flyingbrick

Totally missed that. Fuck thats expensive! I guess it was a little while ago that i went there but at the time it was the cheapest place by miles!

honestly. go get a quote from the muffler shop.

alright. This has got to be my favorite THING THAT WOOOoooorks (tried to make that last bit dramatic sounding).

Bench testing automotive electrical equipment is sometimes needed for various reasons. Also- sometimes you may have an old head unit sitting around that needs 12v and something capable of supplying a bit of current to run it....

old PC power supplies are CHEAP and have a 12v feed. People throw out old computers and parts these days so easy to come by.

Open up the case and use some sidecutters to trim all of the wires you wont need off the PCB. There are like a bunch of 100 wires in the loom but you'll see that they all terminate in like 3 different pads- each pad has a different voltage. You may need to use a multi meter to work out which ones which but all the PSU's i've had in bits were labeled which made it easy.

leave one wire for your 12v- add a ground wire if you need to (cant remember if they have one in the loom) and you'll need to short one of the wires in the loom to ground to turn the PSU on. This wire usually gets a signal from the motherboard (if i remember correctly) to make it turn on.

I think this wire is green usually but you may need to do some experimenting. The only live wire when you initially plug the PSU into the wall is probably this switch wire- so you can probably just short each wire out on the case of the PSU one by one until you see the cooling fan turn on then either fit a wire and toggle switch to turn it on and off- or just permanently ground it so that you turn the PSU on or off by using the wall switch.

Also- they are reasonably safe and pretty hardy. I've never blown one up but have over loaded them plenty and had them trip out- you just have to turn them off and back on again to reset.

Good to have on anyones workbench!

The muffler shop. the big yellow muffler shop. Down by the railway on killarney road.

I had some resonators added once and it was surprisingly cheap. Was very happy.

yeah i vote lay shaft(s).

I think thats the only way this is ever going to work.

Man, you are an animal!

How long did it take you to strip all that paint off?

Pics of you covered in dust + mess made?!

edit: how did you remove the lead?

very cool.

People make auto transmissions out to be much more complex than than they really are. When you break it down and look at how they work its all actually very simple.

The biggest hurdle would be working out which solenoid does what- and which combination of clutch pack solenoid energizing will give which gear. I'm guessing a 5 speed will have one extra solenoid to control the selected gear than your more common 4 speed (which has just two usually)

I'm rambling, sorry. Kinda passionate about these things.. dunno why.

putting the line pressure at 100% full time does not stop the clutch packs disengaging. The other solenoids divert this line pressure to engage or disengage your clutch packs. You are right, would be a bit rougher to drive- but easy to feed a manual throttle dependant signal to this solenoid if you want to make it more cushy... You may find that in order to stop clutch slip with those turbos you will need full line pressure as soon as you come on boost (but even at low throttle positions)

Line pressure is entirely dependent on engine load usually- line pressure only reduces at partial throttle to make shifts more comfortable and line pressure is increased as throttle is applied to stop the clutch packs from slipping.

Gears change at WOT with full and constant line pressure. They have to otherwise the clutch packs would smoke themselfs.

That is unless the new 5 speed boxes operate in an entirely different way to the older toyota boxes as found on mk4 supras etc.. which is possible.

Have you considered one of the older toyota 4spd boxes? they may have manual valve bodies available and more information around about their modification - i know there is DIY info on raising the line pressure via drilling restrictor holes and shimming accumulators to help them handle more power in drag racing situations etc etc.

Hopefully not telling you how to suck eggs, just trying to be helpful in showing that there are ways without spending huge money on a controller.

I bet thats sooooo smooth and quiet.

Could just use it as a manually shifted auto?

Find out which solenoid bleeds off line pressure and leave that one alone ( so its at max pressure all the time.. good) and then wire the inhibitor switch and OD button on the shifter to operate the solenoids directly.

Different kettle of fish entirely i know- and only a 4speed auto box- but i did this to my nissan safari and it worked very well.

It would not take a genius to then build a circuit to switch the solenoids through the correct sequence using just two buttons (paddle shifter or buttons on steering wheel). You'd just have to move the shifter manually to enter park and reverse.

