Bling

2 hours ago, kws said:

I'll tell you what, it may be a weird looking wee thing, but having picked it up today it goes pretty well. 

Keen to hear your thoughts after driving it for a while. Ours is all I drive now, other options in the fleet just feel so unrefined to drive.

Will check my stash when I get out of hospital, cheers.

Thanks team. Odds of getting wet will be very very slim. Dry weather car and it will be tucked with fuse box. Example photo above. I have the ratcheting crimps which seem pretty solid. Have same setup in other car for years. But figured I'd see if anything inherently wrong with the setup before using it again. 

Was looking to use spare fuse box slots, but doubt id have the correct fittings to slot in.

The vacuum setup on the carb will already blow your OCD socks off if you happen to pop the hood.

Pretty effective at creating more work for owner I imagine if you forget to tell the tyre guys or similar.

Wheel clamp your own car perhaps?

I was looking at some JDM (SSR) nuts to replace my flaking chrome garbage nuts. They come with lock nuts, but nothing a hammer and socket won't beat. Not parking in dodgy places will hopefully remove a lot of the risk,

Power for amp and stereo. Any reason to get proper fuse holders over just insulated (with added heat shrink on each spade) spade fittings onto fuse? Fuse holders are relatively cheap (though I'd have to go Narva not Temu, same same I'm sure) but they all required connections to different wire sizes and I have the wire to do the whole lot the same gauge. Low requirement 10-15A(ea) not at car to confirm.

So yeah anything wrong with that connection type? Both will be secured at battery so pretty well protected. 

So yeah $25 well spent or is this fine:

No can do Harry, plates pretty full. Ken one year though.

Try NZ Impers, on Facebook.

2 hours ago, ul9601 said:

semi-related, how much of the guard has to cover over the tyre/wheel for it to be legal. most guards are widest at the top and tapers in down at sill level?

Measured from top of arch as far as I know. Won't be many arches that don't curve inward. This part of the PDF covers bolt on flares, but if if you just have unmodified body, then measure the same way and should be good. I'm sure Clint will confirm yeah / nah.

https://www.lvvta.org.nz/documents/infosheets/LVVTA_Info_05-2020_Tyre_Track_Protrusion.pdf

this one shows factory body better vs tyre tread, only shows front/back profile with top of arch used as reference

https://vehicleinspection.nzta.govt.nz/virms/in-service-wof-and-cof/general/tyres,-wheels-and-hubs/tyres-and-wheels#tab2
 

3 hours ago, Metalhead96 said:

Dunno if its come up before but i read on the lvv fb page that someone said that guard rolling is no longer legal in regards to wof? Reason being that it "structually affects the vehicle body" and thus is now a cert issue? 

Unless it was posted by someone you know isn't an idiot... then take with salt. Front guards for example tend to just bolt on, so I can't see how they would link that to being structural.

That said, people will probably ruin guard rolling too, by taking the piss and they will have to bring in rules.

Had to flare mine to get enough clearance through full suspension travel for my cert. Didn't even come up as a mention when I explained how I got the clearance. Double skin in rear of mine so fold it over doesn't really change much. Front couldn't do much as bolt on single skin so weak as fuck arch.

Keen for your timing brains. Thanks for offer on burger but I pretty time poor as well tonight. But keen for some sharns for a bit anyway.

Edit: oh lol, well if it can't be looked at tonight that's all good if you happy to short term lend it while I work out how such things work.

Does anyone have a timing light / the knowledge to check my Rolla if I drag it along? I have no idea what I'm doing so haven't solved my dieseling problem. Will just hang out pre burger as poor lol.

Is it 7 usually? I can't remember.

Yeah one of those helmets would do the trick for sure. I just rolled 18V fan blowing all the goodies out of the car and outside the environment. Can't really justify such luxury when I only weld once a year on average.

While painful to weld upside down, inside a boot, I never had any issues with plain wire + gas. I wouldn't do that with flux wire unless I was going to drink a lot of milk afterwards.

Pretty sure any EV 3501kg or heavier will still be exempt too. 

Personally, i'm just going to install a massive coil under my Leaf for charging, then install some wireless bits. 

Quote

Battery electric vehicles (BEVs)

Powered exclusively by electricity, and plugs in to charge. 

I will then be exempt too. 

