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flyingbrick

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Posts posted by flyingbrick

  1. its very good. sets very fast.

    I'm currently using it to bolt down new machinery at a waste water treatment plant- drill holes into concrete then chemset in pieces of threaded rod. They ain't coming out!

    -Nathan

  2. lift springs also have a firmer spring rate than standard from my experience- but usually you will have a selection of rates to cater for different vehicle setups. You should be able to find heavy duty lift springs suitable for towing.

    Of more importance IMO is your tire selection while on the road. mud tires and tires that are bias ply (eg creepy crawler) can wander all over the place and drive/stop like shit.

  3. with safari/patrol, vh45 bolts straight to 4.2D motors AUTO gearbox using the v8's bellhousing.

    You can also put vh45's auto gearboxes internals into the 4.2D auto box which gives you extra clutch packs. I've done this.

    Obviously have to make engine mounts so its not "bolt in"

    To have a manual box behind a vh45 you need to make an adaptor plate.

    the other safari gearboxes other than 4.2 D and P are small and weak and puss. Don't buy one of thise vehicles thinking that its a good starting point.

    35's fit on a safari/patrol with a bit of guard cutting and welding. 37's don't really fit without A LOT of guard cutting and welding. I know as I had 37" creepy crawlers for mine. you really need atleast a 4" lift to run with 35 or 37" tires.

    Hope that helps.

  4. finalised details of this purchase today. I'm excited so am starting a thread!

    ae85 Trueno hatch.

    I need to find someone with a 4wd in hams who can help me trailer the car out of a steep property. :?

    so.. the car has no motor or gearbox, not much of an interior, a broken front windscreen and some rust under the rear bumper and rear wheel arches- though the rust is no where near as bad as that on some 85/86's currently on trademe for silly prices.

    The car comes with a carbon fibre bonnet and some sweet old impul hoshino(or something, cant remember) wheels.

    plan is to get everything sand blasted and etch primed then repair rust slowly as time and funds allow. I'd like to fit TRD N2 flares and cut out the rust from the rear guards in the process. Unsure about motor, maybe motor and box out of FD rx7, mounted nice and far back. Firewall has been bashed to fit a 20v so this will need to be tidied.

    Paint will be either satin black or white.

    Wheels will be whatever I can find that fits my budget and the wide guards. There won't be any tire stretch, I want as much tire in there as I can fit.

    I'm undecided about suspension but thinking either bc's all round or bc's up front and coilover conversion in the rear with reinforced strut towers.

    I'd like the car to be as light as possible so will remove all remaining interior bits and pieces and run only whats necessary. I found a fibreglass dash on trademe that will work well. Front window will be demisted by small electric heaters. Difficult part will be to keep it comfortable. Carpet weighs next to nothing so that will be staying. Not sure about seats, something cumfy but which suits the car- fd buckets?

    This project will take forever- I have a wedding to pay for in a year.

    lingling should be doing this!

    -Nathan

  5. line pressure makes the disks clamp together harder and faster. Modern boxes have variable line pressure for comfort reasons- at low throttle with high line pressure the box will slam from gear to gear. This is not bad for the box as its preventing clutch slip and clutch slip is bad for a few reasons.

    There is a website somewhere showing how to pull the soarer auto valve body out and shim/plug the accumulators (like a piston with a spring behind it which removes spikes in the fluid pressure)and also how to raise the line pressure by drilling holes and shimming regulators. I suggest google.

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