-
Posts
13236 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
79
Posts posted by cletus
-
-
Even I, as a rampant petrosexual, can see why people like EVs.
- 3
- 6
-
- Popular Post
- Popular Post
New springs made it more consistent,although slightly slower. Different wheels and muffler off when it did the 11.35 previously
11.5@118 every pass
I have turned the 2 step rev limit down slightly as it was having trouble holding on the brake which I can probably fiddle with to improve
I'd like to get it down to 11.0 so it's more competitive at the night drags
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=kdfGgT2pKHw&pp=ygUMVW5kZXJjYXJ2aWV3
- 30
-
-
Oooof, that is good
- 1
-
It looks like they are asking you to check if the play is within manufacturer specs
Ie they don't want to make a decision themselves
- 2
- 3
-
I've had a ba ute, ba wagon, and currently have a fg sedan
I've liked all of them , apart from rust.
Rust is the reason I got rid of both the BAs and the FG is showing signs of that becoming a problem
brakes always shudder, fg is on its second set of new front discs and it's doing it again
It's a shame the bodies are a bit garbage, as the engines are bulletproof. I've never done anything more than oil changes . Wagon trans took a dump at about 250k
-
- Popular Post
- Popular Post
-
You should have bought a twin pack of Briggs v twins to fix your mower and compressor
- 1
-
Axle shortening or joining, if it's just an axle, should be fine if it's done well and with a suitable weld process etc, take notes of what you do, what filler rods etc
The exception to this is jag rear ends, this is because the driveshaft is the top suspension arm. These need a more specialized process because a failure would likely be way more badderer
Battery- if your fuel system is modified then the CCM requirements apply, so battery has to be isolated from fuel in a non conductive box.
I have had a customer with a stainless battery box who didn't want to change it, line the inside of the box with rubber sheet so it was no longer conductive between the battery and everything else
- 3
- 3
-
Diff specs is the one in drury, I used to deal with a guy there called Brian a million years ago and I think he's still there,he's a GC.
Steelie gears I've had 2 lsd diffs built by him and he was really good, once you get past the grump he was actually very helpful. I went to see him about the diff in my plymouth and he said he was not interested in modifying diffs any more hed rather give me $100 and tell me to fuck off he'd lose less money.
Took it to Lee instead ,he was good but fitted the wrong set of spider and side gears which I swapped out myself
- 1
-
looks lovely. shame you have to sell it
-
Are you storing it in the ocean?
- 2
- 1
-
Yeah good place to start, I've got a drum mc on my car and it had an issue with the brakes staying on slightly, popped the residual pressure valves out and smoooooth sailing after that
- 1
-
-
More positive caster makes a big difference, a lot of cars of this era had minimal or even negative caster settings from factory, with wider wheels and tyres they are not great to drive
- 1
-
Thats based on pretty economical cars though
my work car gets 14.2l /100 so I should be getting a Christmas card from the govt for all my contributions
- 2
- 1
-
- Popular Post
- Popular Post
1 hour ago, dmulally said:With the influx of cheaper EV's and competitive loans for new ones, is there still a market to convert classic cars? Or are battery prices in NZ still really offensively high?
Very little as far as I'm aware, I could count on one hand the amount of enquiries on certing ev swaps that I've had
My opinion -
Anything classic that's worthwhile spending a lot of money converting to ev would likely be devalued by doing so-
an rx3 would on paper be the perfect candidate for an ev swap, the electric motor is the same shape as a rotary, does a million rpm like a rotary, the car is lightweight, look cool, rotary engines are getting expensive, use lots of fuel and are loud. But nobody would ever do it because, if your buying a rotary, you want it for the experience, not to save the environment or be cheap to run
If you convert a cheap classic, due to the cost it doesn't really stack up either, it doesn't really make sense to spend 40k or whatever it costs to ev swap an Austin allegro
This might change in years to come as donors become cheaper , but even that may not come to much really, as the battery is still the most expensive part and also the part that fails the most so generally a cheap leaf is no good for a swap, as the battery will be chooched
Just my observations/opinion anyway
- 7
- 3
-
Can only have a quick release if it's a competition vehicle with cage/authority card, or in a special case like a tiny sports car where you need a removable wheel to get in /out
- 1
- 2
-
- Popular Post
- Popular Post
28 minutes ago, Vintage Grumble said:On my way home the other day, I noticed the local Catholic church now has a couple of charges in the car park. Seemed a bit odd to me. Also a bit biased, 148 years of petrol engines, and they never installed a pump?
That's a strategic move for sure.
"Oh you're charging your car? You'll have 25 minutes to hear about our lord and savior, jeebus "
- 4
- 15
-
- Popular Post
- Popular Post
Maybe the reason classic cars don't have a lot of crashes, due to mechanical failure, is because they are reasonably safe, due to having someone look at them regularly to make sure they aren't falling apart
- 10
- 5
-
It's due to some small technicality of the rules , it happens with Toyota as well, there's a company called TECS that does mods usually for disability transportation
I think because it's technically a different company even though it's owned by the manufacturer, when the vehicle is modified by that company, on the Japanese paperwork there's a symbol missing , which means the vehicle is modified = cert required when it comes to nz
- 1
-
11 hours ago, xsspeed said:
Why are they modified? I see one on trademe up here but it looks like it was a 1.2 according to engine build plate, are they all swaps or that one might just be suss
Nissan has a bit of history with doing this- there was a n14? pulsar that had a sr20 put in place of a sr18, there was also the 260rs stageas, probably other wierd nissan models as well.
I believe they take a regular production model and autech (back then) or nismo( now the same company) modify it
That's why they have the 'wrong' engine code on the build plate
If you buy one you want to make sure it's certed, or when you go for a wof you might get asked for it later
- 1
- 1
-
It did not look particularly quick,
But everything else seemed to be running in the 11s so not a good comparison
- 3
-
1 hour ago, xsspeed said:
Have certed 3 of them as they are technically, modified . Rear discs, engine, suspension, wheels and trim are different.
Not particularly fast but as far as late model cars go , pretty fun to drive with a proper manual box
- 1
Seat belts that fail to retract.
in Tech Talk
Posted
That's a pretensioner belt
Should replace it with the same thing so the airbag system still functions
If the belt is changed to a non pretensioner type the air bag light will probably stay on