I just tried to pay for RUC and you can't until April. Was only a practice run for late May, but thought i'd see what it says.

https://diecastsociety.com/ignition-model-new-nissan-primera-p10-118-143/

None would be my guess. I think I've seen mention of no RUC for <1000kg EV so probably same for petrol. My guess is they'll take ages to sort RUC for everyone so you should be good. Why they didn't just copy paste for all vehicles I don't know. Such a mixed bag when all vehicles use the roads the same.

Only have to buy RUC by 31st of May too, so won't be doing it anytime soon. That's how I read it anyway.

PHEV to pay less RUC. From what I've seen (reddit so must be true), they fudged the numbers and because they were rushing it through it was too late to change it back. Well they tried but got denied. A win for those with PHEV

https://www.rnz.co.nz/news/political/512095/government-agrees-to-slash-road-user-charges-for-plug-in-hybrids

Change of heart, yeah right. Rushing things through and not checking your numbers.

Missing my point really. You are typically limited to 50kW draw at most chargers. So add to that the small battery capacity in a Leaf, even more so a worn out one. And charge time to hit 80% isn't long. 

Problem is, if all of the misinformation goes unchecked, it just drives more EV hate. Like you wanting special chargers for cars you don't like. Anyone can hog the charger, a typical leaf won't take longer to charge than most other EVs. 

So yeah I will put money on my Leaf charging faster than anything with a 60kWh battery or larger, at your typical charger which, in my area, maxes at 50kW. Maybe your area is all 350kW big boys.

My total DC charging time is 28 minutes in the last five months, so I don't think it's me hogging them. Too expensive to hog one even just for fun lol.

What battery size was that EK?

My leaf is now ~15kWh, I never take it below 20%. If I was to charge 20-80% I would need 9kWh. So around 30 minutes at my reduced rate of just over 20kW. Best case others can charge at 2.5x that at my local chargers. So 22kWh or higher charge needed will take longer than me. Yet in your world I need a special charger lol. See how that doesn't add up yet? Hate old EVs if you like, but let's not pretend it's based on the fact they take longer to charge if they are being charged considerately like everyone should. We know how people are though, so that will never happen.

Tl;Dr

Old EVs charge fast enough and offer great acceleration, smoother driving and a quieter environment to commute in than other options. For less money. They aren't for everyone though.

You'll always get some wanting to get that last bit of range. But for the majority of cases, a Leaf will charge faster than whatever you were / are driving. So maybe it's YOU who needs the special charger lol. I haven't seen anyone going for that 100% fill yet. Mainly people just parking their EV in the park because it's close to the door and not even plugging in. Why not plan ahead with your range? I've never needed to plug in publicly to get some more range, just done it because why not. That and to check my DC charging actually works since I don't use it.

Just up the charge cost after 80%, that will stop people doing it. Although I can stop mine at 80% and so it will still hog the charger if I lock the cable.

Yes. It ruined my perfectly good petrol car. They don't warn you that will happen. I'm not talking about my garbage Corolla either lol.

54 minutes ago, ajg193 said:

Heck that's expensive. At what point does it make someone an inconsiderate prick when their worn out old car is blocking a charger for a long time due to reduced charge acceptance?

Yeah 80c/ kWh, so a worst case scenario. As for blocking the charger, just as likely to be X, Y, Z electric car parked there hogging the spot. A Tesla is going to take longer to charge than my leaf at 50kW. Cost wise it would currently be a little over half the price of driving my petrol car. Add RUC and about same price. I always charge at home though for max savings.

That one looks to be working at least. The closest one to me that is free (not that the one pictured is, sharn ahead), is always broken... go figure. Always says its live and available and has a 1/10 score on the plugshare app. It's annoying as its at the warehouse so I can easily kill half an hour in there and get half a fill up for free.

The pay ones are always good to go. $3-3.50ish for ~30km for me. I have two transactions around that price because it tends to put in 4-4.5kWh in the time it takes me to grab something in supermarket and be on my way. I can only get sub 50% of what the pump can pump though because worn out battery life. Can get free at my local supermarket, but need to BYO cable. Given the cost of the cable it would take me a long time to recoup costs due to onboard charger being limited on AC compared to DC which is straight in the veins. 

I guess no benefit for them to do so since they can't do the work and get the upsell. Compared the normal garage where you get a list and say getterdone.

34 minutes ago, xsspeed said:

no im not sure at all lol

Let us know how you get on at the diesels this weekend.

If a HKS coilover'd Note is a shitbox, boy have I got the wrong idea. Might have to keep the wheels unless you want to pay Clints beer tab for a while. They look good to me, maybe a new colour would change your mind? Are you sure it's not a midlife crisis car?