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MACKAZ

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Posts posted by MACKAZ

  1. I want to buy but its cheap, almost too cheap and Im weary.

    First impressions are normally correct.

    Welcome to DM Clutches

    We are the New Zealand Dealer for F1 racing clutches.

    We speacialise in replacement and high performance clutches for most makes and models please ask.

    Brands include F1 racing,Excedy, ACT, Sachs ,LUK

    This auction is for a stage 3 6 puck ceramic racing clutch for a CA18det s13 200sx 180sx silvia etc rwd

    --------Kit includes----------------

    F1 Racing Stage 3 Heavy-Duty Pressure Plate

    F1 Racing Stage 3 Copper Ceramic 6-puck Disc (225mm, 24 spline)

    Release Bearing

    Pilot Bushing

    Alignment Tool

    Installation Guide

    ---------Specifications------------

    The 6-puck copper ceramic (also known as MIBA) disc features 12 high-coefficient friction pads that are resistant to slippage and ensures long lasting life. The heavy-duty sprung center unit boasts heat treated springs and retainer rivets for the maximum power and durability. The F1 Racing pressure plate features special single diaphragm design to increase clamp load. It features induction hardened diaphragm, CNC machined castings, stronger drive straps and rivets. F1 Racing pressure plate provides smooth and precise feel with easy modulation. All F1 Racing pressure plate is load tested on a special testing tool for quality assurance.In order for these clutches to perform to their optimum they must be bed in over 1000kms and installed on a machined flywheel

    These clutches are rebrandedDaiken Exedy clutches Save hundreds on the retail price.

    These clutches have a warranty against faulty workmanship and materials which is held by the manufacturer this doesn't guard against incorrect installation and failure to be run in.

    just random spelling mistakes make it sound dodgy to me. Nuthin wrong with the product though. bro had one of these setups in stockcar.....

  2. LT1 is corvette/camaro 350, normally a 4 bolt mains jobbie with the sort after angle plug heads. Myself I would slot either X88 302 chev (pretty rare but fuck they scream) or 327 just for pure revability.

    RTS suspension mod not worth the effort, besides your going to uprate anything that is RTS related when changing springs and shocks.

    Best upgrade for HX is installation of nolathane or similar polyurethane bushes. Made a massive difference to my HZ 308 ute..

    Think I got a broken HZ monaro bottom lip somewhere....

  3. Yeah spose your right FunkmasterTed. I think its dependant on the club that you run for I suppose. Times have changed considerably since i last run in production saloon, But club I ran for bent the rules to suit a certain few. I built a RX4 Mazda and was building a V8 Sl/e Commodore in secret for the season. Once started winning in the 4 they banned it, saying that rotaries were out, so I sold it. I checked about legitamacy of V8 prior to build with confirmation of legal. Took it down first meeting, eclipsed the field, then they banned it and allowed rotaries back in. Bah thats just Northland fuckers for you.

  4. holden v6

    FUCK OFF!!!!!! OUT with you.

    *Points.*

    Seriously they are a fucking heavy lump....

    id rather stick to the blue oval camp..

    Good boy.

    New Duratec or Explorer 4.0l V6 would be sweet......

  5. [ Camry V6 into RWD format.

    Callum

    3VZs are a POS motor. Tendency to blow head gaskets/porous heads. Epically expensive to fix also. That is all.

  6. Yup Point taken, but most spaceframes have eff all direct airflow due to chassis crossbracing, bonnet edge which HAS TO extend over in front of radiator and shocks are normally in the airflow path.. When the old man bunged a 308 on a 180b years back he had a custom rad made. Thing never ever got hot but rad cost megabux

  7. Boe. Your speedway car..... I used to race XC 3.3 in "production saloon" (lame grade) 200 x-flow 3 on the tree. My mum raced it too. Could whip V6 Capri. Won the Northland champs in it. Anyhoo a tip. If you run counter clockwise heres a fucking great setup....Take the lowering blocks out as well as 2 leaves. Lower it 3" left front 4" left rear and 3" right rear. Gas axe sag stz(DONT CHOP THE COILS AT ALL)......Leave right front stock height. Lengthen Rh lower arm by 60mm. Crank right hand radius arm right forward left hand toward rear.

    If you set it up like this ,Yup it will look fucking stupid, but can GUARANTEE it will handle.

  8. Previous racecar had 3l Essex in it. Revved like fuck. Caution is required in the oil pump drive as it is a hex drive from bottom distributor gear. Have tendency to round off. Also have a tendency for soft valve springs. Makes em easy as to valve bounce......Parts are available but a wait time may ensue. Good engine otherwise

  9. MY race car had Triumph radiator, cooled the old 253 and my 4.0l Falc motor. Admittedly after 8 laps of 7000 rpms it was a little hot but did the job well. Spam but most of early Kuriger spaceframe stockcar chassis fitment of Triumph radiator was the norm, and theyve cooled Rover/Ford/Holden V8s for years in stockies.

  10. From experience:

    ATF (for p/s, auto if applicable)

    1l Engine oil

    Fanbelts relevant to car. (put new ones on and biff old ones in boot)

    300mm 5/16th fuel line and 6 hose clamps

    8-19mm metrics or 1/4-7/8imperial (whichever applicable)

    A jack with the FUCKING HANDLE!!!!

    Wheel brace.

    Stubby phillips/straight screwdriver

    normal of above

    Vicegrips (for impromptu non shoe wearing b-owts :lol: )

    Insulation/duct tape (for imprompt rapings :lol: )

    Most of this will fit in smallish tackle box for storage save the jack,handle, or cross stz wheelbrace.

    This is my RACE KIT scaled down to suit roadcar.I would imagine that it would cover 95% roadside scenarios.

    Proper Race kit includeds 566523832 spare wheels, FBS (fucking big sledgehammer) and a pair of stilsons.

  11. TRUE!!!!! Thats just fucked production saloon and streetstock grades, been against EFI being allowed since day one. Another thing that is fucked with speedway saloons is the 20yr age limit.......but speedway is now very ghey in my eyes, OS fo' life now.

  12. As an ex standard stock driver Ive been around speedway all my life. Basically if you want to run this car its gonna have to be run at a black track. Its no good for production saloon as it is over 3.0l and EFI, same rules apply to street stocks. Possible solution if allowable under your club rules is to bolt an EA 3.9 manifold (bolts up no mods at all), an XF weber is a bloody good carb on one of these donks, put an XD 4.1 electronic dissy in it by taking bottom gear off original dissy and pinning it onto the XD one and bobs your auntie carby non computerised 4.0l, as thats how they run them in standard stocks any hoo. Edit just been to find the link for rulebook but my old link is now 404.

  13. I rolled an ER185 .. OH THE SHAME!

    Haha my first bike was a GN250, dropped a valve at about 120kms, welded up piston, gave it a low compression squish chamber head job (read dremeled the fuckn dents out of the head) couply second hand valves and bobs a fafafeni rebuilt.

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