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Posts posted by Jeffs_Emporium
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So after setting the gear lever to specific heights it seems I have all the gears but in the wrong orientation. Reverse is where second should be (closest to steering wheel) and first being closest to dash board. Also having some Clutch problems. When I push the pedal in it loads up the engine? Trying to think what could be up with that
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The workshop manual has references where to set the neutral position of the gear lever in relation to distance forward from steering wheel and up from centre of hub so I'll make a start with that. I hooked reverse last night where 2nd or 4th should be so that's promising
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It's a bit of an illusion in this pic, there's a hump in driveway between front and rear wheels. But yeah this is torsions jacked back up and steelies/stock tyres to get on woolf's hoist also and the reason why I've messed around so long to keep engine as high as possible
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Just dragged it home from woolf mufflers. He's done a tidy job of the sharp bends to get by the k frame and just hooked into the 5k muffler to get me going for now.
Trying to actually drive it im having some issues with gear selection and a clutch sounding noise. I just recieved the workshop manual which shows me where to set the colum lever so will try that and see how i get on with selecting 1st. Feels like im trying to launch in 3rd and cant find reverse. Hoping i havent kooked release bearing size or anything.
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The nz made hyperpak module
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Big push again this weekend to try get this done.
-Clock installed and wired up
-cigarete lighter changed to one with green halo and fiber optic to ashtray (need to connect to headlights still)
-Old dash installed.
-365mm Nardi classic installed with boss kit pinched from my gx61.
-Alternator wiring I thought I had sorted but not.
-Floor shifter seat cover fitted, way more clearance but still needed to slice a bit off the front carb and cut and re-weld engine mount to drop the intake side. This has also helped level the Gearbox on its mounts (it was tweaked before)
-16" m&h electric fan trimmed up to fit into shroud, its huge but fits shroud nicely. Also it's worked out that it's offset to the exhaust side which will help blow exhaust heat out of engine bay and not blow shit through the carbs Hopefully.
Still waiting on those cooling lines, need to hook up brake vacuum and exhaust is booked to be connected this Tuesday.
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Decided that since I had my money back from parts van I should invest into changing radiator bottom hose to the correct side. I also had them size match to the 4ag as there was a 2mm variation between motor and radiator. Quick plumb up and I am happy with my investment.
Of course i need to add my inline remote filler into the top hose mix but you get the idea.
Also dropped the heater pipes down to same guys to get them where I want without unnecessary hoses. If it works out they will just go straight across back of engine bay to join either side and one running parallel to the back head outlet.
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There weren't issues with the oil pressure and handbrake light I just hadn't hooked them up.
there is a problem with the charge light but it's related to my alternator wiring I think (still need to delete the 5k voltage regulator also) as there is a loud humming from reg when key on. Need to sort this and finalize the fuel pump and electric fan override switches that are already wired in then I can put one of the dashboards back in.
Coolant pipes and exhaust are the only remaining jobs that come to mind.
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Rev counter dash has 3 plugs
My one has 2
So I traced all the copper tracks and made a list where the pins needed to move to in the 3 plugs. All of the wire colours except three where actually the same. Everything works except for three things.
Charge light and handbrake light, oil pressure light.
Good to see the fuel level has come up to same spot as other dash as ym30 van seller mentioned a problem with fuel gauge.
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Digging this up looking for a bag for bc coilover conversion for front . I've already spent the coin on crack testing and inserts etc so it makes sense to retain it all and swap spring for bag.
@cletuswhen you say most of the items from China end up going in the bin is it the quality or is there a vital component they are missing?
I've read the recommendations on who to talk to in nz but I like to research as much as possible before bombarding someone with questions over the phone.
Ali express has this ae86 kit which would be similar to what I need. Pretty sure my car has same ID rear springs as well.
I would like to slowly buy reputable components to undertake this myself.
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Not too sure on which dash to use. I think the square one suits the build better but some clown (me) got overspray on it when I was tidying up corrosion around windscreen. There's also the colour difference. The dash is actually the same it's just the speedo surround that differ which is interchangeable and the padded insert on passenger side top.
Not shown in the photo is the centre dash mounted digital clock which came in the ym30 which I am actually fizzing for. I distinctly remember daily driving this as a builder trying to wrestle my oversized cellphone out of my short shorts or shouting at the apprentice to see what the time was.
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Undertaking the speedo swap into the tachometer dash was a bit of a piss around. Needed to swap the higher km face onto my 169km speedo unit because they are different shape for housing and different needles as well as the ym30 having the left side indicator light there. There were spacers pushing the face out on the km36 dash where the ym30 one had a clear plastic panel to distribute light? Along with this I had to swap the mechanism to reset the trip meter as this is slightly offset between both units. I had to discard the 100km/h chime as the km36 unit didn't have the mechanism built onto speedo.
You can see the black plastic spacers either side of the needle. I tried to put the higher km unit back together to go into the km36 housing but I would need to Dremel some of the housing out for the chime mechanism/cbf.
Put Back together.
Sadly the clear plastic is pretty badly scratched on this one, I would need to heat up the glue to separate the fascia from the plastic which is not a priority at the moment. The km36 housing can sit on the shelf for a rainy day to undertake this.
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And V6 in all the America cressida pages
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Jesse's 1981 corona mark ii grande discussion
in Project Discussion
Posted
https://www.izanami-wheel.com/en/product/pillowballuppermount/