flyingbrick

i love this shit.

just about to create a FS thread.

I would def either go to a 46 front or 14 rear in your case. Mine would feel wrong if the gearing was any easier.

I haven't had to go up any hills yet tho!

Anyone after a normal looking white road bike seat? brand new.

aahahaha, im just uop to the 3rd vid of theirs. quite a good watch

no fail vids, etc, just things that might teach someone something....or vids which are at the least relevant and interesting. Car related only.

building a rat rod- shows how to form the cowl etc. Fuck tis cunt has a sweaty neck!

QTBBZAm5uD0

he has multiple parts to this- click other user vids.

iv heard about those! deff on my to-do list!

can't believe how great the wheels look on that thing!

did y get the rc car off tm?

most of the braking is done by the front brake on any bike so it's really not a problem. It has a new shimano front caliper and new pads so it stops very well. you grip the stem with either hand and squeeze.

it's not fixed gear. my other old bike will be when finished ( welding the hubs together about can't ratchet)

this bike really boogies when you stand up and start pulling on the bars- and the gearing isn't so high that starting off is hard. I'm using 16t rear and 46 front. I may tweak this later when I'm more fit!

for a budget bike build using trademe and eBay parts I'm def calling this a success only thing left us to add a little color to the bare frame ( thinking of checking out the warehouses Duraseal range ) and making up a custom lower stem bush so I can use my carbon forks

Oh, and i just did a few km on it- max speed 41.5km/h!

Been away for ages so haven't had a chance to finish it- till tonight!

Getting a single speed sprocket to fit the rear campag hub was IMPOSSIBLE- even nothing available overseas at the moment.

So i took a shimano sprocket- bored it out and shrunk the sprocket onto a boss with a few welds to make sure it wouldn't come off- then drilled and tapped the boss for 4 grubscrews to lock it onto the hub.

It works AWESOME- is mega solid and was easily adjustable during setup.

Then I took a bar-end brake lever and cut off the bit that goes into the bar. Then i driled and tapped an M6 hole in the front of the handle bars/stem and then holes to route the cable down the stem and out the side.

Hope you like- I tried to do something a little different with the brake than what others have done with their single speeds.

this is def right up my passage. what a sweet shell- where would someone find more of these?

great start to the project!

take them outside, throw onto back lawn and soap/ scrub the carpet using dish washing liquid, car wash, bug off, etc etc etc anything you have. works well for zilch money.

then use carpet/ vinyl dye to spray black. it will look like brand new carpet

just take stuff into an engineering/ fab shop.

suuuuch a good looking car

everything outsold the mr2 in America

wow, cool bike man!! if it were me I would just take off the bulky indicators etc fit small led ones. remove rear mud guard and chrome grab handles. fit a way smaller front guard. Matt black everything incl wheels and olive drab the tank and other blue bits.

just my opinion, keep in mind that iv never owned anything this cool

I reckon her dad was keen as it has no back seat.

just saying!

if you give it a 3rd go... use a plywood base and ply hoop behind yr butt. behind that use a block of polystyrene. glue it into place and then file it to shape. one or two layers if glass on top and then wrap in ur vinyl.

love how ur going so far though!!

I'd buy a matching numbers chrome bumper c3 corvette and pay someone to throw a 600 cube turbo big block into it with side pipes

ok so let's say you have an 80s car with a urethane bumper which has sagged a bit. it's supposed to have flat surfaces that follow the curves of the bonnet and fenders but kinda has starved horse syndrome. just enough to be noticeable. is there a filler flexible enough?

install it nicely using black hose and tidy wiring and I doubt they would notice. it will always be hard to hide the sensor unit because if you start going too long in pipe work reaction times increase and you have to dull down the gain controll. easier IMO to just run a simple manual in-line boost controller. spray it Matt black and put ur under an existing engine part or engine manifold.

it's gay but no point complaining as it won't change anything.

I have done a few. very easy. take the plastic parts and cut out the centre of each piece to just leave the surround. make templates out of card to get size and shape of metal panel right. you want the new panel to be slightly smaller than the plastic frame- spend time getting the shape perfect so that it looks professional. transfer shape to thin aluminum sheet and then cut out with aviation tin snips. file off any burs and lumps. very carefully hammer out any distortion from cutting. bend and shape new panels to correct shape using your hands and anything else. use a pencil and mark in 5 to 10mm in from the edge of the panel around the whole perimeter. using a mallet and wood give the whole perimeter a slight rearward fold so that when you attach panel to the plastic the edge is forced into the plastic without any little gaps. then carefully mark out an equal hole spacing and rivet to your plastic frame using small aluminum rivets. drill the holes in the plastic larger than the holes in your panel so that as the rivet expands it does not over stress it's holes and break the plastic. cues tin snips to cut out gauge holes. start with a drilled hole and then open to full size with aviation snips. take note of which side of the snips turns the material upwards ad this should always be your waste metal.

primer, spray black, boom.

from memory the aluminum I used isonlt 1 or 1.5mm thick. more than strong enough.

hope this helps.

stay away from Waikato sand blasters. Iv lost count of how many jobs they have fucked up for me at a previous job i had.