Jeffs_Emporium

Doing a bit of maintenance on paint work in spare timePlaying around with different grille. Kind of like early grill with late headlight combo(top) but it will require cutting the grille which I won't be doing to my mint oneTrying on Mark III 8j B typeOther than that lots of cleaning and polishing paint work.

Gave the early mark II headlights and bezels a bit of a birthday ready to go back onOriginally from my first gx61

Have wanted a Mizuno Works wooden shifter for a long time but decided it was money better spent elsewhere for now and made one. I had some kauri or rimu? recently machined for a furniture project that I ripped into 30x30mm strips 250mm long. I planed the corners off to get as close to round as possible before centre drilling- apparently not- the base out to 12mm and winding in a m12x1.25 bolt with hex head cut off and put the cut off end into my cordless drill It took 3 attempts to get one usable due to drilling the first one wayyy off centre and in a straight line and splitting the second. Ended up with 185mmx22mm finished size and have just applied some linseed oil which is a fairly close match to my steering wheel. Wanted to put the other half of my factory stereo back in but seem to have misplaced it so swapped out the silver cassette bottom half for a pocket instead. The black ties in with rest of interior better than the silver anyhow. My only other plan for interior is to have a leather shifter boot manufactured. Sadly the place who did my last one has caught fire back in October and doesnt look to be reopening

What are the legalities behind changing my headlights, grille and corner lights from facelift: to pre facelift: They don't bolt up to factory holes so had made some brackets out of 3mm aluminum flat bar

Interior all back together. Next on the list is finding a suitable double din / two single din unit to ditch the current mismatched setup (have misplaced other half of stock radio) Also try sort out aircon (1geu pump has a v belt pulley and doesn't interchange with the ribbed 1gge pulley and both pumps have different fittings for the lines) Purchased a different offset pair of 14x8 ssr mark III to hoard and try find other singles to make a set. Also have this single ssr tomcat center I've had for a while in hopes of finding three more

Had a mobile auto electrician come around last Friday and spend a few hours diagnosing the problem. When I had run the itg and igf wires from ecu to igniter via existing wires in engine loom for some reason I spliced into them and left them running to where ever they went which was connected to +12v. Snipped the two wires going to somewhere and got a few splutters from turning over. Flipped dizzy timing 180° and it fired up. Engine runs well with no leaks, went for a quick drive about 20kms and all seems OK. Booked in for cert when quarantine is lifted, still need to either buy positive offset 7.5s for rear or just cert on 7s all round as I have clearance issues on the rear.

Have found a few peices which were wrong. Although I hooked up e²² and e¹¹ to the original engine body to ecu e¹¹ this pin must have connected to ground via AFM or something as it was not earthed. N/sw is connected to ign on (is a manual ecu anyway) Iscv and injector resistor power are hooked up to ign on also. STA is connected to CRANK via starter motor switch Still not getting spark. When I connect a multi meter to IGF and IGT with key ON I'm reading +12v? Diagnostics code is coming back as no ignition signal also Is there someone in Central Auckland I can pay money for a house visit to help find the issue?

After deleting the auto shit I've lost about 10 pins from body plugs. NSW I hook directly to earth? -IDL branches into body plug, what should this be connected to? -#10 branches into another pin on body plug, what should this be connected to? -Power to iscv is also on body plug ( 12v key ON?)

Will unplug injector resistor and start injector time switch and try again

Yeah have a good earth from battery to block and body and on rear of head as per factory. And checked IGSW, +B, +B1 is receiving power during start and crank. I did have MREL hooked up to 12v feed also but have rectified that. Stripping back the engine loom from ecu as far as I can to identify what all the pins on engine harness to body loom plug are. Do injectors have a constant 12v then the ECU feeds a ground to operate them?

