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Posts posted by flyingbrick
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Has anyone used or converted an old arc welder into a scratch start tig?
a scratch start tig is the worst abomination on the face of the planet.
the first thing you have to do before you start welding with one is fuck your electrode. i fucking hate them.
a few tries and Iv had no further issues using one of the scratch start ones we have at work.
just gotta be patient.
the biggest bastard is the manual gas knob.
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those black ones don't fold do they? weird
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well then he needs to size his turbo respectably.
I agree with you, don't want to argue
just saying its not a necessity ( but then neither is a 2j trueno I guess!!!)
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Good work Bairdy. What fuel are you planning on using?
Have you seen this?
That's a stock 2jzge+t on e85 through a big stalled converter, so probably making ~700 at the fly. Pretty impressive, but probably not what you are going for.
Also 2jz's love head porting, they did one on PF and it came on boost ~600 rpm earlier and made a bunch more power.
Conclusions:
2JZ's are easy to get inlet flow up to a point, after that getting more is a prick - exhaust flow is harder to get on stock valves, bigger valves help a lot.
Port runners become a restriction with larger valves, significant work is required to get them flowing - exhausts need a LOT of metal removal.
These engines will respond well to more lift than stock, any more than a basic cleanup on the intakes is not worth it unless bigger cams are going to be used.
For stock cams you'd stick with stock intake valves - extra lift is required to get the most from a larger valve.
Exhausts will benefit from larger valves, even with stock cams.
This head has now gone past what you would call a street port & is verging on fairly extreme.
Now I just have to finish it!
TK
http://performanceforums.com/forums/showthread.php?67216619-2JZ-head-porting/
IMO I would exhaust ( pun not intended but I'll take it) all other options before spending loads if doh on head porting. they already flow enough for more than what he will probably be able to use realistically and they are not poor flowing heads stock compared to other engines out there.
remember it has two extra cylinders to breath through for a given hp than a 3s.
just IMO. I had a tt supra and head porting was the last thing needed from the research I did.
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That is fucking awesome
agree! what did it cost to have the casting done? you just made the plug? I'd never have thought if taking engine mounts that far, simply awesome.
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If this wasn't so expensive it'd be perfect for going on a truck chassis.
Theres a second one on tm for like $140!!
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You can already buy tamia datsun 240's that look better
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too small I reckon??
I'm in the process of sorting my shit so I can have the second one. mine is an old rusty toy truck on lunchbox chassis
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i like your pony tail and i think you should paint it mazda rx8 grey
agree about pony tail only.
put some decent bars on it ( clip on's? is that what the short ones that bolt to forks are called?) and don't refit that horrible bad end mirror.
also trim front guard and remove girder. leave starter off- sweet weight reduction.
and take off EVERYTHING not necessary for one person to ride it.
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I dont understand how u can fuck up with a holesaw? iv done plenty and never had a problem?
middle drill but holds holesaw in one place so it can't fuck off sideways.. or are you guys trying to use holesaws without that middle drill? haha
I have also done a starter hole then done rest with a jigsaw with metal blade. worked mint.
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wow, had forgotten about the lunchbox and midnight pumpkin. iv always wanted a Baka beetle. local hobby store had one when I was very young- I hassled
t dad for it for months. when he finally gave in we went down and it had been sold. ended up with a quick drive jeep wrangler which was alllll good.
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holesaw. just use a decent one that's made to cut metal not wood.
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td42
this. with a turbo
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wow. could turn that into a sweet beach buggy
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my mrs and I laughed so hard at the lack of stickers on non visible side. such an Asian thing to do
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just about to create a FS thread.
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I would def either go to a 46 front or 14 rear in your case. Mine would feel wrong if the gearing was any easier.
I haven't had to go up any hills yet tho!
Anyone after a normal looking white road bike seat? brand new.
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no fail vids, etc, just things that might teach someone something....or vids which are at the least relevant and interesting. Car related only.
building a rat rod- shows how to form the cowl etc. Fuck tis cunt has a sweaty neck!
QTBBZAm5uD0
he has multiple parts to this- click other user vids.
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iv heard about those! deff on my to-do list!
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can't believe how great the wheels look on that thing!
did y get the rc car off tm?
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most of the braking is done by the front brake on any bike so it's really not a problem. It has a new shimano front caliper and new pads so it stops very well. you grip the stem with either hand and squeeze.
it's not fixed gear. my other old bike will be when finished ( welding the hubs together about can't ratchet)
this bike really boogies when you stand up and start pulling on the bars- and the gearing isn't so high that starting off is hard. I'm using 16t rear and 46 front. I may tweak this later when I'm more fit!
for a budget bike build using trademe and eBay parts I'm def calling this a success
only thing left us to add a little color to the bare frame ( thinking of checking out the warehouses Duraseal range ) and making up a custom lower stem bush so I can use my carbon forks
What are these Seats?
in General Car Chat
Posted
stupid and dangerous soz