't rev past about 5k. It can be driven like this but it needs full throttle and a lot of riding the clutch to get it moving and it ain't quick - sometimes it will snap back to running correctly but not always.

I have had ignition problems in the past with this bike - the following parts have been recently replace - plug leads, spark plugs, ignition switch, ignitor boxes (these tell the coils when to spark). In an effort to help with this issue I've cleaned up the kill switch and re-taped the ignition leads but it desn't seem to have made a difference

I have tested the system using the info in the following link when its running and everything seems fine - this bike has the transistor ignition 

http://www.genebitsystems.com/david/MotorcycleElectrical/IgnitionProblems.htm

- although the spark appeared to be pretty weak and the plugs a bit fouled.

Could this be a coil issue? - I've heard of them stopping running after a few minutes but never like this - an old mechanic once told me they ran better during a Norwester does that mean they could stop working enough to effect the bike in other conditions?

Need some 25amp old style glass cylindrical fuses, and also some that are '25amp 12amp continuous' wtf is this and where can i get them!?

You should just be able to get them at Repco etc.  the modern fuses use the continuous rating so buy the 12 amp ones (15 is probably the closest you can get.) follow this link for more info

http://www.groups.tr-register.co.uk/nene-valley/docs/Library/Electrical%20Fuse%20-%20English%20Lucas%20Vs%20USA%20BUSS.pdf

My Jag says to use 35amp fuses but they are 17amp (20 amp) under the continuous rating

Rolling Resto.....

Spotted this while out and about today

Double Bugger - didn't realise this was on and couldn't have made it either

With manual overdrive!

I'm running Maxxis MA P1's on the Jag -nice and quiet and seem to be a good all rounder and only about $20 more per corner than the ACME Ditchfinders (HiFly). I got mine through a friend who runs a campervan business so he gets a good deal on tyres - they might be a little more expensive elsewhere (got mine for $90 a corner but I had to fit them myself) 

I'd recommend them in a flash - I'm not sure how rigged tyre review websites are but they seem pretty good reviews and I'd agree with most of the opinions.

http://www.productreview.com.au/p/maxxis-ma-p1.html

http://www.tyrereviews.co.uk/Tyre/Maxxis/MA-P1.htm

Hi All,

I've got a broken speedo cable on my motorbike, problem is that Parrots don't open until the 18th.

Does anyone know another place in CHCH that does speedo cable repairs.

Try Parrots

http://www.eparrott.co.nz/