brocky41

You realise it's fraud eh?

Give Marty or Callum a call at Volkspower - tell them i told you to call (Brock - may not make a difference lol) - they should be able to source the part as well ask tell you the best way to remove / refit. also you have conveniently taken a photo of the engine code which they may need (AUQ).

Have seen a few VW things being done around town and im always like "you had to remove all that to get to that?"

Ill stick to my old LD28's lol

Hope this helps

As far as i am aware it was late 06 onwards BF turbos, have the tyhpoon bottom end stronger than BA

What about even cheaper EB-EF SOHC for more OS - still does 10's lol

Its just the 185/60r13 tyres - those wheels etc are for the 25 which will be lowered - dads just old ........school and slapped the wheels on for a laugh.

Heres a couple of better pics

This would be pretty chur if it was dropped a bit

This is my Dads car, He is also restoring very slowly a KE25 coupe.

If anyone wants to make a serious offer on the Ke70 let me know - its low genuine Kms and 5 speed. (would come on factory steels.

Great car dude - we used to run a Laser Sport (same car basically) at the Hawkes Bay Car Club - was great, we had a side exit pipe with just one coby hotdog muffler and it would scream to nearly 8 grand.

Good little handler too

Wow. Topical. Today I drove the viva to blenheim. Actually hannah drove and I tuned and tinkered with some new maps. Everything went great and we were happy. Even Kevin was happy. Car running well and idling sweet at around 14.

We got to blenheim and it's hot like only blenheim seems to get. Too hot for bare feet on driveway hot. Park up at Olds and chill. 15 min later I think I'll move the car round. But now it's all lean and wants to stall. I end up having to dial in a bit more fuel around the idle cells. Damn. I check for vac leaks but nothing. Then notice how noisy pump is.. like aeration. Surge tank fucking hot. Remember reading sheepers latest post about changing his return to go back to the main tank. Mine currently returns to the surge tank.

I can change this easily when home anyway. So I go for a walk to get an ice cream and think about it. Later with car cooled down a bit I start it up and as I guessed it's now idling a bit rich. Could hot fuel change the ratio that much. Certainly can't help.

Btw - the iat sensor is a plastic gm one mounted in the alloy tube insulated from the engine by the big silicone bend into the tb. so I don't really think it's heat soaked sensor problem. But also worth checking.

JUst pulled this off the net - looks like theres heaps of Economy Foamers out there (ill be one soon, maximising economy on an old LD28).

Anyway - could it have vapour locked? I know many Holdens, when they dont start, will shut off injectors when hot if you hold the throttle to the floor while cranking.

I have found that heating gasoline to 180 deg. F yields about a 10% return improvement in fuel economy. Detonation threshold seems about the same for a given octane value. Greater tendency to vapor lock during hot restart.

Most OBII ecu s have the ability to recognize this condition and will keep injectors closed until engine restarts.

May take 2 or 3 tries but it will fire up. Heating intake air also improves fuel economy but I have found a greater tendency to go into detonation especially when ambient

temps. go above 60 deg F. If you run a dedicated water or water/methanol system you can effectively supress detonation with even the lowest octane fuel.

Reply With Quote

Moving forward like that with bugger all changes means youll be up the front in no time - great work.

Painting the frame? Leaving it to Patina or waiting till the end of the season to pull it all apart

Awesome - I brought the Green 330 260C from that family a few years ago (which i later had to sell due to house buying commitments - great bunch of people.

Water pump been out on this engine - fins tend to fall off the old ones - also wire up an aftermarket guage - even a $30 repco one just to see where it sits actual temperature wise.

If your gonna buy a new one ive found most of the alloy ones "problematic". They are light and go up fast but seem to give out more often.

Ive had and used this wayco one for three years no issues. Gets left under cars up, and generally has had a hard time - the nylon wheels make them alot quieter than steel rolling across the concrete.

http://www.wayco.co.nz/w1001b.htm

We sent one to be serviced once that was around 3 years old at the time and all it needed was an oil change (probably didnt even need that)

They are a little heavy to lift into the car etc by yourself (put your back into it). Pretty sure they have just a horizontal bottle jack in them which you can buy separate but Ive never had to at work

Highly recomended - the new red ones even come with a rubber pad lol

Anyway just my 2 cents worth.

Seriously how do you get so much work completed - lol - awesome work.

mmmmmmmmmmm - dig this wagon so much.

+1 for mag and turbo - go see CUL8R (chris) or kane

Finally 2nd Page lol

So i found my arms and disk hubs etc i already had and swapped them over, also got given a "vicious" LSD diff head although unknown what its out of as has the finned rear plate with 2 mounts rather than my 4.

Have also managed to cut the 4 subframe mount bolts out of the laurel so that can go to scrap now.

Scored a rear set of HSD S14 coilovers too - Brand new (previous owner only used the fronts), 16 way adjustable and body adjustable.

Next is to bolt some wheels onto the subframe and see how wide we gotta make this thing.

//oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/24645-brocky41s-1978-datsun-120y-aka-tufdat/?hl=tufdat - PROJECT DISCUSSION.

I remember one crash - heres my vid just, to remind you lol - also just saw that was in the '09 (seems a long time ago now).

But Boxing on all smacked up was BOSS

Im loving the "have a go at anything attitude" - as above very inspiring.

Nice Ride - and still has solid bones by the looks (well especially when i look at some of the ones ive owned).

There is an a12 (mostly complete) that i have here, that one of the guys from the datsun club owns - ill find out if he wants to sell it. Was a runner in a 1200 then removed for hot A15.

You could also start making your own Waste Vege Oil Fuel for fun lol

You'd need a return line if your carbie doesnt have one - I was thinking about doing the same with a Datsun B310 or 140J or similar with an LD20T from a vanette - smoke from the tyres and the zorst lol.

This is a 195/50r15 Yoko AD07 on a 15x7.

Youll also find in the same size different brands are physically bigger or smaller too depending on where the tyre manufacturer measures their sizes from.

The Yoko and Bridgestone RE11 (which i put on after the Yoko's) are about the same and physically measure around 205mm wide whereas the Dunlop direzza of the time was only around 190mm tread edge to tread edge.

IIf you go for this size the good brands should be cheaper than the sizes you have currently priced.

Hope this helps

WHat about 195/50r15 - almost the same height and readily available

^ nah thats another dude he sometimes comes along to auckland meets

It probably is my old car, i sold it to a guy in Auckland (James i think) - here it is before it went as i kept the wheels. Hes since had it fully resprayed in the same colour too.

Thanks guys.

I'm not %100 on the radiator notch. I think I'll cut it off again this weekend.

Cheers Chris I might have to take up on that.

Someone else on here should buy that Bristol, maybe some one with some land near Oxford?

Yea i still need you to get yours going to scrape my driveway out lol - i quite like this one too, because roof and turbo

http://www.trademe.co.nz/business-farming-industry/industrial/earthmoving-machinery/bulldozers/auction-949956062.htm

Too spendy for me - ill stick to starting new projects and not finishing them.