Just throwing ideas around.

Hopefully nobody has said this yet.

Your issue is that this is not a die grinder.

Its a cut off saw.

Thanks for the help, :

SNAP!

I did read your post, saw the pic and thought you were confused.

Looks like a bolt thats had the head machined and the thread turned down to fit into the spindle?

What is the bit you have in the die grinder? I've been looking for something like that lazily for a little while to avoid buying a die grinder and a little 3" cut off saw.

Tool shop down the road told me they don't exist.

Hopefully nobody has said this yet.

Your issue is that this is not a die grinder.

Its a cut off saw.

http://www.trademe.co.nz/building-renov ... 326707.htm

Die grinders will not have enough tq and will probably spin too fast for one of those disks.

I have that same saw in the link and its great, has had tons of use.

Also, the very cheap trademe air tools (from my experience) are not as good as brand name big dollar stuff.... but they are more than good enough- especially after some tickling.

My $15 trademe die grinder went from 19,000rpm to 27,000 RPM after some porting. Certain flap wheels explode. but needs a FARKLOAD of air. Still nowhere near as much TQ as my other die grinder *can t remember brand*

Cant help on that one- but if you want to clean rust from chrome, degrease car parts or melt your face off.... Coke works well.

or bamboo!

Where would someone find this bike parts store?

what does double butted mean?

make the bozo pipes out of PVC or some kinda "soft" plastic that will deform when hitting someone.

make them fake so that they look like an exhaust but keep them away from the actual exhaust so that they dont melt.

Paint them silver or black or wrap in tinfoil or something equally as shit.

call them rod holders as you like fishing. Claim that they are softer or as soft as the bumpers of your car so are the least of someones worys when being hit.

profit.

-Nathan

edit.

if the oil coolers gonna be fake, may as well go the whole hog, right?

wow wow wow wow.

how did you get those brackets made? Very impressive.

And yeah, you cant just burn out the bushes because they're contained in a steel sleeve that needs removal too, which can be an utter prick of a thing to do if they've rusted in slightly.

Its not hard.

The most commonly suggested method of bush removal that i have seen is to burn them out.

If you need instruction there are like 10 vids on youtube of people doing it.

I've done an SW20, an aw11 and a nissan safari truck and had no problems at all with this method.

I don't recall the AW11 or SW20 having steel sleeves in the bushes- but if they did i would have knocked them out as I did with the trucks radius arms- with a punch after first cutting the sleeve with a hacksaw. It takes about 30 seconds of cutting to get through it.

I assumed (maybe wrongly) that the 86 would not have this type of bush?

for some reason all chicks who drive beetles seem to be hot. I say do it.

Nope- a bbq will not affect the temper of the steel

Its a wonderful feeling when you come back to your arms and all thats left is a pile of steel with no bushes and a bit of dust.

effortless !

ebay. NZ crowds seem to charge far too much.

I put a set into my MR2 and the difference was HUGE.

Do you have an old BBQ a-ling? they work great for burning out the old bushes- just sit the arm in the heat and let the rubber burn out by itself.

Alternatively you can squeeze most bushes out using a 3 jaw puller and some imagination... but this is tricky and hard work.

OR just take all arms to an engineer and get them pushed out using a press. Just warn them that if they bend any of your arms you'll get the asian mafia onto them.

Installing the new nolithane bushes is EASY as they are usually all in two halfs a bench vice makes some of them go in easier.

keep paint handy as the bbq will burn all the paint off.

I am unsure how adjusting pinion angle increases traction........................... you dont adjust antisquat by doing this.

beep beep beep boner alert, boner alert.

More info is needed for sure. Very very very cool.

Andy- there are quite a few 86's in the world with 2jzgte's. None like this tho that ive seen!

holy crap man, huge pulley.

so so so so so cool.

You should chat with that fulla on here in auck who was wanting to do fab work for cash- get him to make you up a stainless heat shield. I'd help you out if you were down here- dont have a 4age near me unfortunately.

This is the best thread on OS.