Radiator hoses have come back as NLA so I'm keeping the ones above for now. Changed oil pressure switch from light to gauge type and its reading full as I crank over which is a good sign. New genuine water bypass pipe and clutch fork boot arrived and have been installed Have come so far but seem to be stuck on a few small things. I cant seem to bleed the air out of brake master cylinder in the car and trying to do so is messing up the exhaust shroud coating - may have to remove and bench bleed. When I put fluid in the clutch master cylinder its pissing out the connections of the new hard line, is this likely because I dont have the end of hard line absolutely square to fittings when tightening? 1geu spark is triggered directly from distributor, 1gge spark is triggered from ecu using IGT and IGF pins. You cant use 1geu igniter on 1gge engine so I had to collect my twincam one which I had gifted to a friend and wire up however I'm still not getting any spark If I have the key turned to on and connect the IGT and IGF via the two pin plug I've wired in the coil emits a huge spark but if I turn over with key with a lead in coil no spark happens. I've printed out this 1st gen pin out diagram and written below in pen pin out for my 2nd gen engine for anyone else who needs in the future I dont think there is a discussion thread for this project so if anyone has a clue with any of this stuff and can lend some advice feel free to pm me

I have the IGF and IGT connected to igniter via a two pin plug. If I connect these with the key switched to ON a large spark emits from the coil, does this confirm igniter/coil is functioning as it should and I should look at the lead from coil to dizzy? Injectors dont seem to be firing

This is a print out of pinout of gen 1 1gge with afm. I have written what my gen 2 map sensor engine pins are below in pen. Ones I'm unsure of are PIM, VCC,

Yeah igniter has ground pin inside to igniter body which is screwed to a steel clip which clamps around coil to body

I have taken the lid off the ecu to identify the pins. I did remember that IGT for 2jzge was 5v as you mention. I'm fairly certain all ecu ground are attached how ever I do not have the pin out for the body plug on the engine loom.

I cant seem to get this to spark from the main lead going from coil to igniter. Ive now used the correct igniter and took the cover off it to identify pins. I'm fairly certain I have wired the ecu correctly and have used the engine manual to check voltages across certain pins. The igniter is triggered by the ecu via IGT pin and also has IGF. I seem to have a constant 12v on the IGT when the ecu is on, I would have thought it would be a pulsing 12v as the engine cranks?

Have checked toyodiy for what models I could pinch igniter from and it lists same one being used on 1geu as 1gge so now I'm double confused

Yeah you're right @kpr I've just answered my own question. Both igniters looked the same so I went with 1ge since it plugged into my factory body loom and gave away the 1gge one. Looks like i need to go shopping

Need help with wiring igniter on 1gge. Top two wires went to dizzy on 1geu but I'm thinking I need to hook these up to IGT and IGF on 1gge ecu? How do I know which one goes where? 1geu wiring diagram IGT,IGF definitions

To do list: Radiator hoses 34mm 16571-70040 top 16572-70040 bottom ordered Igniter wiring Install water bypass/ lower outlet Clutch slave install and bleed Bleed brakes Wheel alignment -1.5° camber max 4mm vacuum hose 1m intake to charcoal canister. A few things will be revisited once going/legal. The block I used had been sitting for about 15 years so had quite bad corrosion in water galleries which even after being acid dipped and blown out is still present. For this reason I've chosen not to rebuild radiator untill ivd run it hot and flushed it as many times as possible. You'll also see a horrid top radiator hose made from two with a shoddy joiner. This came in parts bin with one of the three engines I had and after trying about 10 places to match one up I'm not suprised. Have ordered new genuine top and bottom hoses from a tc24 gx61 via amayama but there is 18 day wait time - if they dont come back as NLA. Getting pretty close to start up!

Home made SST to hold crank pulley to torque nut

Driveline all back together with fluids, fender mirrors reassembled and installed, put the front sway bar back in and inner guards. Then tried to bleed brakes and realised what the tubes were for that came with new master cylinder which I threw out yesterday, called it a day.

Thanks for that! Is there a calculator available for figuring out drop if swapping to 8kg? Insert is hitting original stub axle inside tube and have tried making springs uncaptive and adding keepers but compressed keepers are raising car as well

Will changing from a 10kg 180mm long coilover spring to a 10kg 250mm long coilover spring lower the car more as each coil compresses X amount or am I having a brain fart?

Fender mirror bases painted in factory 035 white