-
Posts
22886 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
3
Posts posted by Bling
-
-
You may already know this, but in theory that fitting wont work as it will be backwards. Unless of course all your fittings are backwards too, in which case.... carry on
If you have a stash of connections lying around, go in to a plumbing world or similar and grab a 3/8" (I think) galv tee and have your 2 feeds on the straight section with the outlet to your gun on the branch. Just an option. Galv tee should cost bugger all.
I'd just mask the lip of the wheel up and spray the rest. Once finished with the colour, just lightly sand (think someone mentioned it actually) the spokes so the paint comes off, then clear coat the whole lot.
-
Nice photos
Nice to see a corona amongst them, it all its brown liftback glory
-
Looks like you got it easy
Wheres all the glue that sticks to EVERYTHING?? I've never had screens come out that clean
-
Looks to be the same colour as mine, will have a look tonight.
-
Fuck thats a score Looks immaculate!
-
Isn't that the positive?
Surely it earths through the bracket / engine. Well all the ones i've seen have
-
1: Problem: You're not hitting it hard enough with a big enough hammer
You are only wanting to hit the arm the ball joint goes through side on to the section the ball joint passes through.
2: However if that doesn't work then refer to 1.
-
Most of the front mounts out there are probably for looks anyway. I'm sure there are cases wheres its needed, but i'd say more would be fine with smaller better suited coolers.
-
Just assumed by strut he meant the whole 'leg' shock/strut
-
I'm assuming you're referring to the front shocks? If not ignore this..
Putting springs in too low can mean they are no captive (held tightly by the strut) which is a WOF fail. Shortening the struts, means that they will keep the springs captive/legal. This may or may not be an issue in your case.
-
-
If you plan on roughly a 50mm lowering, yeah. Match em to your planned lowering
-
This any good for DIY car repairs? Panels etc. 30A low enough to not blow holes? /no idea about welders
http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing ... =252834461
Just working out the most economical way to fix all the gaping holes left by rust in my rona
-
So BNT, Repco, supercheap can't get anything?
-
A lot, tis gunna be mean
-
Can't just slot the holes then?
-
Keep up the photos and updates, it might even motivate me to get mine out from the cover
Very keen to see how this pans out as one day i'd like to put a 1j/uz in mine too
-
Tried my worst, if this poor effort doesn't put you off nothing will
-
-
Think of it as health insurance, which really... it is. Paying out and not having to 'claim' is actually a good thing. Though some will always cry about how much it costs no matter how much it is. The only reason you claim is if you end up having an accident and end up needing health care. Don't pay your ACC and all of a sudden it does get privatised, then fees go up even more, then the kicker, you file a claim with the now private insurance company and they tell you to fuck off.
Its then you realise that, wow paying for ACC on my rego wasn't so bad compared to now having to fork out for private health insurance just to get treatment. Governments the devil, only out there to rip us off etc *yawn emoticon*
I'll pay what I have to in ACC fees as i'd rather keep the system how it is now. Those that think we are getting screwed over now, keep crying till ACC is no longer and you find you pay MORE for LESS.
/blah
A rego / reg on hold and driving on the road still will hopefully end in massive fines If you can't afford to be on the road legally get the fuck off it. ACC fees might even drop if there were less idiots on the road.
-
-
99% sure I saw ya yesterday @ hagley roundabout around 1:30. Looking good man, should keep the paint as is looks mint
I was in the black levin that some person decided to try T-bone on the round about in front of ya
-
Cheap and high CFM don't go together, theres another thread around as someone asked the same question. Some people manage with cheap ones. I'd find the thread but too lazy, so have a look, something along the lines of what size compressor.
-
If its running constantly i'd say you'll want some decent airflow. Mine gets farking hot if run continuous, not sure how hot they can operate at though. Maybe a door at each end would help.
Nice looking pad you go there, meshed it too, hardout Sucks hard to be your neighbours haha
side note: I have a concrete post I ripped out from a fence in 'ok' condition lying around if its of any use. Probably not
Cheviot Hotwire Baked On Paint Removal
in Tech Talk
Posted
Using beach sand is dangerous, as is using glass. Using glass isn't as harsh on what you're blasting, but will stick into whatever you are blasting. Garnet ftw imo. Doesn't break down like the others and is safer to use. Still not safe to use, but of those 3 types, its better, use all the safety gear too imo.
I haven't blasted wheels with it yet, but have done smaller parts in my blasting cabinet and the garnet does a good job which leaves a surface perfect for painting.
I got this branded garnet from a local blasting company (big company and its all they use) http://garnetsales.com/ ~$40 for 25kg. No good if you are just going to spray it all around ya back yard though