flyingbrick

6 hours ago, tortron said:

they have like a double wall construction so tie wireing them on doesnt really work, they are way thicker than normal grips

I did see a comment from someone that these have a groove for tie wire, but I think I may have used that groove as a cut guide when I trimmed the ends off. 

1 hour ago, anglia4 said:

I had to liquid nails the grips onto my last bike too to get them to stay. 

I was glad I sold the bike before ever having to replace the grips...

Yeah I'm just happy I found something to stick them down securely. The Inner sleeve is a shit greasy plastic that the superglue had zero adhesion to. It just flakes off. 

I think I'd have died of old age before these grips will need replacing from wear, knock on wood lolololol

Installed some Oxford heated grips- the grips and controller/wiring is all quite nice but the included tube of superglue is a complete waste of time as both grips came loose before I'd left the drive. 

These are not like regular grips and have a hard plastic inner sleeve which does not shrink against the bars like usual.

I pulled the grips off again, roughed up the bars and plastic sleeve, then glued in place with a thick smear of liquid nails. Completely the wrong application for that glue but it seems to stick like shit to anything and everything, and the grips sure don't feel like they are ever going to move now. 

Let's hope the glue doesn't soften with heat..  Lol. 

The controller has some voltage sensing thing too. Its connected direct to the battery but will not operate unless the motor is running. Guessing they need a minimum of 13v or something to turn on.  This is a great feature because I'd say they could drain a battery pretty quick if the motor wasn't going. 

Check out the huge factory bar end weights which screw into the solid aluminium bars. They entire handlebar plate thing is also rubber isolated-lots of consideration given to comfort and one of the many reasons they are a bit tubby. 

Which part is bespoke? the input to the gauges or the gearbox output?

Hey man. This does not answer your question, but I think SpeedHut sell adaptors to fit most gearboxes that convert mechanical gearbox output into pulses to suit their speedo's (and probably many others). Might be easy compared to factory stuff (Or exactly the same, no idea)

23 hours ago, Kerry-TGI said:

Sorry to sneak in here but could you elaborate on these rolok discs and what tool you use them with?

Yeah so you buy a backing pad to fit either your standard grinder (has a nut on the back) OR a die grinder (has a little shaft on the back) 

Grinder one looks like this.

Then you buy either sanding discs like this

Or softer abrasive discs like this.

The benefit is that there is no center boss to get in the way so the pad can be put flat on the surface. Very good and much better than flap discs for keeping anything flat. 

Yup he's amazing. Never seen someone work so much

Create a frame to maintain alignment and add tail fins to ensure correct orientation. 

Then drop from hot air balloon 

hey old comment now but you said you wanted to get some flap discs.

They are good, but for clean up after welding like that, Rolok discs are heaps better because they let you put a flat rotating face down onto the flat panel. Seen tons of bits fucked by people with flap discs when they remove/gouge the original steel!

Cool project overall, looks like you are doing a bloody great job. 

Oh man, I had a catch up. Saw the rust and was like omg... And then super happy to see you fix it and get it all back together ASAP. Well done! 

Damn that is beautiful stuff! A few mistakes but who cares, I'd bet you can fix those bits with nobody noticing unless you pointed them out. 

Also, it's OK if the hole is too small. You can be upset when it's too big lol.

Any imperfection in the sand is only going to make it look more authentic! bloody amazing, so now you have to transport it carefully to the foundry?

I enjoy your videos, wish you put up more showing the final product. 

I need to see the guitar body and whatever those ply bits assemble to make

Do you have to worry about your components looking too perfect compared to the originals? 

wow, that DR looks great!!!!

Hows it go on the road compared to the GN? be lots more usable with the extra capacity?

Wow!!! That's a damn tidy one, looks great!!!!! 

I'll take a look at mine tonight and see what information I can give you about that shaft. 

Yes

You'll be fine mate

I'd be very surprised if owning a harley is grounds for dismissal.

1 hour ago, MopedNZ said:

Quite. Fastest 'in their day'. But they're still around as a new model now. 

100kph in first without a struggle. 300kph is possible. I've ridden 4-5 of them and every time after I get off all I can think is fuck that. Be careful Mr Nathan! Cool bike though. 

The crazy thing is how much torque they have at low rpm at very low speeds, such a massively tractable engine. Pretty mind blowing. 

Once iv had a bit (a lot) of seat time I'd really like to become a regular at the drag strip. Not interested in racing others times, just myself. 

But that's a long way in the future. 

These things also have some great tuning software available.. I'd love to play with that too in the future. 

Pretty much just want the bike to run and do the fun things that I was never able to finish the hz or beetle to do- and those projects have relaxed significantly as a result. Sold most of my LS stuff and really just want steel wheels and a diesel in the ute, and something vw and slow in the beetle. 

Hahaha. Yeah the way I see it- could have sped on the ktm, and could even speed in the Triton, but with the odd exception in very remote locations, I'm kinda past that and have been for a long while. 

I think iv had one ticket in the past ten years and that was for 102 with a trailer LOL. 

Mostly just wanted it "just because". Pretty much a tick off the bucket list. 

And because Ghost Rider. 

Edit. On a more serious note, REALLY looking forward to chewing some kms to visit friends and family around nz

Spent an hour today making a tail tidy. Could have ordered one but aside from costing $40 off Ali express it also would have taken 6 weeks to get here... And broken arm so what else am I gonna do. 

Basically just removed the stock mud guard, cut it down Heaps using a renovator, bent it Using a lighter with its button cable tied down and then drilled some holes. 

Still need to buy a nice compact numberplate light. 

Before

During

After