OSM Garage

The mirrors you saw on trademe might have been mine

http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=686835112

I can get them brand new but would be more expensive. 

The gearbox you need is the KM119 found in 4G32 fitted cars (EX Lancer, Sigma etc) A gearbox from a 4G63 L200 or Sigma will fit physically but you will have troubles with finding a clutch plate. The KM132 (4G63 L200, Sigma box) has a different spline count and uses a larger diameter clutch plate.

You can get a custom plate made of course but if you find a KM119 box I think you will be able to use your existing clutch (Not 100% on that).

Heres a lot of info on the KM132 box (as well as others)

http://www.lilevo.com/mirage/Manuals/RWD%20Manual%20Transmission%20R4M21-R5M21-V5M21%20PWEE8914-ABCDEFGHI%2022A.pdf

Also have a read of this

http://www.hoonboy.com/?page_id=208

Needs to be in my driveway

why the fuck is it your problem?

Do you read before you blurt things out?

He wants to buy the coilovers back - Will become his problem

All my parts arrived over the holidays so I got the ol man to fit the valve stem seals, cam belts, water pump etc.

Got motor back together and back in the hole

The new addition to the engine bay is power steering (and the spaghetti exhaust)

Got it running and took it for a test hoon. Without setting the timing, idle air and tps it goes very well. Hard to gauge if it is better than the old DOHCa but is pretty awesome down low.

And the best news is....... IT NO LONGER SMOKES!

BUT, it wasnt all good news. There was a coolant leak at the back of the motor somewhere. Couldnt see where it was coming from so I had to pull the motor back out  

Turns out one of the frost plugs had a hole in it. Offending frost plug replaced and the engine is back in the hole hopefully for the last time. Didnt get a chance to run it tonight. Will take it for a thrash tomorrow.

We all like squiggly exhaust manifolds.

Whilst the motor was out I set out to make one of those spaghetti manifolds. When I say make, I mean take some pre-made headers and slap a 4G63 flange on.

Here are the headers I scored off madmitsi

Scored a stainless manifold for VR4/EVO off Trademe for $1.50. You can see ive already made the chop.

This is when I found out shit wasnt gonna be easy. Angles were all wrong and had bugger all room in the engine bay. The headers were originally 4-2-1 but decided to make my own 4-1 merge collector.

Long story short, finished product

2) get it running ok and drive it as is! come to some OS meets etc.

 

Why would he want to come to an OS meet after the negative input you all have thrown at him. 

Mate, find a good head specialist and have a chat. Discuss your goals and they will lead you in the right direction/if its possible.

Have you tried putting it on hold online?

Might not be de-regd

Yep, 4G32 had the KM119 gearbox whereas the 4G63 uses the KM132

The KM119 is slightly smaller

And input shaft is smaller. 

Yeah, I think so. The one where Waterworks is on.

Spotted in the Coromandel 

A few Valiants

A solid Sigma

And a few agricultural machines

Nah, 4G32 and 4G63 run different clutches

Double check the diameter of the 2 struts bro. Starion might be slightly bigger so the sleeve on the other struts may not fit.

RE: Lancer problems - Story of my life

Would the only difference between the EVO and RVR be the timing? (CAS vs Trigger wheel?)

Motor out time

Im in the middle of putting all the bits from one motor to the other.

The motor on the left is the next victim. Im going to be doing the valve stem seals regardless. A lot easier to do with it on an engine stand. Waiting for my cambelts to arrive from America. Once they arrive I can full assemble the engine and slap it in.

Still havent found out what the issue was/is. The EGR port was clogged with oil gunk.

Depending on when the cambelts arrive I should hopefully have this running next week and maybe have this back on the road. If this engine is as bad as the last one its definitely rebuild time.

Have a great new years everyone 

Ive stripped the engine of all the bits I dont need. I just need it down to a "Long block" situation.

Spent today pulling it down some more and degreasing.

The rebuild idea is on hold. Going to slam this motor in and see if its an OK runner.

I pulled the exhaust manifold off the engine thats currently in my wagon and found a lot of oil around port 4 and a lot of build up. The oil feed for turbo'd motors is just above this port. I have a feeling the head is cracked in this area but im unsure.

I will inspect better when the engine comes out. Ive got a bit of time off work over the break so will crack on with the swap then.

The gbox I put in this didnt have a gear knob. I had to borrow the one from my DOHC wagon.

Because im tight and HATE parting with money, I decided to make one.

I was walking around work looking for something round, long and that we have plenty of lying at work.

So I spun a long nut down to fit inside the tube. Tapped the nut to M10x1.25 and welded inside. Chopped the wrench half way-ish.

Presto 

Adjustie talk gbox cuz

Pointless update over.

Yeah cut the front sigma springs. That's what im running.

For the rear I didn't have to change my shocks. The springs stay captive with the golf springs in.

If you can grab these for cheap - http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-parts-accessories/volkswagen/auction-668630231.htm - Use the front springs in the rear. 

Ive got unknown brand lowering springs in the rear of mine and it sits perfectly in the spring perches. 

For the front cut the springs and get the shock shortened/shorter shocks

Put the engine at TDC, number 1 firing.

There is a dot on the dizzy gear and a line on the shaft of the dizzy. Line these marks up.

There is a line where the stud pokes thru when you tighten up the dizzy. When you slot the dizzy in the hole make sure the stud is in line with this mark.

Trying to find pictures but its proving difficult 

Sorry for pulling this thread from the depths.

Do you need to register to use this service?

Is there an english version or do you need to know Japanese to use?

If they do get the car back, I'm not even sure I'd want to sit in it again at this stage. We'll see when it's recovered anyway how it goes in person. 

I know exactly what you mean by that.

Rather catch the fucker.

HOLE....LEE....JESUS!

I called VTNZ and they told me what it was stickered for.

I couldn't believe one of the reasons was for no spare tyre!

A163A I think is the chassis code for a GSR Sigma that's RWD

Id say you'd have a hard time trying to find a "Haynes" manual for the Japanese import models.

And I think the chassis number for the FWD GSR is E15A?