Jeffs_Emporium

Ordered the clutch hardline and fittings from here 

https://nz.gsparkplug.com/25ft-x-cupro-copper-nickel-brake-pipe-3-16-10-x-male-female-nut-10mm-x-1mm.html

$49 delivered for 25ft of ³/16 tube with 10 male and 10 female m10x1 fittings.

Had a break from the tedious jobs and whipped off the cam covers for a refresh and to delete the writing from the top of them 

have just hit them with a filler primer to try make them a bit smoother and will decide on colour overnight/ see what I have available...

Whipped the dash out this morning for a couple of jobs-Swap out cable clutch pedal for the hydraulic one I have along with the 3 outlet reservoir

-Remove the leaking heater core to source replacement/repair

-Browse dash cluster wiring. 

None of the nz spec km36 came with a tachometer but the ym30/40g and cm30/40 did. The diesel rev range on the cm one is maximum of 6k rpm and have a turbo light which is no good to me. The ym has a max of 8k rpm (only 5500 redline) but it will do

Looking at my existing cluster I have a 10 and 12p plug. 

This example on Yahoo Auction Japan has 3 plugs (10p,10p,12p) 

I'm guessing the extra plug is likely the extra warning lights along top for the more luxury optional extras. Here's hoping the board is simple enough to just trace what I have and make it work. In the past year of browsing they have all been ¥15000 but this one above is up for ¥7800 so I may as well give it a punt.

Have been giving this a good nudge since Wednesday. 

Mounted the fuel pump where coil was with a STA parts alloy bracket (overnight delivery thursday). Spent infinite time online looking for ¼npt to barb fittings for 6mm hardline to pump and pump to 8mm fuel union on webers. Ordered 3 different sets from aliexpress as I found better ones (elbow) with shorter lead times on shipping.

cut back the factory loom and have enough length to relocate coil and hyperpak to where airbox was. 

Had a bit of a win on parts scavenging when I realized a cut up loom that came a recent 1gge purchase has lots of the plugs I need (alternator, distributor and fan switch) 

It's been good to find and order a bunch of stuff I need from internet (I seem to have a real battle finding specific shit)

Awaiting carter oil pressure safety switch, ⅛bsp brass tee with ⅛npt allocation for carter switch. Also have electric fan relay kit on order and a couple 250 series male/female 6 pin plugs to hook up hyperpak as well as fuel pump relay which I'll run off the carter safety switch. 

Need to order a suitable coil and a singular 400mm electric fan to manipulate into the factory plastic shroud (I still need to overcome one outlet on radiator on incorrect end and the lack of filler as it was on 5k thermostat housing)

Put 12v to the L wire with key on and it's flicked off battery light so looks like I'm good 

Picked up the IG pin in correct place but no voltage on the S, and the L wire is a heavy duty cable thicker than rest that goes to a small box before going to battery

Someone on here know if my 5k would have had externally regulated alternator or internal? Tried testing the 3 pin plug before putting 4age plug on and not getting the results listed for 4age alternator 

Is there such a thing as npt - barb fitting with a reducer? My fuel pump has larger barb outlets than hardline on body and carb fittings. 

Chasing ¼npt - 5/16 and ¼npt - 15/64

Asked a few cnc places around onehunga to no avail. One of them recommended burr engineering who is doing it for $100

Someone out there is OS land who can take 5mm off either side of this for me? 

have tried a few engine shops but costs to setup in Head resurfacing machine at 10x 1mm passes bring it up to $300+ gst 

4 minutes ago, tortron said:

Come use mine if you want. Double flare kit

Please and thank you. It says you can't receive messages on here?

Today I absolutely wrecked my fuel hard line at rear of car to the point where I need to trim it back and start again. Are cheap flare kits a no go? I only want to do this job once because scorpion back and 30 year old shit in eye sucks

Had a win on the illusive 4age engine to gearbox braces last night on yahoo. 

I'm still torn about what to do with exhaust manifold, i have spoke to someone about shortening the headers and it looks like the pipes are too close to each other to fully weld. 

A factory ae86 cast manifold is going to cost me about $400 from Japan 

Or fujistsubo do a few options like this 4-2-1 stainless which I could trim or remake the lower section

Or this 4-1 also fgk stainless which looks like it joins higher up from the secondary pipe they show in photos. 

Both of the fgk are around $¥75,000 so not cheap but probably a bit cheaper than having a set made plus the logistics and time of transporting vehicle 

Did a trial fit of a 7.5 a type which has the same wheel bolt face to outer lip dimension as the wider pair 

17 minutes ago, Brock-Lee said:

Oh lordy those wheels look amazing!!

 

Such a cool project dude.

 

Also don't give Robbie credit for those centre caps. He is just the man lucky enough for me to lend them to him.

 

I didn't realise you were getting the replacement caps CNC machined and thought you were getting them 3d printed.

 

Please let me know costs involved to make 5 of them and I will pay you 1/5th for my single one, otherwise the cost of borrowing one to reverse engineer is far too high.

I'm happy to wear the costs as I would have had to buy another whole wheel with centrecap from YAJ to get one to copy so it's a small price to pay. 3d printing was twice the price of cnc machining believe it or not. 

2 hours ago, Snoozin said:

Damn I'm all full of regrets for selling my BR-X now. Tasty as.

Test fits are definitely welcome, would look awesome on your red machine 

180541156164327236

September 26